Hill Inspections

Waterproofing Made Easy

Well, maybe not “easy” but simpler than some people would have you believe…

We tell our inspection clients often that water is “enemy number one” because water can cause more damage more quickly than just about anything. It’s no surprise, then, that water control is priority number one; and moisture intrusion is one of the most common deficiencies we come across at the homes and commercial buildings we inspect.

Here in the Northeast region, it is almost a guarantee that a house with a basement or crawlspace will have some level of excess moisture, with the exception of newly constructed homes that were built with a foundation waterproofing system. The fact that something is common, though, doesn’t mean it’s okay, and countless homeowners spend many thousands of dollars trying to waterproof an older foundation to prevent damage, mold growth and a myriad of other problems. The question is, are costly repairs and waterproofing systems always necessary, or are there easier and less expensive alternatives?

Before you hire a large company to install an interior drainage system with sump pumps and DryLok your basement walls, install a French drain, or perform another extensive job, there are a few simple things you can likely do on your own that may solve the problem and save you loads of money. To keep things simple, try to remember the acronym “GRVD,” which stands for “grading, rain spouting, vegetation and dehumidifier.”

Water control is really quite simple when you understand that all water in a home comes from one of two sources – weather outside (rain, snowmelt, etc) and interior plumbing. As long as there are no interior plumbing leaks, you can assume that the vast majority of unwanted water intrusion (if not all) is coming from the exterior, and especially during periods of heavy or prolonged rainfall. So, what can you do outside to help prevent water from coming into your home?

First, make sure that the soil around your home is positively graded, meaning sloped away from the foundation. We like to see at least a 6-inch drop over a span of 10 horizontal feet, but a greater slope is even better. Soil naturally compacts down over time, so it’s important to go a little overboard when first correcting soil grading to be sure it remains positively sloped as time passes. Water will naturally follow the path of least resistance downward, and how your soil is graded will determine whether water flows directly toward your foundation or down and away from your home. It’s really that simple, yet inadequate grading is present at nearly all houses.

Next, it’s time to evaluate your gutters and downspouts (rain spouting), which are crucial for collecting and discharging water that pours onto your roof. With a properly installed roof drainage system, water will run down the roof surface and into gutters, then into connected downspouts, and finally into below-grade diverter piping or through above-grade extensions and into the yard. Some homes don’t even have rain spouting, but the ones that do almost always have at least a couple or few issues, like gutter debris, unsealed and leaking seams, insufficient slope, or inadequate extensions. You’ll want to examine your gutters and downspouts carefully to verify that each is properly sized, well secured, adequately sealed, and free of debris. You’ll also want to verify that L-shaped valley shield (splash guard) flashing exists below valleys at inner gutter corners, that “kick-out” flashing exists at the lower corners beneath roof-wall intersections, and that above-grade downspout extensions are present and extended to carry rainwater at least 4-6 feet from basements or crawlspaces and at least 2 feet from slabs. Beyond those basics, it’s a good idea to also consider installing a form of gutter guards to prevent accumulation of gutter debris (leaves, small twigs, shingle granules, etc) as a more permanent and maintenance-free solution to gutter clogging. A word of caution, though: in many cases it’s actually worse to have a poorly functioning roof drainage system than to have no gutters or downspouts at all. That’s because the absence of rain spouting allows water to disperse more evenly, while an improperly sloped gutter, leaking gutter seam or unextended downspout will allow substantial amounts of concentrated water that has been collected and contained to pour onto the ground next to the foundation. Gutters and downspouts should be viewed as a “must” in most cases, but care should be taken to ensure they are actually doing their job to avoid causing even more harm.

After you’ve ensured that soil is positively graded and that your rain spouting is in good shape, it’s time to evaluate the vegetation surrounding your home. Bushes, tree roots and other plants will retain moisture that could lead to unwanted moisture intrusion, and removing or trimming vegetation can have a greater impact than you’d probably assume. In most cases, vegetation does not cause water infiltration to the same degree as grading and rain spouting issues, but maintaining vegetation is another important step you won’t want to neglect when taking measures on your own to better protect your home from water.

