Tag: gas

Heat Pump vs Furnace vs Hybrid Systems: What’s Best in Cold Climates?

As energy costs rise and technology advances, more homeowners in Pennsylvania are asking whether it makes sense to replace their traditional furnace with a heat pump — or to combine both in a hybrid system.

While all three heating methods can keep your home comfortable, they each perform differently depending on temperature, insulation, and utility rates. Here’s what Hill Property Inspections recommends you understand before making your next heating investment.

1. The Basics: How Each System Works

Furnace (Gas or Oil)

Burns fuel to generate heat, which is distributed through ducts. Common in older and rural homes. Provides steady warmth even in subzero weather.

Heat Pump (Electric)

Transfers heat instead of creating it. In heating mode, it pulls warmth from outside air and moves it indoors. Functions as both a heater and air conditioner. Efficiency drops as outdoor temperatures fall — but modern “cold climate” models perform better than ever.

Hybrid (Dual-Fuel System)

Combines a heat pump with a backup gas furnace. Automatically switches between electric and gas depending on outdoor temperature or utility rates. Offers flexibility and improved efficiency in variable climates like western Pennsylvania.

2. Energy Efficiency & Operating Costs

Energy efficiency is measured by AFUE (for furnaces) and HSPF / SEER (for heat pumps).

A modern gas furnace achieves 90–98% AFUE, meaning almost all fuel becomes heat. A quality cold-climate heat pump can reach 300% efficiency — producing three units of heat for every one unit of electricity consumed. Hybrid systems maximize both: they use the heat pump during moderate weather and switch to gas only when it’s truly cold.

Pro Tip: If your electricity rate is low and your home has good insulation, a heat pump can significantly reduce overall energy costs.

3. Performance in Pennsylvania’s Climate

Western and central Pennsylvania winters are often cold, wet, and unpredictable — meaning performance varies by location and home type.

Heat Pumps: Ideal for regions where winter lows stay above 0°F. Modern inverter-driven units can still produce heat down to -10°F, though efficiency declines.

Furnaces: Best for drafty or older homes with limited insulation. They provide consistent heat output regardless of outdoor temperature.

Hybrid Systems: Perfect for areas like Johnstown, Windber, or Somerset where temperatures fluctuate. The system automatically selects the most economical and reliable heat source.

4. Comfort Considerations

Air Temperature: Furnaces deliver hotter air (~120°F) than heat pumps (~95°F), so furnace heat feels warmer but may cycle more abruptly.

Humidity: Heat pumps maintain more consistent indoor humidity and can improve comfort during dry winters.

Noise: Subtle hum outdoors from heat pump compressor; gas furnaces are typically quieter inside.

Zoning Compatibility: Both systems can be integrated with zoning dampers or smart thermostats for better control.

5. Installation and Maintenance Costs

In Pennsylvania’s market, a gas furnace typically costs between $4,000 and $7,000 to install. Furnaces tend to have long lifespans of around 20 years and benefit from relatively inexpensive natural gas in most areas. A heat pump installation generally ranges from $5,000 to $9,000, with higher upfront costs but lower ongoing energy use. For those seeking maximum efficiency, hybrid systems—which combine both—usually range from $8,000 to $12,000, reflecting their dual equipment setup but also their ability to minimize energy costs long-term.

Maintenance requirements also differ. Heat pumps require regular coil cleaning and refrigerant checks to maintain performance. Furnaces should be serviced annually, including burner cleaning and a safety inspection. Hybrid systems require both types of maintenance but provide the advantage of redundancy — if one component fails, the other can continue heating the home.

6. Environmental & Future-Proofing Factors

Heat Pumps: Reduce fossil fuel use and carbon emissions; often eligible for federal tax credits and rebates.

Gas Furnaces: Depend on fuel prices and may see regulatory changes in the coming decade.

Hybrid Systems: Offer a balanced transition strategy — using renewable electricity when possible but maintaining gas reliability.

Pro Tip: For investors and property managers, hybrid systems can improve resale value by appealing to both eco-conscious and traditional buyers.

Final Thoughts

No single system fits every property. The right solution depends on your building’s insulation, budget, and energy goals.

If you’re considering an upgrade or unsure how your current heating system is performing, Hill Property Inspections can evaluate furnace safety, duct efficiency, and overall heating performance as part of a full home or commercial inspection.

