Contractor Shortcuts – Part 2

In our last post, we discussed a small handful of the many shortcuts we come across while inspecting houses. In this post we’ll cover a few more…

#1. Unsealed roof fasteners. On nearly every roof we inspect, we locate exposed nails – mostly on ridge caps and plumbing vent stack boots. Roofers often don’t bother applying roof sealant on nailheads because they know the homeowner isn’t likely to climb up on the roof to see them and they know the metal will take a while to corrode or form small pinhole leaks. But that’s exactly what can happen. Over time, the metal will eventually corrode, and small leaks can eventually form. It’s extremely simple and inexpensive to apply some roof sealant on these fasteners, and it’s always best to do it right and know you’ll have no worries for quite some time.

#2. Flexible vinyl dryer vents. This is one we see far more often than we’d like. White flexible vinyl ducts look similar to foil dryer vent ducts, except for the fact that dryer vents are metal and vinyl ducts are white. Homeowners who install dryer vents on their own may not be aware of the fact that vinyl ducts are not intended for use with dryers, so they install them for the sake of ease because they are light, bendable and very easy to work with. Even some contractors take this shortcut to make life easier knowing the homeowner likely won’t be aware that the installation is improper. So what’s the big deal, anyway? Why shouldn’t vinyl be used with dryers when they look like they should be? Well, vinyl ducts do have a purpose, but it isn’t with dryers. They are primarily intended for use with bathroom vent fans that are mostly concealed in unfinished areas and not subjected to such intense heat. Vinyl ducts are actually very thin, fragile and prone to damage and are even flammable under high enough temperatures, so they pose a potential fire hazard or a risk of damage that could lead to leaking dryer exhaust. Many of the vinyl ducts we see at dryers are full of cracks and holes – especially when the ducts are not well protected. Fortunately, it’s fairly easy to get this right and to make a quick, simple repair. Just remember that dryer vents should always be metal – flexible foil or smooth rigid metal. Of the two, flexible foil is far more common because it’s easier to install, but smooth rigid ducting is actually preferred because it is less prone to damage and even helps your dryer run more efficiently.

#3. Spray foam and silicone for every gap and crack. What could be easier than spraying some expanding foam or applying a bead of silicone to seal gaps and cracks? In short, not much! It makes sense that many homeowners, and even contractors, pull out a can of Great Stuff or Loctite spray foam or a tube of silicone to quickly seal exterior crevices and prevent unwanted moisture and pest intrusion and air leakage. And in many cases these fixes will do the job… but only for a time. And therein lies the problem. In many places where foam or silicone is liberally applied, a more permanent material like mortar would be longer lasting. All foams and caulks naturally deteriorate over time when they are exposed, so areas repaired with them will need to be periodically monitored and occasionally redone. The easiest and cheapest method is often not the best fix, so be sure to use good judgment when sealing void areas open to the outdoors.

#4. Open risers and missing balusters at decks. It’s very rare that we come across a deck that has been constructed with all recommended safety components. Of these, the most frequently missing are closely spaced balusters (spindles) in deck guardrails and riser boards at deck steps. Modern safety guidelines recommend that risers over 4 inches in height (which encompasses nearly all risers) be closed and that balusters be spaced no more than 4 inches apart. This is to ensure a sufficient barrier while simultaneously preventing children’s heads or small pets from getting stuck between boards. Fortunately, installing some additional boards is pretty simple; and if your deck is missing these components you could probably install them in a very short time. Just be sure to use appropriate exterior rated fasteners that won’t corrode and loosen shortly after you install them!

#5. Omitting joist hangers. Whether floor joists are supporting the floor structure of a home or a deck, contractors occasionally neglect to install joist hangers. Instead, they simple toenail the joist ends to rim joists. This is fine if the joists are cantilevered, as the cantilevered joists are supported where they are embedded in other structure, and their exposed ends don’t need additional support. In typical cases where both ends of the joists are against rim joists, though, the additional support of the hangers is strongly recommended. If you notice that your joist ends aren’t held with hangers, installing them is pretty simple. Just buy hangers that are appropriately sized for the depth of the joists, fit them snugly beneath each joist end and against each side, and nail into each hanger hole.

