Tag: furnace

Heat Pump vs Furnace vs Hybrid Systems: What’s Best in Cold Climates?

As energy costs rise and technology advances, more homeowners in Pennsylvania are asking whether it makes sense to replace their traditional furnace with a heat pump — or to combine both in a hybrid system.

While all three heating methods can keep your home comfortable, they each perform differently depending on temperature, insulation, and utility rates. Here’s what Hill Property Inspections recommends you understand before making your next heating investment.

1. The Basics: How Each System Works

Furnace (Gas or Oil)

Burns fuel to generate heat, which is distributed through ducts. Common in older and rural homes. Provides steady warmth even in subzero weather.

Heat Pump (Electric)

Transfers heat instead of creating it. In heating mode, it pulls warmth from outside air and moves it indoors. Functions as both a heater and air conditioner. Efficiency drops as outdoor temperatures fall — but modern “cold climate” models perform better than ever.

Hybrid (Dual-Fuel System)

Combines a heat pump with a backup gas furnace. Automatically switches between electric and gas depending on outdoor temperature or utility rates. Offers flexibility and improved efficiency in variable climates like western Pennsylvania.

2. Energy Efficiency & Operating Costs

Energy efficiency is measured by AFUE (for furnaces) and HSPF / SEER (for heat pumps).

A modern gas furnace achieves 90–98% AFUE, meaning almost all fuel becomes heat. A quality cold-climate heat pump can reach 300% efficiency — producing three units of heat for every one unit of electricity consumed. Hybrid systems maximize both: they use the heat pump during moderate weather and switch to gas only when it’s truly cold.

Pro Tip: If your electricity rate is low and your home has good insulation, a heat pump can significantly reduce overall energy costs.

3. Performance in Pennsylvania’s Climate

Western and central Pennsylvania winters are often cold, wet, and unpredictable — meaning performance varies by location and home type.

Heat Pumps: Ideal for regions where winter lows stay above 0°F. Modern inverter-driven units can still produce heat down to -10°F, though efficiency declines.

Furnaces: Best for drafty or older homes with limited insulation. They provide consistent heat output regardless of outdoor temperature.

Hybrid Systems: Perfect for areas like Johnstown, Windber, or Somerset where temperatures fluctuate. The system automatically selects the most economical and reliable heat source.

4. Comfort Considerations

Air Temperature: Furnaces deliver hotter air (~120°F) than heat pumps (~95°F), so furnace heat feels warmer but may cycle more abruptly.

Humidity: Heat pumps maintain more consistent indoor humidity and can improve comfort during dry winters.

Noise: Subtle hum outdoors from heat pump compressor; gas furnaces are typically quieter inside.

Zoning Compatibility: Both systems can be integrated with zoning dampers or smart thermostats for better control.

5. Installation and Maintenance Costs

In Pennsylvania’s market, a gas furnace typically costs between $4,000 and $7,000 to install. Furnaces tend to have long lifespans of around 20 years and benefit from relatively inexpensive natural gas in most areas. A heat pump installation generally ranges from $5,000 to $9,000, with higher upfront costs but lower ongoing energy use. For those seeking maximum efficiency, hybrid systems—which combine both—usually range from $8,000 to $12,000, reflecting their dual equipment setup but also their ability to minimize energy costs long-term.

Maintenance requirements also differ. Heat pumps require regular coil cleaning and refrigerant checks to maintain performance. Furnaces should be serviced annually, including burner cleaning and a safety inspection. Hybrid systems require both types of maintenance but provide the advantage of redundancy — if one component fails, the other can continue heating the home.

6. Environmental & Future-Proofing Factors

Heat Pumps: Reduce fossil fuel use and carbon emissions; often eligible for federal tax credits and rebates.

Gas Furnaces: Depend on fuel prices and may see regulatory changes in the coming decade.

Hybrid Systems: Offer a balanced transition strategy — using renewable electricity when possible but maintaining gas reliability.

Pro Tip: For investors and property managers, hybrid systems can improve resale value by appealing to both eco-conscious and traditional buyers.

Final Thoughts

No single system fits every property. The right solution depends on your building’s insulation, budget, and energy goals.