We can also use thermal imaging to reveal air leakage, duct losses, and temperature imbalances — helping you make an informed, cost-effective decision before or during winter.

Schedule your heating system evaluation today:

📞 1-833-HILL-PRO

🌐 www.hillinspections.com

Hill Property Inspections, LLC is a full-service residential and commercial inspection firm based in the Johnstown, PA area.

Carbon Monoxide Risks: How It Enters Homes & What to Inspect For

Carbon monoxide (CO) is called the invisible killer for a reason — it’s colorless, odorless, and tasteless, yet responsible for hundreds of preventable deaths each year in the United States.

As temperatures drop and furnaces, fireplaces, and space heaters kick into gear across Pennsylvania, understanding how CO can infiltrate your home — and how to prevent it — is critical for every property owner.

Here’s what Hill Property Inspections recommends you know and check before winter is in full swing.

1. What Exactly Is Carbon Monoxide?

Carbon monoxide is a byproduct of incomplete combustion — meaning when fuels such as natural gas, propane, oil, coal, or wood don’t burn completely.

Every gas furnace, boiler, water heater, and fireplace produces some amount of CO, but in a properly vented system, those gases are safely carried outdoors. Trouble starts when vents, flues, or burners malfunction, allowing CO to leak indoors.

Pro Tip: Even small CO leaks can build up quickly in today’s tightly sealed homes with limited ventilation.

2. The Most Common Sources in Homes

Many homeowners assume CO only comes from furnaces — but there are several common culprits:

• Gas furnaces and boilers (cracked heat exchangers, blocked flues)

• Water heaters and gas dryers

• Fireplaces and wood-burning stoves

• Gas ranges or ovens (especially if used improperly for supplemental heat)

• Attached garages (vehicle exhaust seeping through door gaps or shared framing cavities)

• Portable generators or space heaters used indoors

In multi-unit or mixed-use buildings, CO can even travel between units through shared chases or return air systems.

3. Warning Signs of Potential CO Problems

Because CO itself can’t be seen or smelled, pay attention to indirect warning signs of combustion or ventilation issues:

• Yellow or flickering burner flames (instead of steady blue)

• Soot or scorch marks around furnace panels or vent connections

• Persistent condensation on windows or cold walls near heating appliances

• Unexplained headaches, dizziness, or nausea among occupants

• Smoke smell or backdrafting from fireplaces or water heaters

If these symptoms appear, leave the building immediately, call 911, and have the property evaluated before returning.

4. How to Prevent CO Buildup

Preventing carbon monoxide issues starts with proper maintenance and awareness. Follow these steps every heating season:

1. Schedule an annual furnace or boiler service — including a combustion efficiency and draft test.

2. Inspect all vent pipes for rust, gaps, or loose fittings, especially near elbows or joints.

3. Check chimney liners in older homes; deterioration or blockage can trap exhaust gases.

4. Never use ovens, stoves, or grills for heat.

5. Keep flues clear of bird nests, leaves, and snow.

6. Maintain adequate combustion air. In sealed basements or mechanical rooms, add venting or louvered doors.

Pro Tip: Negative pressure from exhaust fans or tight building envelopes can reverse flue draft — a common cause of hidden CO migration.

5. Detector Placement and Testing

Every home should have at least one carbon monoxide detector per floor, ideally near bedrooms and adjacent to mechanical rooms.

• Avoid placing detectors directly above fuel-burning appliances, which can cause false readings.

• Replace detectors every 5–7 years, or per manufacturer’s instructions.

• Test monthly and replace batteries each daylight saving change.

• Interconnected or smart detectors are best for multi-level or multi-unit properties.

6. Inspections & Professional Testing

A professional home or commercial inspection can reveal conditions that promote CO buildup — including improper vent pitch, disconnected flues, blocked chimneys, or shared ventilation paths between appliances.

At Hill Property Inspections, our team uses combustion analyzers and infrared thermography to spot exhaust leaks, confirm vent integrity, and verify proper airflow in basements and mechanical rooms.

We also check whether detectors are properly placed — something too many property owners overlook until an emergency occurs.

Final Thoughts

Carbon monoxide is silent, but the risks are very real. A few minutes of maintenance and an annual inspection can protect your family, tenants, or employees from one of the most preventable household hazards.