If you’ve taken the time and effort to address the exterior issues we’ve gone over and have verified that you have no interior plumbing leaks, the next steps are pretty simple and straightforward. If your basement or crawlspace walls have visible microbial growth (like mold), efflorescence or other discoloration, you can wear personal protective equipment (PPE) and clean the affected surfaces, then set up a dehumidifier to run continually. Be sure to hook up a hose and run it into a drain, or you’ll be forced to manually dump the dehumidifier’s bucket pretty often. You could seal your wall surfaces at this time if you’d like, although sealing products sometimes cause more harm by trapping moisture and causing the underlying masonry to deteriorate over time, and it’s a good idea to verify that you’ve fixed the source of moisture intrusion before performing a mere bandaid fix for aesthetic purposes.

In some cases, waterproofing simply requires extensive work that costs a lot of money – especially when a house exists above a high water table. In most cases, however, the measures I’ve laid out here can be taken rather easily to drastically reduce water infiltration and save thousands of dollars. Water control is an ongoing priority and is never a one-and-done task, but the average home or commercial property owner can do much more than they’d think to control “enemy number one” and keep water at bay.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com

Maintenance Recommendations

Homeownership involves quite a bit more maintenance and upkeep than many realize, and knowing what to do and how to prioritize a myriad of tasks over time can seem overwhelming. Below is a list of maintenance suggestions relevant to each titled section, and we hope you find this guide useful!

EXTERIOR: The exterior components act as the “skin” of the structure and a first line of defense against the elements, and all exterior areas and components should be continually monitored and well maintained to ensure the structure is well protected and safe. This includes (in part) maintaining all vegetation at least 1-2 ft from the house exterior, repairing any damage to siding, trim, fascia, soffit and flashing, cleaning moss, algae or other vegetation growth, monitoring the base of cladding and deck/porch posts, ensuring that soil grading is positive (sloped away from the foundation), maintaining exterior caulk, sealant, paint and stain, keeping wood piles at least 30 ft from any structure, sealing any exterior cracks and crevices, repairing any damaged masonry, protecting any exposed, bare or deteriorated wood, and addressing unwanted pest activity.

ROOF & PENETRATIONS: The roof is a crucial first line of defense for the structure and should be maintained in the best condition possible, which includes (in part) continual monitoring of the roof covering for signs of damage, periodic cleaning of gutters, debris and vegetation growth, extension of downspouts across lower roof surfaces and at least 5 ft from basements or crawlspaces or 2 ft from slabs, sealing of any exposed fasteners or deteriorated sealant/flashing, and securing of any loose roof, vent or rain spouting fasteners. If not already present, gutter guards would ideally be installed to prevent accumulation of vegetation and other debris that could hinder proper drainage, and installation of heat cable along eaves is often beneficial for preventing ice damming.

GARAGE: Cracking in garage slabs (concrete floors) is common due to shrinkage or possible heaving, and any cracks should be well sealed and periodically monitored, whether present now or in the future. Attached garages should contain suitable fire separation material, such as 5/8-inch type “X” drywall, between the garage interior and adjoining living spaces, and garage man doors leading to the house interior should be solid and self-closing (fully fire rated) to prevent the spread of fire and potentially harmful exhaust gases (including carbon monoxide) that more frequently occur in garages. Working photo-electric “red eye” safety sensors should be present within 6 inches of the ground at the base of overhead and mechanical garage door tracks, and garage door openers should be connected to dedicated receptacles rather than extension cords. Although not required, any exterior man doors serving garages should be equipped with deadbolt locks to improve security.

FIREPLACES & STOVES: All fireplaces or stoves should be operated with care and safety and continually maintained as needed, and all chimneys should be periodically monitored for signs of damage or buildup. Hearth extensions in front of wood-burning fireplaces should be at least 16-20 inches deep, depending on the size of the fireplace opening, to prevent a potential fire hazard, and the firebox (interior) of a fireplace should be kept clean from excessive ash, soot/creosote and corrosion buildup. For wood-burning or vented units with a damper, the damper and its control should be in good working order to ensure safe exhaust of combustion gases and smoke and to properly regulate draft. Masonry chimneys should be equipped with a flue liner to safely carry exhaust outdoors and a rain cap to prevent unwanted water, debris or vermin intrusion that could lead to possible damage or obstruction. Metal chimneys should be generally free of rust and an appropriate, listed type for the appliance served.