If you’re considering an upgrade or unsure how your current heating system is performing, Hill Property Inspections can evaluate furnace safety, duct efficiency, and overall heating performance as part of a full home or commercial inspection.

We can also use thermal imaging to reveal air leakage, duct losses, and temperature imbalances — helping you make an informed, cost-effective decision before or during winter.

Schedule your heating system evaluation today:

📞 1-833-HILL-PRO

🌐 www.hillinspections.com

Hill Property Inspections, LLC is a full-service residential and commercial inspection firm based in the Johnstown, PA area.

Carbon Monoxide Risks: How It Enters Homes & What to Inspect For

Carbon monoxide (CO) is called the invisible killer for a reason — it’s colorless, odorless, and tasteless, yet responsible for hundreds of preventable deaths each year in the United States.

As temperatures drop and furnaces, fireplaces, and space heaters kick into gear across Pennsylvania, understanding how CO can infiltrate your home — and how to prevent it — is critical for every property owner.

Here’s what Hill Property Inspections recommends you know and check before winter is in full swing.

1. What Exactly Is Carbon Monoxide?

Carbon monoxide is a byproduct of incomplete combustion — meaning when fuels such as natural gas, propane, oil, coal, or wood don’t burn completely.

Every gas furnace, boiler, water heater, and fireplace produces some amount of CO, but in a properly vented system, those gases are safely carried outdoors. Trouble starts when vents, flues, or burners malfunction, allowing CO to leak indoors.

Pro Tip: Even small CO leaks can build up quickly in today’s tightly sealed homes with limited ventilation.

2. The Most Common Sources in Homes

Many homeowners assume CO only comes from furnaces — but there are several common culprits:

• Gas furnaces and boilers (cracked heat exchangers, blocked flues)

• Water heaters and gas dryers

• Fireplaces and wood-burning stoves

• Gas ranges or ovens (especially if used improperly for supplemental heat)

• Attached garages (vehicle exhaust seeping through door gaps or shared framing cavities)

• Portable generators or space heaters used indoors

In multi-unit or mixed-use buildings, CO can even travel between units through shared chases or return air systems.

3. Warning Signs of Potential CO Problems

Because CO itself can’t be seen or smelled, pay attention to indirect warning signs of combustion or ventilation issues:

• Yellow or flickering burner flames (instead of steady blue)

• Soot or scorch marks around furnace panels or vent connections

• Persistent condensation on windows or cold walls near heating appliances

• Unexplained headaches, dizziness, or nausea among occupants

• Smoke smell or backdrafting from fireplaces or water heaters

If these symptoms appear, leave the building immediately, call 911, and have the property evaluated before returning.

4. How to Prevent CO Buildup

Preventing carbon monoxide issues starts with proper maintenance and awareness. Follow these steps every heating season:

1. Schedule an annual furnace or boiler service — including a combustion efficiency and draft test.

2. Inspect all vent pipes for rust, gaps, or loose fittings, especially near elbows or joints.

3. Check chimney liners in older homes; deterioration or blockage can trap exhaust gases.

4. Never use ovens, stoves, or grills for heat.

5. Keep flues clear of bird nests, leaves, and snow.

6. Maintain adequate combustion air. In sealed basements or mechanical rooms, add venting or louvered doors.

Pro Tip: Negative pressure from exhaust fans or tight building envelopes can reverse flue draft — a common cause of hidden CO migration.

5. Detector Placement and Testing

Every home should have at least one carbon monoxide detector per floor, ideally near bedrooms and adjacent to mechanical rooms.

• Avoid placing detectors directly above fuel-burning appliances, which can cause false readings.

• Replace detectors every 5–7 years, or per manufacturer’s instructions.

• Test monthly and replace batteries each daylight saving change.

• Interconnected or smart detectors are best for multi-level or multi-unit properties.

6. Inspections & Professional Testing

A professional home or commercial inspection can reveal conditions that promote CO buildup — including improper vent pitch, disconnected flues, blocked chimneys, or shared ventilation paths between appliances.

At Hill Property Inspections, our team uses combustion analyzers and infrared thermography to spot exhaust leaks, confirm vent integrity, and verify proper airflow in basements and mechanical rooms.