#6. Improperly routed plumbing vent pipes. Your plumbing system requires an air intake to ensure fast and efficient drainage. In fact, you can see how this works firsthand by conducting a simple test. Open a bottle of water, turn it upside down, and time how long it takes for all of the water to fully drain out of the bottle. Next, refill the bottle, but this time poke a small hole in the bottom when you flip the bottle upside-down. You’ll be shocked and amazed at how much faster the bottle fully empties with the aid of a simple hole! A slug of water needs to be followed by air as it drains, so proper venting of your plumbing system is crucial. Ideally, the vent stack terminates through the roof, and in most cases it does. Some contractors like to avoid the hassle of roof work, though, so they may run the pipe through an exterior wall or even directly into an unfinished attic space instead. Rules for this vary across municipalities, but a couple of general rules are that the pipe must terminate above the highest openable window of the home and should be at least 10 feet from any openable window. If you’re able, first check to make sure that you can even see a plumbing vent pipe on your roof or through an exterior wall. If you don’t see a pipe or it’s improperly installed, it may be time to consider calling a trusted plumber.

#7. Poorly labeled electrical panels. You may be surprised at how many electrical panels we inspect that are either not labeled or are insufficiently labeled. After going through the work of installing a panel, the last thing an electrician wants to do is take the extra time to label every breaker/circuit. After all, something as simple as writing seems almost degrading after running and connecting wire. Even at fully labeled panels the writing is often virtually illegible, so they might as well not even be labeled. Knowing which breakers control which circuits is crucial, however, if you need to kill the power to a particular area. Take a quick look at your electrical panel and make sure every breaker is labeled. The labeling will likely be either on a paper legend on the inside of the panel door or right next to each breaker. If any breakers are not labeled and too difficult to figure out on your own, call in a qualified electrician to identify and clearly label each circuit/breaker.

I hope this next set of common shortcuts has been helpful, and please be sure to share this post with your family and friends so they too can improve the safety and function of their homes!

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com

Contractor Shortcuts

We home inspectors come across all kinds of improper, incomplete or totally makeshift installations and repairs on a daily basis. In fact, my team and I see something we’ve never seen at nearly every home we inspect. You’d think we wouldn’t be surprised by any of the improper fixes we see after seeing so many, but as the old adage goes, “Just when you think you’ve seen it all…”

While the funny list of so-called “fixes” we’ve seen is nearly endless (diapers being used for water control in a basement, socks being used to fill open mortar joints, nails being used to plug holes in PVC drain lines, a burlap bag being used to trap dryer lint in an attic, and on and on…), there are several common – and, frankly, lazy – improper repairs we see far too often. These are usually the result of contractors not wanting to go to the trouble of finishing a job properly and knowing that the average homeowner won’t know the work wasn’t done properly, won’t bother to check, or won’t notice until enough time has passed that calling the contractor may seem like a waste of time.

Now, don’t get me wrong. I have plenty of contractor friends, and many are highly skilled professionals who are committed to excellent workmanship, quality and customer service. Unfortunately, though, plenty of people market themselves as experienced contractors but aren’t really as skilled as they claim, and others are so busy and backed up that the priority becomes finishing a job as quickly as possible in order to move on to the next one. Needless to say, any types of shortcuts will result in a less-than-desirable result and may leave you, the homeowner, with a future headache.

I’d like to go over a few of the most common shortcuts we come across and explain why they are a problem so you can check these items in your own home, whether now or for jobs you pay to have done in the future. This is the first of what will likely be a few posts on this topic, so keep your eye out for more to come.

#1. Bathroom vents in attics. More often than not, we see bathroom vent ducts terminating right into unfinished attic spaces. After installing a vent fan, which can be a fairly involved process, the last thing a contractor wants to do is run it through the roof where it will require getting on the roof, cutting a penetration, and ensuring the vent is adequately sealed. Not to mention, most electricians aren’t expert roofers (and vice versa). The duct can be run to a soffit vent (which is a less ideal option), but why bother crawling into a tight space, and likely through irritating insulation? The contractor knows that the homeowner probably doesn’t know the vent needs to terminate outdoors, probably won’t crawl into the attic to check, and probably won’t notice any issues until long after the job once mold growth or wood deterioration have occurred from all the hot, moisture-laden air that will frequently enter the attic and condense on the wood roof structure or insulation. Fortunately, the check for this is simple… just peak into your attic and look for any rigid or flexible pipes that have an exposed end above a bathroom. The vent will likely be white flexible vinyl or rigid or flexible metal like what you’d see at a dryer.

#2. Unsecured utility sinks. On average, about 9 out of every 10 utility sinks we inspect are not secured. Maybe closer to 99 out of 100, actually. They are attached to supply and waste piping but are free-standing and move easily. Once a contractor hooks up the sink, chances are it won’t be used very often and probably won’t be hit hard enough to cause any pipes to detach and leak. The typical homeowner would never tolerate an unsecured kitchen or bathroom sink, but a utility sink is another story. The problem, though, is that the sink not being secured can lead to problems, and fortunately the fix is simple. If the utility sink is in a basement, special masonry screws called tapcons can be used. The sink legs come with holes at the base for securing, and a masonry bit can be used to drill pilot holes into the concrete floor that can then be screwed into.

