Carbon Monoxide Risks: How It Enters Homes & What to Inspect For

Carbon monoxide (CO) is called the invisible killer for a reason — it’s colorless, odorless, and tasteless, yet responsible for hundreds of preventable deaths each year in the United States.

As temperatures drop and furnaces, fireplaces, and space heaters kick into gear across Pennsylvania, understanding how CO can infiltrate your home — and how to prevent it — is critical for every property owner.

Here’s what Hill Property Inspections recommends you know and check before winter is in full swing.

1. What Exactly Is Carbon Monoxide?

Carbon monoxide is a byproduct of incomplete combustion — meaning when fuels such as natural gas, propane, oil, coal, or wood don’t burn completely.

Every gas furnace, boiler, water heater, and fireplace produces some amount of CO, but in a properly vented system, those gases are safely carried outdoors. Trouble starts when vents, flues, or burners malfunction, allowing CO to leak indoors.

Pro Tip: Even small CO leaks can build up quickly in today’s tightly sealed homes with limited ventilation.

2. The Most Common Sources in Homes

Many homeowners assume CO only comes from furnaces — but there are several common culprits:

Gas furnaces and boilers (cracked heat exchangers, blocked flues)

Water heaters and gas dryers

Fireplaces and wood-burning stoves

Gas ranges or ovens (especially if used improperly for supplemental heat)

Attached garages (vehicle exhaust seeping through door gaps or shared framing cavities)

Portable generators or space heaters used indoors

In multi-unit or mixed-use buildings, CO can even travel between units through shared chases or return air systems.

3. Warning Signs of Potential CO Problems

Because CO itself can’t be seen or smelled, pay attention to indirect warning signs of combustion or ventilation issues:

• Yellow or flickering burner flames (instead of steady blue)

• Soot or scorch marks around furnace panels or vent connections

• Persistent condensation on windows or cold walls near heating appliances

• Unexplained headaches, dizziness, or nausea among occupants

• Smoke smell or backdrafting from fireplaces or water heaters

If these symptoms appear, leave the building immediately, call 911, and have the property evaluated before returning.

4. How to Prevent CO Buildup

Preventing carbon monoxide issues starts with proper maintenance and awareness. Follow these steps every heating season:

1. Schedule an annual furnace or boiler service — including a combustion efficiency and draft test.

2. Inspect all vent pipes for rust, gaps, or loose fittings, especially near elbows or joints.

3. Check chimney liners in older homes; deterioration or blockage can trap exhaust gases.

4. Never use ovens, stoves, or grills for heat.

5. Keep flues clear of bird nests, leaves, and snow.

6. Maintain adequate combustion air. In sealed basements or mechanical rooms, add venting or louvered doors.

Pro Tip: Negative pressure from exhaust fans or tight building envelopes can reverse flue draft — a common cause of hidden CO migration.

5. Detector Placement and Testing

Every home should have at least one carbon monoxide detector per floor, ideally near bedrooms and adjacent to mechanical rooms.

Avoid placing detectors directly above fuel-burning appliances, which can cause false readings.

Replace detectors every 5–7 years, or per manufacturer’s instructions.

Test monthly and replace batteries each daylight saving change.

Interconnected or smart detectors are best for multi-level or multi-unit properties.

6. Inspections & Professional Testing

A professional home or commercial inspection can reveal conditions that promote CO buildup — including improper vent pitch, disconnected flues, blocked chimneys, or shared ventilation paths between appliances.

At Hill Property Inspections, our team uses combustion analyzers and infrared thermography to spot exhaust leaks, confirm vent integrity, and verify proper airflow in basements and mechanical rooms.

We also check whether detectors are properly placed — something too many property owners overlook until an emergency occurs.

Final Thoughts

Carbon monoxide is silent, but the risks are very real. A few minutes of maintenance and an annual inspection can protect your family, tenants, or employees from one of the most preventable household hazards.

Ensure your home and family are safe from carbon monoxide and other unseen hazards this season by scheduling a thorough inspection or walk-through consultation:

📞 1-833-HILL-PRO

🌐 www.hillinspections.com

Hill Property Inspections, LLC is a full-service residential and commercial inspection firm based in the Johnstown, PA area.

Sump Pump Selection: What Size, Type & Backup System Do You Need?

