Tag: insulation

Why Understanding Your Home’s Attic Ventilation Matters

Attic ventilation is one of those home features most people never think about — until it becomes a problem. Unlike a leaky faucet or a cracked window, poor attic ventilation doesn’t always make itself known right away. But when it does, the consequences can be costly and sometimes dangerous. Proper attic ventilation is about more than just keeping the attic cool in summer; it’s about controlling moisture, extending the life of your roof, improving energy efficiency, and protecting structural components of your home.

So what exactly is attic ventilation? In the simplest terms, it’s a system that allows air to flow through your attic space so that hot, moist, or stagnant air can escape and be replaced with fresh air from the outside. A well-designed ventilation system uses intake vents (typically located at the soffits or eaves) and exhaust vents (such as ridge vents or gable vents) to promote continuous airflow. Think of it like the lungs of your house — without proper airflow, heat and moisture build up, leading to a host of potential issues.

One of the most common problems caused by inadequate attic ventilation is excess heat. In warmer months, heat from the sun can make attic temperatures soar well above the outdoor temperature. This excess heat transfers into the living spaces below, forcing your air conditioning system to work harder to maintain a comfortable indoor temperature. The extra strain on your HVAC system can lead to higher energy bills and potentially shorten the lifespan of your cooling equipment. On the roof itself, high attic temperatures can accelerate the degradation of shingles and other roofing materials, which could mean costly repairs or a premature roof replacement.

In colder climates, attic ventilation plays a different but equally important role. Warm, moist air from the interior of the home rises naturally and can enter the attic if not properly vented. When this warm, moist air meets the cold surfaces of the attic in winter, it can condense and lead to moisture accumulation. Over time, this moisture can create conditions conducive to mold and mildew growth, wood rot, and deterioration of insulation. In some cases, moisture in the attic can lead to ice damming on roofs, where melting snow refreezes at the eaves and causes water to back up under shingles and into the home.

A well-ventilated attic also helps regulate moisture levels year-round. Even in regions without extreme temperature swings, everyday activities like cooking, showering, or doing laundry introduce moisture into the home’s interior air. Without adequate ventilation, that moisture can find its way into attic spaces and compromise the performance of insulation, degrade wood framing, and reduce indoor air quality.

So how do you know if your attic ventilation is working the way it should? Some signs to watch for include unusually high attic temperatures in summer, ice dams in winter, visible mold or mildew on attic surfaces, damp or wet insulation, and unusually high energy bills. While some of these signs can be caused by other issues as well, they are worth investigating and may warrant having a professional inspection to assess your attic’s ventilation and overall condition.

Improving attic ventilation doesn’t always require a major overhaul. In many cases, potential solutions can be as simple as ensuring soffit vents are not blocked by insulation, adding or upgrading ridge vents, or installing additional intake or exhaust vents to balance airflow. Every home is different, and the right ventilation strategy depends on a variety of factors including roof design, climate, insulation levels, and existing vent placement.

In conclusion, attic ventilation is a critical but often overlooked component of a healthy, efficient home. From reducing energy costs to protecting the structure of your home and improving indoor air quality, the benefits of proper ventilation extend far beyond the attic space itself. If you’re unsure about your home’s attic ventilation or have noticed any warning signs, consider having a professional inspection to identify potential issues before they become costly problems. After all, prevention and early action are at the heart of responsible homeownership.

If you’d like a professional inspection of your attic ventilation, roof, insulation, or other major home systems, Hill Property Inspections offers comprehensive inspections that help homeowners understand potential issues and plan for maintenance or repairs with confidence. Call us at 1-833-HILL-PRO or visit hillinspections.com to learn more.

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Sump Pump Selection: What Size, Type & Backup System Do You Need?

A properly installed sump pump can mean the difference between a dry basement and a disaster. In western Pennsylvania—where heavy rains and snowmelt frequently push groundwater toward foundation walls—a reliable sump system is one of the most important tools in protecting your property.

Yet many homeowners overlook whether their pump is the right size, type, or configuration for their home’s specific drainage conditions. Below, Hill Property Inspections breaks down the key factors every homeowner should understand before the next big storm.

1. What a Sump Pump Actually Does

A sump pump is designed to automatically remove water that collects in a sump basin (pit) at the lowest point of a basement or crawlspace.