We also check whether detectors are properly placed — something too many property owners overlook until an emergency occurs.

Final Thoughts

Carbon monoxide is silent, but the risks are very real. A few minutes of maintenance and an annual inspection can protect your family, tenants, or employees from one of the most preventable household hazards.

Ensure your home and family are safe from carbon monoxide and other unseen hazards this season by scheduling a thorough inspection or walk-through consultation:

📞 1-833-HILL-PRO

🌐 www.hillinspections.com

Hill Property Inspections, LLC is a full-service residential and commercial inspection firm based in the Johnstown, PA area.

Fuel Sources – Pros & Cons

A frequent question we get from our home inspection clients is how much their heating and cooling costs might be. Answering this question falls outside the scope of our job description, so we refrain from answering it directly, but this article will cover the basics to assist anyone trying to figure out what they can expect to pay for various types of fuel sources in their current or future home.

In the current era, renewable sources of energy (solar, wind, etc) are becoming more and more popular, but non-renewable sources are still much more prevalent – at least here in the Northeast. When I refer to “fuel sources,” I mean energy sources that can power systems, and heat is a particular focus since a heat source is required for a home to be safely habitable. You’re probably familiar with at least several of the most common fuel sources, but there are some that are common in areas that you may not even know exist. Let’s take a minute to go over some…

ELECTRICITY. If you aren’t Amish or living entirely off-grid, you’re well acquainted with electricity. It powers your lights, TVs, computers, many appliances and more, and it can serve as an energy source for your home’s entire heating system. A fully electric heating system utilizes electric baseboard heaters, an electric heat pump or boiler, in-floor and/or in-ceiling electric heat, and this type of system is very efficient since all wattage is actually used to generate heat. However, all-electric heat can be quite expensive, the systems can be prone to partial or full outages, and baseboard heaters can pose a hazard when drapes, cords or other items exist above or very close to them as they become very hot. Standard heat pumps are great in the right climate but can become less practical in very cold climates where less heat is available to be drawn in from outdoor air. The exception to the often high cost of electric heating is perhaps the most efficient option of all, which is an electric geothermal (ground source) heat pump, which takes on and disperses heat via the ground where the temperature is more constant – even during winter and periods of very low temperatures. Large homes with a geothermal system often have total electric bills under $300 per month, which is incredible considering that this figure includes all devices and not just the cost of heating and cooling. Another benefit of every electric heating system is a steady supply of power (provided there are no outages), meaning no manual deliveries need to be made to the home. While quite expensive, whole-house gas powered generators can also be installed to provide “backup” power in the event that a power outage occurs.

NATURAL GAS. Generally speaking, if a costly geothermal system isn’t an option, natural gas is typically the least expensive option to fuel most homes. Although not available in some areas, many homes are equipped with a natural gas supply; and like electricity, it comes into the house on a continual basis without having to be delivered manually. A downside to gas is the possibility of potentially hazardous gas leaks, which can be very dangerous (even fatal), although proper installation and periodic inspections can prevent this issue. Not long ago, we discovered a concerning gas leak during an inspection at a duplex that had been inspected and deemed fine just two days prior, and the unit with the leak was tenant occupied. To the credit of the gas company, they immediately owned their mistake and promptly sent a crew out to correct the problem and ensure the occupant’s safety. Despite the hazards inherent with combustible gases, nearly all homes we inspect with natural gas are free of leaks with well installed systems and components, and the low cost and plentiful availability of natural gas make it a great option for most homes.

PROPANE. Like natural gas, liquid propane (LP) is also a gas. However, unlike natural gas that comes into homes in a steady supply, propane has to be delivered. This means the propane level has to be monitored fairly often (usually with a tank gauge or fin), and the service provider has to be alerted when refills are necessary. Propane is usually fairly cost-effective, but it is more costly than natural gas, often near-equivalent to electricity per kilowatt hour, and usually cheaper than fuel oil.