STEPS & RAILINGS: Handrails should exist where there are more than 3 steps (counting landings) and should be secure, graspable, continuous, located 34-38 inches above the front nosing of stair treads, and equipped with vertical balusters (spindles) along open sides that are spaced closely enough together that a 4-3/8” sphere cannot pass between them. Likewise, guardrails should exist at landings 30 inches or higher and should be secure, at least 36 inches (3 ft) high, and equipped with vertical balusters spaced no farther than 4 inches apart. Guardrail barriers should also be vertical, not horizontal, as horizontal balustrades are climbable for small children. The minimum recommended height at stairways is 6’-8” (although lower heights are common in older homes), and stair treads and risers should vary in depth or height no more than 3/8-inch to prevent a potential trip hazard. Stair risers over 4 inches in height should also be closed where there are more than 3 steps, and open risers are very common at deck, porch and basement stairways. Doors should also not open above stairs unless a minimum 3’ x 3’ landing is present, and an enclosed landing or a landing with steps and railings should exist beneath elevated exterior doors.

WINDOWS & DOORS: Bedrooms should be equipped with suitable egress (emergency escape or rescue) windows that are openable, at least 5.7 square feet in size, and no higher than 44 inches above the floor, and working locks are ideally present on bedroom and bathroom doors for privacy – excluding master bathrooms connected to master bedrooms. Windows should not be left open during periods of rain or snow to prevent damage to interior window stools or other materials, and doors should not open above steps unless a minimum 3’ x 3’ landing is present to prevent possible injury. Deadbolt locks ideally exist at exterior doors for added security, and deadbolts should be keyed only at the exterior. Openable doors and windows should operate smoothly, and window and door locks should be properly aligned and functional.

INTERIOR: Monitoring for new or worsening cracks in walls and ceilings, doors or windows that begin to stick, stains that may form on finishing materials, and other signs of damage that may arise at the interior should be common practice. Any such cracks or stains should be well sealed to make further damage that may arise more apparent. Shades/covers should be present at interior light fixtures to protect bulbs, closet lighting should be LED or fluorescent, and at least one receptacle outlet should exist in any hallways that are 10 ft or longer. Periodic monitoring for unwanted pest activity is also recommended, as well as maintaining the interior in a clean and sanitary condition. Cosmetic defects, such as carpet stains, scrapes, dings, markings and the like, do not generally affect safety or durability and are typical of nearly all houses to some extent, but cosmetic issues are ideally addressed for aesthetic purposes.

KITCHEN & BATHROOMS: All kitchen and bathroom caulk and grout will naturally deteriorate over time and should be continually monitored and cleaned, repaired or replaced as often as noticeably necessary – whether in poor condition now or in the future – to prevent moisture intrusion into concealed wall and floor areas that could lead to mostly hidden damage over time. Toilet closet bolts should also be kept tight and capped to prevent loosening and corrosion, adequate clearances should exist around toilets, and mechanical drain stoppers at tubs and sinks should be adjusted as needed to ensure proper function. Shower arms are also ideally surrounded by a waterproof material extending at least 3 inches above the flange to prevent possible moisture damage to walls, and carpet in kitchen and bathrooms should be kept clean or (preferably) replaced with a more water-resistant flooring material like tile, vinyl or linoleum. Cabinetry and counter or vanity tops should be well secured, upper cabinets should be secured with appropriate cabinet or pan head screws, and minor damage to kitchen or bathroom components should be addressed promptly to prevent further damage – especially from water.