#3. Upper cabinets secured with drywall screws. The vast majority of upper cabinets we come across are secured with drywall screws. Why? Because they’re plentiful and cheap, and in most cases they work fine even though they aren’t designed for upper cabinets. Drywall screws are used for many applications they aren’t designed for, but upper cabinets are of more concern than most because they usually hold quite a bit of weight and are used very often – including by children. To fix this, you don’t need to remove the existing screws. Just purchase some cabinet screws and install them directly into studs (which should be where the other screws already are), in addition to the existing screws, to ensure a strong and safe connection.

#4. Inadequate caulk. After doing the hard work of a bath or kitchen remodel (plumbing, wiring, setting fixtures, tiling, finish work, etc), the last thing a contractor wants to deal with is the more simple, but messy and tedious job of caulking. After all, the homeowner will likely be so thrilled with a much nicer looking space that something as apparently minor as caulk could easily go overlooked or seem trivial. Yet while it may seem like a minor detail, caulk plays a very important role in protecting what you can’t see – especially the subfloor and concealed wall areas. Without caulk, water can leak into crevices and slowly but surely cause damage over time – most of which you won’t notice until the rot is severe and demands immediate attention. Fortunately, caulking is another simple job, although it does take some diligence in finding the appropriate caulk for the particular area and some skill to apply it in a way that looks good and doesn’t make a mess. A couple tips are to use painters tape to create perfectly straight edges, cut your nozzle at an angle and not too large, keep your gap small and don’t overfill it, apply evenly at a 45-degree angle, and use a wet finger to smooth the bead and a wet rag to clean your finger and any stray caulk as you go.

#5. Missing access panels. This one is often done intentionally for appearances rather than the sake of ease, but access panels ideally exist at tubs/showers so that the rough-in plumbing (concealed supply and drain pipes) can be quickly and easily accessed in case of leaking or necessary repair work. It doesn’t take much extra work for a contractor to create a wall access, and pre-made panels are readily available to easily install right into drywall. If you aren’t sure if you have access panels, just look at the wall your tub spout and shower head are against. If a panel exists, it will be on the other side of that wall – often in a closet or hallway. If one doesn’t exist and the wall is closed off, consider having one installed. You won’t regret it when a problem arises, even if it diminishes appearances a bit.

#6. Improperly installed insulation. This one is very important when it comes to energy efficiency and cost, and unfortunately the vast majority of insulation jobs are not well done. One common mistake we run across often is faced fiberglass insulation in drive-under garage or basement ceilings that has been installed with the faced side visible. This is done for comfort, familiarity and ease since it’s much more comfortable to handle the paper face than the itchy fiberglass and contractors are used to installing batts in wall stud cavities where the paper face should be facing them. In addition, the paper side has flanges that fold over to easily staple to the bottoms of joists, although this is really intended for studs in a wall. The problem with this is that the face is a vapor barrier and can cause vapor to become trapped between the face and subfloor where it can condense and lead to unseen mold growth or even possible wood rot over time. For this reason, the rule is that the faced side of the batt should always face the conditioned side of the home. If you have faced fiberglass batts in your basement or in a garage that’s beneath living space, make sure you see the fiberglass, not the facing. The same is true in an attic, by the way, where the faced side should be down. If you see an improper setup, gently pull a few sides of batts downward to look into the space above. If you see apparent mold or other signs of excess moisture, you know the insulation has caused some problems by being improperly installed.

#7. Garage door sensors on ceilings. Since the early 90s, garage door openers have been required to include photo-electric (AKA “red eye”) sensors for safety. The sensors should be installed at the base of the door tracks within 6 inches of the ground, and their purpose is to detect obstructions and cause the door to auto-reverse (stop and reopen) if any obstructions are detected. Unfortunately, it can be a bit tricky to get the sensors perfectly aligned to work properly and they have a tendency to sometimes move slightly and cause annoying malfunctions. To get around this problem, some door installers simply mount the sensors right above the opener in the garage ceiling where they are right next to each other, won’t move and will “trick” the opener into thinking they’re in place as intended since the opener can’t tell where they are. A professional garage door installer actually admitted to me a while back that he installs all sensors this way, knowing it’s not allowed, to avoid callbacks from clients who may become frustrated with nuisance malfunctions and save himself the extra work of installing them properly. It goes without saying, this isn’t only ethically wrong but it could actually lead to injury. Imagine a small child or pet standing directly beneath the door with nothing to stop the door from closing on them! If you have a garage with an overhead mechanical door, make sure your red eyes are where they need to be and that they cause the door to reverse when you close it and kick out between the sensors.