FUEL OIL. This is a type of fuel source that is very common in our area but not at all common in many regions of the country. Like propane, fuel oil has to be manually delivered to homes that utilize it, and the oil level needs to be monitored by the homeowner – typically with a simple gauge at the oil storage tank(s). These gauges occasionally become faulty, but even a long yard stick can be used as a “dip stick” to check the oil level, similar to checking the oil level in a vehicle. Fuel oil produces a very hot heat that many people like, but oil also produces a smell some find unpleasant and usually costs a good bit more than other fuel sources. Unlike electric and natural gas bills that are paid monthly, fuel oil deliveries have to be paid in full at the time of delivery, which makes budgeting more difficult, although service providers nearly always offer discounts for purchasing more gallons at a time (for example, $3.89 per gallon for 100 gallons, $3.69 per gallon up to 199 gallons, and 3.49 for 200 gallons or more). Discounts are also available by most companies during off-peak seasons, like summer, so money can be saved by planning and budgeting wisely.

COAL & WOOD. Although different, these fuel sources are “lumped” together (get it?) because both are solid fuel options and can sometimes both be used in the same furnace or boiler. In fact, even fuel oil can be used in some systems that accept wood and coal, although such systems are rather rare. The benefit to coal and wood is that both burn hot and are fairly inexpensive (especially wood that can be obtained on one’s own property or for little to no cost from a friend), but both are also quite dirty and require manual work to load the solid fuel, stoke the fire and clean the resulting debris. Some people who utilize wood and coal enjoy the labor involved and like harkening back to an older time, but this requires the know-how, skill and time necessary to keep up with this type of system. It goes without saying, but coal and wood require manual delivery, which some find inconvenient.

Regardless of the type of HVAC system you have or plan to install, know that a high-efficiency system will save you a lot of money over the long run. Look for high AFUE ratings (90% and higher) for heating systems and high SEER ratings for A/C systems to ensure more of your money is actually being used to heat or cool your home. Almost as important is utilizing a programmable thermostat – preferably a modern “SMART” model that can be controlled remotely and tracks data related to usage habits – but be sure to actually program and monitor the stat. When it comes to upgrades that improve energy efficiency and have a quick return on investment (ROI), programmable thermostats rank among the highest and are really a no-brainer.

In many cases, homeowners are limited in their fuel options based on what’s available in their area and cost considerations. Hopefully this article has served as a helpful and informative guide as you seek to utilize your resources as best as possible in your own home, and feel free to comment if you still have questions or need further assistance!

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com/

High Efficiency Furnaces

If you’re like most people, you’re concerned with getting the biggest bang for your buck when it comes to heating and cooling your home, and you may also be concerned about helping the environment by leaving a smaller carbon footprint. Energy efficiency is extremely important, which is why it’s become such a hot topic in recent years and why building codes have increasingly become more and more strict in dictating that homes be built to higher efficiency standards. An energy efficient home is more comfortable, less expensive (in the long run), and more valuable than a home that lacks efficiency, and less waste is always a good thing.

In this article, we’re going to focus on just one of many systems that determines the efficiency of a home: your furnace, and gas furnaces in particular. Many homeowners don’t know the efficiency of their furnace, let alone how it operates or what makes one heating system more efficient than another, and I hope to equip you with some basic knowledge so you can check your own system and ensure you’re getting the best value possible.

But first, a little history… for a very long time, homes were heated with low-efficiency, passive heating systems that had an efficiency rating of about 60% to 70% at best. This means that for every hundred dollars homeowners spent to heat their house, only about $60 to $70 was actually used to provide heat while $30 to $40 went out the chimney and was wasted. Not only that, but many homeowners had to perform manual labor to load, light and stoke their furnaces with a fuel source like wood or coal, which was manually delivered or obtained from the land. If that doesn’t sound like your cup of tea, be very thankful you’re alive today and benefiting from modern technology! There are actually plenty of people who still live this way and even prefer it, but the average American would rather not be burdened with so much work. For what it’s worth, though, I would argue that there is something fulfilling about doing things the old fashioned way. Still, I certainly prefer a high-efficiency and very low-maintenance heating system, just like the next guy!