Ensure your home and family are safe from carbon monoxide and other unseen hazards this season by scheduling a thorough inspection or walk-through consultation:

📞 1-833-HILL-PRO

🌐 www.hillinspections.com

Hill Property Inspections, LLC is a full-service residential and commercial inspection firm based in the Johnstown, PA area.

Fuel Sources – Pros & Cons

A frequent question we get from our home inspection clients is how much their heating and cooling costs might be. Answering this question falls outside the scope of our job description, so we refrain from answering it directly, but this article will cover the basics to assist anyone trying to figure out what they can expect to pay for various types of fuel sources in their current or future home.

In the current era, renewable sources of energy (solar, wind, etc) are becoming more and more popular, but non-renewable sources are still much more prevalent – at least here in the Northeast. When I refer to “fuel sources,” I mean energy sources that can power systems, and heat is a particular focus since a heat source is required for a home to be safely habitable. You’re probably familiar with at least several of the most common fuel sources, but there are some that are common in areas that you may not even know exist. Let’s take a minute to go over some…

ELECTRICITY. If you aren’t Amish or living entirely off-grid, you’re well acquainted with electricity. It powers your lights, TVs, computers, many appliances and more, and it can serve as an energy source for your home’s entire heating system. A fully electric heating system utilizes electric baseboard heaters, an electric heat pump or boiler, in-floor and/or in-ceiling electric heat, and this type of system is very efficient since all wattage is actually used to generate heat. However, all-electric heat can be quite expensive, the systems can be prone to partial or full outages, and baseboard heaters can pose a hazard when drapes, cords or other items exist above or very close to them as they become very hot. Standard heat pumps are great in the right climate but can become less practical in very cold climates where less heat is available to be drawn in from outdoor air. The exception to the often high cost of electric heating is perhaps the most efficient option of all, which is an electric geothermal (ground source) heat pump, which takes on and disperses heat via the ground where the temperature is more constant – even during winter and periods of very low temperatures. Large homes with a geothermal system often have total electric bills under $300 per month, which is incredible considering that this figure includes all devices and not just the cost of heating and cooling. Another benefit of every electric heating system is a steady supply of power (provided there are no outages), meaning no manual deliveries need to be made to the home. While quite expensive, whole-house gas powered generators can also be installed to provide “backup” power in the event that a power outage occurs.

NATURAL GAS. Generally speaking, if a costly geothermal system isn’t an option, natural gas is typically the least expensive option to fuel most homes. Although not available in some areas, many homes are equipped with a natural gas supply; and like electricity, it comes into the house on a continual basis without having to be delivered manually. A downside to gas is the possibility of potentially hazardous gas leaks, which can be very dangerous (even fatal), although proper installation and periodic inspections can prevent this issue. Not long ago, we discovered a concerning gas leak during an inspection at a duplex that had been inspected and deemed fine just two days prior, and the unit with the leak was tenant occupied. To the credit of the gas company, they immediately owned their mistake and promptly sent a crew out to correct the problem and ensure the occupant’s safety. Despite the hazards inherent with combustible gases, nearly all homes we inspect with natural gas are free of leaks with well installed systems and components, and the low cost and plentiful availability of natural gas make it a great option for most homes.

PROPANE. Like natural gas, liquid propane (LP) is also a gas. However, unlike natural gas that comes into homes in a steady supply, propane has to be delivered. This means the propane level has to be monitored fairly often (usually with a tank gauge or fin), and the service provider has to be alerted when refills are necessary. Propane is usually fairly cost-effective, but it is more costly than natural gas, often near-equivalent to electricity per kilowatt hour, and usually cheaper than fuel oil.

FUEL OIL. This is a type of fuel source that is very common in our area but not at all common in many regions of the country. Like propane, fuel oil has to be manually delivered to homes that utilize it, and the oil level needs to be monitored by the homeowner – typically with a simple gauge at the oil storage tank(s). These gauges occasionally become faulty, but even a long yard stick can be used as a “dip stick” to check the oil level, similar to checking the oil level in a vehicle. Fuel oil produces a very hot heat that many people like, but oil also produces a smell some find unpleasant and usually costs a good bit more than other fuel sources. Unlike electric and natural gas bills that are paid monthly, fuel oil deliveries have to be paid in full at the time of delivery, which makes budgeting more difficult, although service providers nearly always offer discounts for purchasing more gallons at a time (for example, $3.89 per gallon for 100 gallons, $3.69 per gallon up to 199 gallons, and 3.49 for 200 gallons or more). Discounts are also available by most companies during off-peak seasons, like summer, so money can be saved by planning and budgeting wisely.