These are only a few of the many common but potentially harmful shortcuts we see on a regular basis, and I strongly encourage you to check these items at your own home. Doing so is extremely quick and easy, and any problems you may identify can likely be remedied fairly easily. For that matter, consider sharing this article with your friends and family so they can be on the lookout for some of these common but problematic shortcuts in their homes as well!

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com

Before You List Your Home…

A while back I wrote about our walk-through inspection option – a popular, cost saving alternative to a traditional inspection for buyers who are purchasing a rental, foreclosure, commercial property, or house being sold as is and who are concerned primarily with major defects rather than every tiny detail that would normally be included in a full report.

Walk-throughs are extremely popular among buyers of such properties… and for good reason, but a walk-through is every bit as beneficial if you’re looking to sell your home. In fact, I would argue that for most potential sellers a pre-listing walk-through should be a no-brainer!

As an inspection chapter president, I make it a priority to constantly stay up-to-date on industry trends, not only in our region, but across the country. One thing I’ve discovered is that the “normal” way of doing things varies somewhat dramatically from one area to the next – even within the same state. In some areas it’s fairly normal for sellers to have their home inspected prior to listing, but in most (like ours) the seller usually lists without an inspection and hopes that the buyer’s inspection doesn’t uncover any major (and potentially costly) surprises.

It goes without saying that any seller would rather be in the know than in the dark regarding an inspection of their home. Without a pre-listing inspection, the seller is likely to feel good after getting a reasonable offer only to suddenly feel very nervous when it’s time for the inspection. After all, an inspection is one of the only steps in the process that could be a deal killer IF enough concerning defects are uncovered. I’ve seen incredibly nervous sellers countless times, and it’s no surprise. One seller recently told me he couldn’t sleep the night before our inspection because, despite maintaining his home impeccably, “it was the fear of the unknown.”

But what if there was a way to make the “unknown,” known? What if you could go into the selling process with little or no fear, knowing that you’ve already been made aware of and dealt with any major issues that could hinder an otherwise smooth sale? You may think, “That obviously sounds great, but what is this going to cost me!?”

The answer: not much! …especially when you consider the peace of mind you get from having your home thoroughly inspected and any major defects dealt with before you try to sell! At the time of this article, our current pre-listing walk-through price for a typical home below 2,500 sf is only $150. That’s less than half the cost of a regular inspection on a similarly sized home! And to date, every seller we’ve done a pre-listing walk-through for has been thrilled they had it done and has had a much more smooth and stress-free selling process. Needless to say, the buyers of those sellers’ homes were also very relieved to know that an inspection had already been completed and the more concerning issues repaired.

When you consider the stress of selling your home, the many benefits of having a pre-listing walk-through clearly outweigh its low cost. Remember that nervous seller who couldn’t sleep? I asked him how valuable a pre-listing walk-through would have been to him had he known about it, and without hesitation he said, “Priceless!”

We’ve designed this option to give you peace of mind as you prepare to sell, and I strongly encourage you to take full advantage of a pre-listing walk-through, whether with us or another inspector in your area. Pre-listing walk-throughs should be much more common, and I invite you to help us promote this as the new norm in order to help buyers, sellers and their agents experience a more smooth and less stressful experience!

To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com

DIY Series – Home Safety 101

Home safety should be a top priority for us all, yet few people know what the recommended safety guidelines are, and they exist for good reason. Do you know much about the different types of smoke and carbon monoxide (CO) detectors, where they should be located throughout your home, the advanced modern features that some possess, and how they are best configured? Do you know the guidelines for GFCI outlets, handrails and guardrails, fire separation and mechanical door safety features in attached garages? What about egress (emergency exit/rescue) guidelines?

These answers and more are included in this MUST WATCH video that I strongly encourage you to watch fully to ensure you and your family are safe!

DIY Series – Electrical!

Do you know how electricity actually works to power your home? Do you feel comfortable with basic wiring, diagnosing electrical problems and performing (safely!) simple repairs on your own?

In this episode of the DIY series we go over these topics, as well as some fascinating facts about electricity that you’ll hopefully find not only interesting but very helpful! Check out the video below to learn more…