Fast forward to the 1980’s, and some pretty revolutionary innovation began to take place. Lennox – a well known and reputable company – introduced the popular Pulse furnace, which achieved a much higher efficiency than what was even thought possible before. The company wasn’t shy about promoting it either, and the Pulse furnace may be the best marketed furnace of all time. Throughout the 80’s and 90’s, manufacturers learned various ways to design furnaces to use more of the heat they produce, and 80% to 90% became a more common efficiency standard. A furnace during that time period may have had an efficiency rating in the low 80’s but been considered high-efficiency by the standards at the time.

Today, many furnaces are rated at 95% or higher, which is leaps and bounds beyond the older, low-efficiency models that existed for decades. A high-efficiency furnace is a pretty remarkable piece of technology and saves homeowners a great deal of money. So, how do you know if your furnace is a high-efficiency model, and how exactly does it work?

Contrary to low and mid-efficiency furnaces that have one heat exchanger, a high-efficiency furnace has two. This allows the system to use more heat from combustion gases, and it also causes a good deal of condensation to form as the gases condense and form water vapor. For this reason, high-efficiency furnaces are also known as “condensing” furnaces. Because the exhaust gases are not as hot, the vent piping does not have to be metal as it does for older, less efficient systems. Instead, these furnaces use plastic vent pipes (usually PVC), which makes them easily identifiable. In fact, that’s one of the easiest ways (aside from looking at your furnace’s yellow efficiency sticker) to tell whether it’s rated at 90% or higher. If it has plastic white pipes it’s a high-efficiency furnace, and if it has a metal flue it’s not. The pipes for a high-efficiency furnace also don’t need to run through a chimney like metal flues, so you’ll typically see them protruding through a side wall of the home, often not far from the ground.

Like all good things, though, condensing furnaces do pose some potential drawbacks – namely the fact that they produce so much condensation. The water that is produced can wreak havoc on a furnace if it isn’t adequately contained and controlled, and it’s something we come across during inspections more often than you might think. The condensate must be contained so it can’t spill out anywhere inside the furnace, because this can lead to corrosion and eventual damage that destroys the system – especially if heat exchanger damage occurs. The condensate must also be drained away from the furnace, and the drain line has to be clean, unobstructed, and free of kinks so the water can easily move through the line. If the condensate doesn’t drain directly into a floor drain via simple gravity, it often first runs into a pump where it’s pumped upward and over to another drain, like a utility sink, and the pump is a mechanical part that is prone to eventual failure. Problems can arise any time, so periodic monitoring is a must if you have a high-efficiency furnace.

Sufficed to say, high-efficiency furnaces present a handful of potential problems, but they’re still well worth it as long as they are well looked after and maintained. Having $95 or more of every $100 you spend actually being used as intended is far, far better than only $80 or even $85. If you take the time to do some simple math and multiply that extra $10 or $15 for every $100 over many months and years, it will add up to a substantial savings very quickly.

Now, remember how I mentioned that older furnaces with an efficiency rating in the low 80’s were considered highly efficient for their time? That’s important to know because some manufacturers labeled them that way right on the furnace panel. Just the other day, we inspected a home with an oil furnace that had an efficiency rating of 81.4% that said “high efficiency” right on its front. By today’s standards, that furnace is not efficient, so be careful to check your own furnace beyond how it’s advertised – especially if it’s older. Likewise, some of the Lennox Pulse furnaces I mentioned (particularly those from the 1980’s) do have a known history of being susceptible to excess corrosion, so be sure to have yours checked and serviced at least annually by a qualified HVAC technician if you have one.

You may or may not know how efficient your current heating system is, and if you don’t I would strongly encourage you to check. If your furnace is older and not very efficient, you may want to consider upgrading to a more efficient system in the future. If you’re currently in the market for a new system and plan to stay in your home for a while, going the high-efficiency route is a no-brainer. You can also get highly efficient boilers, by the way, so this technology is not limited only to forced air systems. HTP and Buderus are a couple of popular high-efficiency manufacturers in the boiler world, although plenty of other companies also now offer great systems that will save you a lot of money and help improve the value and overall comfort of your home.

Check your furnace, calculate your potential savings, and make a plan to upgrade if you haven’t already. You won’t be sorry, but you’ll need to be diligent about maintaining your furnace often and as best as possible. That’s where a good HVAC company comes into play, so be sure to also establish a good relationship with an experienced and trusted professional to install and service your system.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com