ATTIC, INSULATION & VENTILATION: The underside of the roof structure (rafters or trusses, planks or sheathing, etc) in unfinished attic spaces should be periodically monitored for signs of possible leaking, excessive condensation buildup, microbial growth or other damage, and insulation should also be monitored. Attics in this climate zone (the Northeast) ideally contain insulation levels equivalent to R-30 to R-38 or higher, and unfinished attic access doors, hatches or panels should be sufficiently sized, well sealed and insulated. All roof framing members should be intact and well fastened, and horizontal collar ties should exist along the upper third of rafters for gable (triangular shaped) roofs in order to stabilize the roof structure – especially against wind uplift forces. Monitoring for pest activity (especially rodents) is also advised, as attics are a common nesting area for unwanted invaders. Kitchens should contain mechanical ventilation, such as an above-range microwave or range hood, to filter cooking residue and expel warm, moisture-laden air, and bathrooms should contain an exhaust fan that terminates outdoors and/or openable window to expel moisture and noxious odors to the exterior. Dryer vents should be composed of metal (preferably smooth rigid metal) and should be routed to an unscreened baffled or louvered exterior exhaust hood (although indoor lint trap canisters may be sufficient for electric dryers). Lastly, attic bypasses should be well sealed – observing required clearances around lights or heat rated vents – to prevent unwanted air leakage and ensure optimal energy efficiency.

STRUCTURE: Any structural issues that may arise in the future should be addressed immediately by a qualified professional, and any planned alterations to the home’s structure should first be reviewed and approved by a qualified structural engineer or architect. While some degree of settlement and moisture intrusion is common (especially in below-grade space), measures should be taken to ensure that the structure is continually sound and that moisture levels are not excessive. Elevated moisture/humidity levels can lead to efflorescence, microbial growth (like mold) and eventual wood deterioration, and dehumidifiers should generally be used in this climate zone (especially in basements) to help control humidity levels. Ensuring that rim (band) joist cavities are well sealed and insulated will also help improve energy efficiency, and the paper facing (vapor barrier) of insulation batts should always face the conditioned portion of the home… “paper faces people.” Cracks in basement slabs (floors) are generally not a cause for alarm, but any open cracks should be sealed and periodically monitored, and thin cracks from settlement or shrinkage in structural masonry walls should be well sealed to prevent unwanted moisture intrusion.

PLUMBING: Visible supply and waste pipes, as well as valves, should be periodically monitored for signs of leaking or excessive corrosion/encrustation buildup. Some degree of corrosion is typical of metal piping and valves, and plastic piping that will not corrode offers several advantages over metal piping (like copper and cast iron), while modern ball valves are generally more reliable and user-friendly than older style gate valves. Faucet aerators should be present and periodically cleaned, and faucets, valve handles, sinks and other fixtures should be well secured. Water heating equipment should be equipped with an expansion tank on the cold-side inlet (especially with public water supplies) to prevent possible damage to plumbing as water heats and expands, and expansion tanks should be properly secured. Gas water heaters should be elevated at least 3 inches, and their vent connector (flue) should slope steadily upward at a minimum rate of 1/4-inch per linear foot and be well sealed at its entrance into any chimney. Although often missing, dielectric unions should exist at water heater connections to prevent corrosion from an ion exchange between dissimilar metals, and at least 18 inches of rigid supply piping (typically copper) should exist directly above water heaters prior to attaching to plastic, like PEX tubing or CPVC. Older style S and drum traps are very common beneath sinks, but they can siphon out the water seal necessary to prevent sewer gases from re-entering the interior and are ideally replaced with modern P traps – especially if the water seal is frequently siphoned out. Likewise, flexible accordion style drain lines are often used for their ease of installation, but rigid plastic drain piping (typically PVC) is preferred.