A properly installed sump pump can mean the difference between a dry basement and a disaster. In western Pennsylvania—where heavy rains and snowmelt frequently push groundwater toward foundation walls—a reliable sump system is one of the most important tools in protecting your property.

Yet many homeowners overlook whether their pump is the right size, type, or configuration for their home’s specific drainage conditions. Below, Hill Property Inspections breaks down the key factors every homeowner should understand before the next big storm.

1. What a Sump Pump Actually Does

A sump pump is designed to automatically remove water that collects in a sump basin (pit) at the lowest point of a basement or crawlspace.

When the water level rises high enough, the pump activates and discharges water safely outside—preventing basement flooding, foundation deterioration, and mold growth.

However, not all sump pumps perform equally, and the wrong configuration can shorten pump life or fail when you need it most.

2. Pedestal vs. Submersible: Which Is Right for You?

There are two main types of sump pumps, each with pros and cons.

Pedestal Pumps

• Motor sits above the pit (on a “pedestal”) and is not submerged.

• Easier to service and generally less expensive.

• Louder and less powerful—better suited for smaller basins or infrequent use.

Submersible Pumps

• Entire unit sits below water level inside the basin.

• Quieter, more powerful, and handles higher volumes of water.

• Sealed motor resists moisture but costs more and may require full replacement when it fails.

Pro Tip: In areas like Johnstown, Somerset, Ligonier, Ebensburg, Altoona and Bedford, where basements frequently experience high groundwater, a submersible pump is typically the best long-term investment.

3. Sizing Matters: Matching Pump Capacity to Your Home

A pump that’s too small can burn out trying to keep up; one that’s too large may short-cycle and wear prematurely.

When sizing a pump, consider:

Basin depth and diameter (commonly 18–24 inches wide, 24–30 inches deep).

Vertical lift—the height the water must travel before discharging outside (often 8–12 feet).

Discharge distance and pipe diameter.

Inflow rate. If your pit fills quickly during heavy rain, you may need a higher-capacity pump (1/3 HP or 1/2 HP minimum).

A qualified inspector or plumber can help you estimate your gallons-per-minute (GPM) requirement and select the right horsepower.

4. Don’t Forget the Check Valve

Every sump system should include a check valve on the discharge pipe to prevent water from flowing back into the pit after the pump shuts off.

Without it, your pump will cycle on and off repeatedly, reducing lifespan and wasting energy.

Pro Tip: Listen for “clunking” when your pump turns off—that’s often the check valve closing. If you hear constant cycling, it may be failing.

5. The Backup System: Your Safety Net During Outages

Most basements flood not because the main pump fails—but because the power goes out during storms.

Consider one of these options:

Battery Backup System

• A secondary DC-powered pump runs automatically when the primary AC pump loses power.

• Ideal for typical residential basements.

• Batteries should be replaced every 3–5 years and tested monthly.

Water-Powered Backup System

• Uses municipal water pressure to create suction and pump out sump water—no battery or electricity required.

• Works only with city water (not wells) and consumes significant water during use.

Dual-Pump Systems

• Two AC pumps installed side-by-side, one serving as an automatic backup.

• Provides redundancy even if power is available.

Pro Tip: A sump pump alarm or smart monitoring device can alert you by phone if the water level rises unexpectedly.

6. Maintenance Tips to Keep It Working Year-Round

Test your pump every few months by pouring water into the basin. It should activate automatically.

Clean debris from the pit and check valve.

Inspect the discharge line for obstructions, kinks, or freezing risk.

Verify the outlet is on a dedicated GFCI-protected circuit.

Replace pumps about every 7–10 years—or sooner if heavily used.

Final Thoughts

Your sump pump quietly protects your home’s foundation every time it rains. Treating it like a key mechanical system—not an afterthought—can prevent thousands of dollars in water damage.

If you’re unsure whether your sump system is properly sized, installed, or protected with a backup, Hill Property Inspections can evaluate it as part of your next inspection or as a standalone service.

We use infrared imaging and moisture meters to detect hidden seepage and verify discharge effectiveness before problems occur.

Schedule your sump system evaluation today:

📞 1-833-HILL-PRO

🌐 www.hillinspections.com

Hill Property Inspections, LLC is a full-service residential and commercial inspection firm based in the Johnstown, PA area.