When the water level rises high enough, the pump activates and discharges water safely outside—preventing basement flooding, foundation deterioration, and mold growth.

However, not all sump pumps perform equally, and the wrong configuration can shorten pump life or fail when you need it most.

2. Pedestal vs. Submersible: Which Is Right for You?

There are two main types of sump pumps, each with pros and cons.

Pedestal Pumps

• Motor sits above the pit (on a “pedestal”) and is not submerged.

• Easier to service and generally less expensive.

• Louder and less powerful—better suited for smaller basins or infrequent use.

Submersible Pumps

• Entire unit sits below water level inside the basin.

• Quieter, more powerful, and handles higher volumes of water.

• Sealed motor resists moisture but costs more and may require full replacement when it fails.

Pro Tip: In areas like Johnstown, Somerset, Ligonier, Ebensburg, Altoona and Bedford, where basements frequently experience high groundwater, a submersible pump is typically the best long-term investment.

3. Sizing Matters: Matching Pump Capacity to Your Home

A pump that’s too small can burn out trying to keep up; one that’s too large may short-cycle and wear prematurely.

When sizing a pump, consider:

• Basin depth and diameter (commonly 18–24 inches wide, 24–30 inches deep).

• Vertical lift—the height the water must travel before discharging outside (often 8–12 feet).

• Discharge distance and pipe diameter.

• Inflow rate. If your pit fills quickly during heavy rain, you may need a higher-capacity pump (1/3 HP or 1/2 HP minimum).

A qualified inspector or plumber can help you estimate your gallons-per-minute (GPM) requirement and select the right horsepower.

4. Don’t Forget the Check Valve

Every sump system should include a check valve on the discharge pipe to prevent water from flowing back into the pit after the pump shuts off.

Without it, your pump will cycle on and off repeatedly, reducing lifespan and wasting energy.

Pro Tip: Listen for “clunking” when your pump turns off—that’s often the check valve closing. If you hear constant cycling, it may be failing.

5. The Backup System: Your Safety Net During Outages

Most basements flood not because the main pump fails—but because the power goes out during storms.

Consider one of these options:

Battery Backup System

• A secondary DC-powered pump runs automatically when the primary AC pump loses power.

• Ideal for typical residential basements.

• Batteries should be replaced every 3–5 years and tested monthly.

Water-Powered Backup System

• Uses municipal water pressure to create suction and pump out sump water—no battery or electricity required.

• Works only with city water (not wells) and consumes significant water during use.

Dual-Pump Systems

• Two AC pumps installed side-by-side, one serving as an automatic backup.

• Provides redundancy even if power is available.

Pro Tip: A sump pump alarm or smart monitoring device can alert you by phone if the water level rises unexpectedly.

6. Maintenance Tips to Keep It Working Year-Round

• Test your pump every few months by pouring water into the basin. It should activate automatically.

• Clean debris from the pit and check valve.

• Inspect the discharge line for obstructions, kinks, or freezing risk.

• Verify the outlet is on a dedicated GFCI-protected circuit.

• Replace pumps about every 7–10 years—or sooner if heavily used.

Final Thoughts

Your sump pump quietly protects your home’s foundation every time it rains. Treating it like a key mechanical system—not an afterthought—can prevent thousands of dollars in water damage.

If you’re unsure whether your sump system is properly sized, installed, or protected with a backup, Hill Property Inspections can evaluate it as part of your next inspection or as a standalone service.

We use infrared imaging and moisture meters to detect hidden seepage and verify discharge effectiveness before problems occur.

Schedule your sump system evaluation today:

📞 1-833-HILL-PRO

🌐 www.hillinspections.com

Hill Property Inspections, LLC is a full-service residential and commercial inspection firm based in the Johnstown, PA area.

Pre-Winter Checklist: What Home Systems to Inspect Before the Freeze

As fall turns to winter here in southwestern Pennsylvania, even a few overlooked maintenance items can lead to costly surprises. From frozen pipes to failing furnaces, now is the time to inspect and prepare your home’s major systems before the first real cold snap hits.