ELECTRICAL: All electrical work should be completed by a qualified electrician, as electricity poses a safety risk (including even death in some cases) to untrained individuals. Ensure that smoke and carbon monoxide (CO) detectors are always located on each floor, in each bedroom, near all sources of combustion, and periodically tested for safety. It is also recommended that any GFCI receptacles be tested monthly with their onboard test and reset buttons, and GFCI protection ideally exists in bathrooms, kitchens, garages, outdoors, in basements and crawlspaces, and within 6 feet of any sink or water source. All junction boxes, receptacle outlets and switches should be covered, and faceplates should be intact and free of cracks or other damage. Older two-prong outlets (while typically “grandfathered in” with old homes) are ideally upgraded to modern three-prong grounded outlets for safety, and all outlets should be properly wired with correct voltage and firmly secured in walls, floors or ceilings. Generally speaking, branch circuit wires in electrical panels should each be secured under their own lug (screw) and not “double tapped,” and all wires should be appropriately sized or larger than required for their corresponding breakers or fuses. While not inherently defective, any older fuses are ideally upgraded to modern circuit breakers that are more user-friendly, and corroded electrical equipment that may be prone to increased resistance should be repaired or replaced, depending on the severity of buildup. Outdoor wiring should be adequately protected (typically in conduit and/or by being buried) and rated for outdoor use, and all wiring should be well secured – including within 12 inches of electrical panels. Panel legends should also be fully labeled, breakers should be designed for the panel and the same brand, and all panel cover screws should be present. Electrical panels should be readily accessible and unobstructed, and clearances of at least 36 inches in front of panels and 30 inches across their front should exist. Any incandescent bulbs that may exist would ideally be replaced with modern, more efficient LED bulbs; and any bulbs listed as not working that do not work after being replaced should be evaluated further by a qualified electrician.

HVAC: Generally speaking, heating and cooling systems should be checked, cleaned and serviced (“tuned”) every year by a qualified HVAC technician or plumber, depending on the type of system. Filters serving forced air systems should also be properly cleaned or changed on a frequent basis to promote proper airflow, optimal system performance and good indoor air quality, and dark streaks from thermal bridging (“ghosting”) may appear along walls or ceilings when dirty air particles combine with vapor and settle along cool surfaces. Despite its name, duct tape is not intended for use with ductwork, and any duct tape that may exist at duct joints would best be replaced with foil tape, mastic or another suitable sealant. If present, A/C suction lines should be thoroughly insulated with the insulation maintained in a good state of repair, and at least 12 inches of clear space should exist around outdoor condensing units with a minimum clearance of at least 3 ft directly above. Budgeting to replace A/C systems equipped with older R-22 refrigerant (Freon) is strongly recommended, as R-22 is now prohibited, and such systems sometimes require full replacement when problems arise. Heating systems requiring combustion air should exist in spaces with ample air volume or louvered openings, and any intake or exhaust vents should be screened at the exterior. Intakes for high-efficiency systems should also be run to the exterior, rather than open to basements or other interior spaces, as this can cause a buildup of negative air pressure indoors. While not required, older mechanical thermostats are best upgraded to programmable thermostats – preferably modern “SMART” models that can be controlled remotely and track data related to usage habits – to noticeably reduce energy consumption and save cost.

A FINAL WORD: While this guide covers a great deal of information and is intended to help homeowners gain knowledge and formulate a plan that is suitable to their own homes, every house is unique and will occasionally require the skill and expertise of qualified and experienced contractors. Knowing when to “DIY” (do-it-yourself) a project versus when to call in a pro is an important distinction, and no task should be tackled without confidence, careful planning and a focus on safety.

*To visit our main website, go to: http://www.hillinspections.com

Fuel Sources – Pros & Cons

A frequent question we get from our home inspection clients is how much their heating and cooling costs might be. Answering this question falls outside the scope of our job description, so we refrain from answering it directly, but this article will cover the basics to assist anyone trying to figure out what they can expect to pay for various types of fuel sources in their current or future home.

In the current era, renewable sources of energy (solar, wind, etc) are becoming more and more popular, but non-renewable sources are still much more prevalent – at least here in the Northeast. When I refer to “fuel sources,” I mean energy sources that can power systems, and heat is a particular focus since a heat source is required for a home to be safely habitable. You’re probably familiar with at least several of the most common fuel sources, but there are some that are common in areas that you may not even know exist. Let’s take a minute to go over some…