COAL & WOOD. Although different, these fuel sources are “lumped” together (get it?) because both are solid fuel options and can sometimes both be used in the same furnace or boiler. In fact, even fuel oil can be used in some systems that accept wood and coal, although such systems are rather rare. The benefit to coal and wood is that both burn hot and are fairly inexpensive (especially wood that can be obtained on one’s own property or for little to no cost from a friend), but both are also quite dirty and require manual work to load the solid fuel, stoke the fire and clean the resulting debris. Some people who utilize wood and coal enjoy the labor involved and like harkening back to an older time, but this requires the know-how, skill and time necessary to keep up with this type of system. It goes without saying, but coal and wood require manual delivery, which some find inconvenient.

Regardless of the type of HVAC system you have or plan to install, know that a high-efficiency system will save you a lot of money over the long run. Look for high AFUE ratings (90% and higher) for heating systems and high SEER ratings for A/C systems to ensure more of your money is actually being used to heat or cool your home. Almost as important is utilizing a programmable thermostat – preferably a modern “SMART” model that can be controlled remotely and tracks data related to usage habits – but be sure to actually program and monitor the stat. When it comes to upgrades that improve energy efficiency and have a quick return on investment (ROI), programmable thermostats rank among the highest and are really a no-brainer.

In many cases, homeowners are limited in their fuel options based on what’s available in their area and cost considerations. Hopefully this article has served as a helpful and informative guide as you seek to utilize your resources as best as possible in your own home, and feel free to comment if you still have questions or need further assistance!

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com/

Shared Meters – Look Out!

It’s a rare occurrence, but every now and then we come across shared water or gas meters when inspecting houses. This is most often the case with duplexes or other multi-family properties that may have once been single family homes but were later converted into two or more dwelling units. It’s easier to leave the existing meters in place, along with their main shut-off valves, but this poses a major potential problem that unsuspecting buyers could easily overlook. If the home has been divided and the water or gas shut-offs exist in only one unit, what do tenants who don’t live in that unit do in the event of an emergency? If a water line bursts and the tenant occupying the unit with the shut-off isn’t home, how can the other tenant access the shut-off to prevent major water damage? If a concerning gas leak is detected and the gas can’t be shut off in-line, how can the tenant get to the main gas shut-off to prevent a potential explosion?

At our inspection this morning, we came across a shared meter situation, but the configuration was even more problematic than the examples I just gave. The gas meter and shut-off for the house behind the one we were inspecting was located in the basement of the house we were inspecting (see the image below). The meter was labeled “rear” since it serves the house located behind the home. So, two separate houses with two separate gas meters, but both meters exist inside only one of the homes. Imagine your gas meter and shut-off being located in a neighbor’s house!

Needless to say, this poses a major potential issue. If the occupant of the rear property has an emergency and needs to shut off their gas, they can only do so by accessing the basement of someone else’s home! Again, what if that homeowner is gone or doesn’t grant access to the neighbor?

We contacted the gas company to discuss this issue and were informed that the meters were intentionally set up this way. A reason wasn’t given, but it was undoubtedly done for the sake of ease, and the configuration has likely been this way for some time. And contrary to what you might assume, utility companies are often allowed to set up meters however they see fit, leaving homeowners with little or no recourse.

The buyer in this case wasn’t too concerned that his neighbor’s gas meter was located in his basement and jokingly said they’d just have to be sure to get along well after he moves in. He was very glad we made him aware, though, and said, “Had you not told me, I could have been woken up by a bang on my door at two in the morning by my neighbor wanting to run into my basement and having no clue why!”

In all likelihood, there will never be an emergency that necessitates the neighbor quickly entering the other house to shut off the gas; but it could happen, and both property owners need to be aware and have a plan just in case. So, if you’re looking to buy a home, be sure to check the utility meters. You need to know the shut-off locations anyway, and hopefully you don’t run into any strange surprises like we did this morning!

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com