Here’s Hill Property Inspections’ professional pre-winter checklist—drawn from years of inspecting homes across Cambria, Somerset, Westmoreland, Blair, Indiana, Bedford and surrounding Counties.

1. Roof & Attic: Stop Leaks Before They Start

Your roof is your first line of defense against snow and ice.

• Inspect shingles for curling, cracking, or missing pieces—especially near valleys and chimneys.

• Check flashing around vents, skylights, and penetrations. Even small gaps can lead to leaks when ice accumulates.

• Look inside the attic for dark stains, damp insulation, or visible daylight—these are red flags for air leaks or roof damage.

• Verify ventilation. Proper airflow through soffit and ridge vents helps prevent condensation and ice damming.

Pro Tip: If you can see frost or moisture on attic nails, your ventilation or insulation is out of balance.

2. Gutters & Downspouts: Direct Water Away

Clogged gutters can create ice dams that force melting snow under your roof covering.

• Clear all leaves and debris. Flush the system with water to ensure flow.

• Confirm downspout extensions discharge at least 4–6 feet from the foundation.

• Inspect grading. Soil should slope away from the house—at least 6 inches over the first 10 feet.

These small adjustments prevent foundation seepage and protect basement walls through the wet freeze-thaw season.

3. HVAC System: Clean, Service, and Test

Cold weather exposes weak heating systems fast.

• Replace furnace filters and ensure registers are open and unobstructed.

• Have your furnace or boiler serviced by a qualified technician. Annual cleaning keeps efficiency high and reduces carbon monoxide risk.

• Test the thermostat and inspect vent connections for rust or gaps.

• Consider an infrared scan (available with Hill Property Inspections) to check for air leakage and uneven heat distribution.

If your system is older, now’s also the time to budget for an upgrade or backup source.

4. Plumbing & Water Systems: Prevent Freezing

Frozen pipes are among the most common—and costly—winter emergencies.

• Disconnect garden hoses and drain exterior faucets.

• Insulate exposed pipes in unheated crawlspaces, basements, or garages.

• Locate your main water shut-off valve and make sure every adult in the household knows how to use it.

• If you have a sump pump, test it. Pour water into the basin and confirm automatic operation.

For homes on private wells, ensure the well pit or pressure tank area is insulated and protected from drafts.

5. Safety Devices: Test and Replace Batteries

• Smoke and CO detectors: test each unit and replace batteries.

• Fire extinguishers: ensure at least one is rated for A-B-C use and stored where it’s visible and easy to access.

• Dryer vent: clean out lint buildup to reduce fire risk.

6. Exterior & Entry Points: Keep the Cold Out

• Seal gaps around doors and windows with weatherstripping or caulk.

• Inspect exterior lighting for proper operation—shorter days require dependable fixtures.

• Check sidewalks and handrails for damage before freeze events make repairs difficult.

Final Thoughts

A pre-winter inspection is more than a checklist—it’s preventive insurance. By tackling these simple tasks now, you protect your roof, foundation, and comfort all season long.

If you’d rather have a certified professional evaluate these systems for you, Hill Property Inspections offers comprehensive pre-winter assessments, infrared scans, and maintenance inspectionsthroughout southwestern Pennsylvania.

Schedule your winter-readiness inspection today:

📞 1-833-HILL-PRO

🌐 www.hillinspections.com

Hill Property Inspections, LLC is a full-service residential and commercial inspection firm based in the Johnstown, PA area.

Upside-Down Insulation

One of the most common defects we come across – and usually in nicer homes – is insulation that has been installed upside-down. In particular, paper faced fiberglass batts are always the culprit. This is the type of insulation that probably immediately comes to mind when you hear the word “insulation”… long, rectangular batts (usually pink, white or yellow) with a brown paper facing that exists as a vapor barrier. It can lead to a host of problems when improperly installed, and we’ll go over the most common issues and the basic rule for installation so you can check the insulation in your own home and (hopefully) have it corrected if need.

But first of all, let’s begin with a truth that most people either aren’t aware of or don’t want to admit. With the many innovations that have come along in the world of insulation in recent years, fiberglass batts are no longer a very good option for most applications. There are now a number of superior products – all of which can be used in areas where fiberglass batts long reigned supreme – and they should be used. As with most things, it takes quite a while for products to really “catch on”and for contractors to become completely comfortable with the installation, and that’s one of the reasons fiberglass batts are still so popular despite the availability of several far better products.