ELECTRICITY. If you aren’t Amish or living entirely off-grid, you’re well acquainted with electricity. It powers your lights, TVs, computers, many appliances and more, and it can serve as an energy source for your home’s entire heating system. A fully electric heating system utilizes electric baseboard heaters, an electric heat pump or boiler, in-floor and/or in-ceiling electric heat, and this type of system is very efficient since all wattage is actually used to generate heat. However, all-electric heat can be quite expensive, the systems can be prone to partial or full outages, and baseboard heaters can pose a hazard when drapes, cords or other items exist above or very close to them as they become very hot. Standard heat pumps are great in the right climate but can become less practical in very cold climates where less heat is available to be drawn in from outdoor air. The exception to the often high cost of electric heating is perhaps the most efficient option of all, which is an electric geothermal (ground source) heat pump, which takes on and disperses heat via the ground where the temperature is more constant – even during winter and periods of very low temperatures. Large homes with a geothermal system often have total electric bills under $300 per month, which is incredible considering that this figure includes all devices and not just the cost of heating and cooling. Another benefit of every electric heating system is a steady supply of power (provided there are no outages), meaning no manual deliveries need to be made to the home. While quite expensive, whole-house gas powered generators can also be installed to provide “backup” power in the event that a power outage occurs.

NATURAL GAS. Generally speaking, if a costly geothermal system isn’t an option, natural gas is typically the least expensive option to fuel most homes. Although not available in some areas, many homes are equipped with a natural gas supply; and like electricity, it comes into the house on a continual basis without having to be delivered manually. A downside to gas is the possibility of potentially hazardous gas leaks, which can be very dangerous (even fatal), although proper installation and periodic inspections can prevent this issue. Not long ago, we discovered a concerning gas leak during an inspection at a duplex that had been inspected and deemed fine just two days prior, and the unit with the leak was tenant occupied. To the credit of the gas company, they immediately owned their mistake and promptly sent a crew out to correct the problem and ensure the occupant’s safety. Despite the hazards inherent with combustible gases, nearly all homes we inspect with natural gas are free of leaks with well installed systems and components, and the low cost and plentiful availability of natural gas make it a great option for most homes.

PROPANE. Like natural gas, liquid propane (LP) is also a gas. However, unlike natural gas that comes into homes in a steady supply, propane has to be delivered. This means the propane level has to be monitored fairly often (usually with a tank gauge or fin), and the service provider has to be alerted when refills are necessary. Propane is usually fairly cost-effective, but it is more costly than natural gas, often near-equivalent to electricity per kilowatt hour, and usually cheaper than fuel oil.

FUEL OIL. This is a type of fuel source that is very common in our area but not at all common in many regions of the country. Like propane, fuel oil has to be manually delivered to homes that utilize it, and the oil level needs to be monitored by the homeowner – typically with a simple gauge at the oil storage tank(s). These gauges occasionally become faulty, but even a long yard stick can be used as a “dip stick” to check the oil level, similar to checking the oil level in a vehicle. Fuel oil produces a very hot heat that many people like, but oil also produces a smell some find unpleasant and usually costs a good bit more than other fuel sources. Unlike electric and natural gas bills that are paid monthly, fuel oil deliveries have to be paid in full at the time of delivery, which makes budgeting more difficult, although service providers nearly always offer discounts for purchasing more gallons at a time (for example, $3.89 per gallon for 100 gallons, $3.69 per gallon up to 199 gallons, and 3.49 for 200 gallons or more). Discounts are also available by most companies during off-peak seasons, like summer, so money can be saved by planning and budgeting wisely.

COAL & WOOD. Although different, these fuel sources are “lumped” together (get it?) because both are solid fuel options and can sometimes both be used in the same furnace or boiler. In fact, even fuel oil can be used in some systems that accept wood and coal, although such systems are rather rare. The benefit to coal and wood is that both burn hot and are fairly inexpensive (especially wood that can be obtained on one’s own property or for little to no cost from a friend), but both are also quite dirty and require manual work to load the solid fuel, stoke the fire and clean the resulting debris. Some people who utilize wood and coal enjoy the labor involved and like harkening back to an older time, but this requires the know-how, skill and time necessary to keep up with this type of system. It goes without saying, but coal and wood require manual delivery, which some find inconvenient.

Regardless of the type of HVAC system you have or plan to install, know that a high-efficiency system will save you a lot of money over the long run. Look for high AFUE ratings (90% and higher) for heating systems and high SEER ratings for A/C systems to ensure more of your money is actually being used to heat or cool your home. Almost as important is utilizing a programmable thermostat – preferably a modern “SMART” model that can be controlled remotely and tracks data related to usage habits – but be sure to actually program and monitor the stat. When it comes to upgrades that improve energy efficiency and have a quick return on investment (ROI), programmable thermostats rank among the highest and are really a no-brainer.