For many years, contractors and DIY homeowners have been installing batt insulation and have loved its ease of installation and low cost. Closed cell spray foam (arguably the best product available today, depending on the application) isn’t nearly as easy to install and is quite a bit more expensive, so it isn’t the go-to option for most people. Even mineral wool, which also comes in batt form and is easy to install, is a little less familiar and a little pricier. Old habits die hard, and that axiom rings true for fiberglass insulation as it does with so much else. You don’t have to go all-or-nothing with insulation to achieve a good result, though. One fairly popular method nowadays is having one inch of spray foam applied to create a water and air-tight barrier, along with increased rigidity, and then to fill the rest of the cavity with another, less expensive type of insulation.

So, back to upside-down batts and why they’re a problem… Remember how the paper facing of the insulation acts as a vapor barrier? That’s important because a lot hinges on that barrier being installed on the proper side (and it often isn’t). The simple rule for faced batt insulation is that the brown side should always face the conditioned side of the home. Think of the house as a box you’re looking at from the outside, and then envision all of the brown (the vapor barrier) facing inward. If the insulation is in an unfinished basement, a crawlspace or a drive-under garage, the brown should be facing upward and not visible when you’re inside and looking up. If it’s in an unfinished attic, the brown should be facing down and, again, not visible if you are looking at it from within the attic. If it’s in the exterior walls surrounding the main floor(s), the brown should face the interior and be visible if you were to remove the drywall. Pretty easy, right?

You’re likely wondering, if this rule is so simple, why is it so hard for people to understand and follow? Well, one reason is that many people – even contractors – simply don’t know this rule or get confused when they try to remember the direction the insulation should face. The primary reason, though, is that people are so used to installing batts in wall cavities where the brown side should be visible that they just install it that way regardless of the location. It’s also much more pleasant to touch the paper faced side than the itchy, irritating fiberglass, and the brown side has tabs that conveniently fold over to easily staple the batts to studs, joists and other framing members. Even people who know the simple rule we just went over have a tendency to take the easy road and trust it won’t lead to any major issues in the near future, and professionals know that the average homeowner will have no clue that the way they installed their new insulation is improper.

OK, so you’re probably wondering why this rule exists. Why does the vapor barrier need to be facing the conditioned side of the home, and what, exactly, can happen if it’s installed in reverse? Because the vapor barrier blocks water vapor, air that contains vapor and gets into the insulation can condense if there’s a temperature difference (as there always is between finished and unfinished spaces). Once that happens, the condensation won’t have anywhere to go since there’s either sub-flooring above or ceiling material below, so it becomes trapped and often doesn’t quickly evaporate out. Over a long enough period of time and that continually happening, the insulation can compress, lose its R-value and even become a breeding ground for mold and other contaminants. To make matters worse, the paper facing has a black coating, so you likely wouldn’t even notice this happening until it has caused the insulation to sag or fall from a floor structure or drastically compress in an attic. Vented crawlspaces that are naturally prone to high moisture levels are especially susceptible to damaged, falling batt insulation, and we unfortunately see it all too often during inspections. To make matters worse, the batts are usually just friction fitted into place without any wring or other supports whatsoever. The only saving grace to the insulation being able to fall is that it won’t stay pressed against the subfloor where the condensation can lead to eventual rot of the wood floor structure. I often think of falling insulation in vented crawlspaces as alarms… when the batts fall, you know you have a problem and may want to check out your floor structure!

Take some time to walk through your house to check the insulation. If you have fiberglass batts in your basement ceiling, crawlspace floor or attic, make sure that you can’t see the brown side. If you can, gently pry away some of the sides to look around and make sure there isn’t any mold growth or wood/drywall deterioration. You may not have a glaring issue now, but it wouldn’t be a bad idea to budget for a reputable insulation contractor to evaluate what you have and to make recommendations for repairs since it’s only a matter of time before problems do develop. This won’t only prevent possible long-term damage; it will help improve energy efficiency, comfort and value. The bottom line: fiberglass batts aren’t all they’re cracked up to be, and you’d be wise to make sure yours are at least properly installed.

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