In many cases, homeowners are limited in their fuel options based on what’s available in their area and cost considerations. Hopefully this article has served as a helpful and informative guide as you seek to utilize your resources as best as possible in your own home, and feel free to comment if you still have questions or need further assistance!

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com/

Pest Treatment: Do You Need It?

While our most well-known company, Hill Property Inspections LLC, performs frequent pest inspections for wood-destroying insects, our partner company, Hill Pest Control LLC, also performs pest inspections for all types of pests and provides treatment. Countless homeowners are on contract with a pest control company to prevent unwanted invaders, but many are on the fence and question whether professional pest treatments are really necessary. For those who do recognize its importance, the question is how often treatments should be done and whether calling out (and paying for) a pro is really necessary. In this post, I’d like to take some time to go over the importance of professional pest control and answer some basic questions.

In reality, every property owner should have a concrete plan to manage unwanted pest intrusion; and that’s true whether you attempt to do it yourself or hire a professional who is trained in identifying and properly treating the myriad of insects, rodents, mites and other pests that plague countless homes and businesses nearly every day. Even if you feel confident you don’t have an active problem with pest intrusion, the chances are pretty high that you do.

We share our environment with an untold number of species, and in comparison we humans are unbelievably low in number. This is generally a good thing, as nature has a way of properly managing levels through predator-prey relationships, environmental influences and several other factors, but unacceptable levels of detrimental pests can quickly become a problem – even for those who normally aren’t too bothered by the occasional spider, stink bug, centipede or other “creepy critter.”

Many potential pests are of major benefit to us and are often taken for granted. Bees are perhaps the best and most obvious example, as they play a crucial role in pollinating and (in the case of honey bees) producing honey. Bats are another undervalued species and eat many insects to help keep population levels at bay. No one wants bats roosting in their attic, but those who recognize their importance sometimes place bat houses nearby to intentionally provide a suitable shelter. Again, it’s only when pests pose a threat to health, safety or structural integrity that they become problematic. And high pest levels can pose other threats, even outside our homes or businesses, like destruction of plants and being a constant nuisance when we’re trying to enjoy some relaxing time outdoors.

Unfortunately, problematic pest invasion happens all too often – especially at rural properties where insects, rodents, snakes and wildlife are naturally more plentiful. You may be tempted to try and treat these problems on your own with over-the-counter remedies or old-fashioned “tricks,” but these measures rarely prove effective – especially in the long run. Your expense, time and effort may result in a temporary and mild improvement, but it will almost certainly never compete with professional pest control that employs the most effective products, a wealth of knowledge, the best equipment, and a customized approach. We in the industry refer to this approach as integrated pest management (IPM), and it’s one of the main factors that separates a DIY-er from a true pro.

So, what are some of the most common problems resulting from unacceptable levels of pests? For one, wood-destroying insects (especially termites) can cause structural damage to wooden structural members that could lead to thousands of dollars in repair work, and this type of damage is usually not covered by homeowners insurance. Termites, alone, account for billions of dollars worth of damage every year in the U.S., and they eat at wood continually while often going largely unnoticed. Rodents are unsanitary, often carry disease, and can lurk in walls and other hidden spaces where they’re known to chew wiring and other components that could lead to a hazard. They also multiply quickly and can survive with very minimal amounts of food and water. Bed bugs, which have been on the rise in recent years, also multiply quickly and can live a very long time off one feeding, and their bites cause small, irritating bumps on the skin of people they feed off of. Mosquitos, likewise, leave itchy red bumps (as everyone knows), and they are known to carry pathogens that can be very harmful. Ticks are similar, as are fleas, and each is plentiful in certain areas. Roaches, which are among the oldest species on earth, are incredibly resilient and can survive through hardships that would easily kill many other insects, and they eat nearly everything (including other dead roaches). They’re also incredibly good at hiding – usually in kitchens – and you may have them now without even knowing and even if your home is kept fairly clean.

With so much at stake, attempting to go it alone for treatment is almost always a recipe for disaster. Proper and effective pest control involves so much more than purchasing a generic chemical and some traps or baits from a local store and then hoping you apply them correctly. It involves extensive knowledge, proper identification, formulation of a situation-specific plan, use of quality equipment, correct timing, and appropriate application along with ongoing monitoring. Exclusion work (especially sealing of cracks and crevices) is also very important and usually requires an experienced professional to do the work correctly and in all areas that could serve as common entry points. These areas can be very small, and most invaders – even mice and bats – can squeeze through tiny holes that seem too small for them to fit through.

When it comes down to it, playing the role of pest control technician on your own is rarely ever a good idea. Certain tasks are simply best left to the pros; and you’ll find that in the long run, paying a professional to do it right the first time (and thereafter) will ultimately save you money… and a great deal of stress.

So, be sure to get in touch with a reputable pest control company in your area for ongoing treatment. Whether you do or don’t have a current pest problem, scheduling an initial inspection and treatment, along with quarterly maintenance service, is a no-brainer and will help you rest at ease knowing your property and family are protected against the many unwanted pests that could cause you multiple problems. And be sure to opt for a quarterly plan as opposed to an annual or semi-annual treatment, as even the best products only last a few months on average, and you’ll almost certainly save money by getting on a plan. If you happen to be located in or around Cambria and Somerset Counties in southwestern Pennsylvania, feel free to reach out to us for a free consultation, or check us out at http://www.hillpest.com.

Radon Testing – No Basement

I’m writing this article in the hopes of clearing up what I’ve come to realize is one of the most common misconceptions among homeowners, home buyers and even realtors pertaining to the many services we provide. In fact, this misconception is so commonplace that if I had to choose only one topic to teach on to clarify something we do, this would probably be it. For some reason, this misconception has been so widely accepted and frequently regurgitated over time that it is now considered basic truth in the minds of many people, and that’s no small issue when the subject at hand deals with health.

I can’t even begin to count how many times we’ve heard clients or agents tell us that a home doesn’t need to be tested for radon because there is no basement. Some people believe that testing for radon is still important if there is a crawlspace, but hardly anyone views it as necessary when a home is on a slab. How this notion ever became so widely accepted is a bit of a mystery, but it probably stems mostly from the fact that many radon tests are conducted in basements and that certain areas of the country that have higher average radon levels (like here in Pennsylvania) are in climate zones that tend to have homes with basements.

So, let me take a moment to set the record straight, and I hope the following information will shed some valuable light on this very misunderstood issue. Here are a few facts that debunk the “only houses with basements need tested for radon” myth…

1. The EPA does not distinguish between foundation types when it comes to radon testing. According to A Citizen’s Guide to Radon, which is an informational EPA publication, “Any home may have a radon problem. This means new and old homes, well-sealed and drafty homes, and homes with or without basements” (pg. 4);

2. Some of the highest average radon levels we have obtained from short-term testing for real estate transactions have come from homes on slabs (please read this fact again);

3. While radon comes from uranium in soil and soil exists around and below basements, a home on a slab is located directly above soil and may still be very prone to a high average radon level;

4. Although testing is frequently done in basements of homes that have them, the rule is simply that testing should be conducted on the lowest livable level. For a home on a slab, this would simply be the first floor which, like a basement slab, is located directly above soil.

I noted earlier that this topic is important because it pertains to health. To put that in proper perspective, you should know that radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer, next to smoking, and it is invisible, odorless, colorless and tasteless. The only way to know your home’s radon level is to have it tested. Naturally, if your home has a slab or crawlspace foundation and you have bought into the myth that no basement means no need for testing, you’ll likely neglect to have your home tested, will never find out whether or not you have an elevated level, and may unknowingly be at risk.

If you’ve neglected to have your home’s radon level tested, I strongly encourage you to do so. If you’re a realtor who has assumed that testing is only necessary for homes with basements, please commit these facts to memory to help better educate your clients. It’s easy to assume something is true when it is widely accepted, but this issue is important enough that it warrants a course correction if you’ve accepted the “no basement means no test” rule – especially when that myth should never have evolved in the first place.

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