Sump Pump Selection: What Size, Type & Backup System Do You Need?

A “double tap” is when two wires are under the same lug (screw) in an electrical panel. As an inspector, I see double taps all the time, and I’d like to address the issue to provide some clarification for anyone who has seen this issue come up in their home inspection report.

In my neck of the woods, double taps are very common. In fact, very few panels that I inspect are free of double taps. Often times, they exist because the electrician simply ran out of room in the panel, but other times there’s plenty of space and the double taps are an indication of sheer laziness on the part of the electrician. Double taps can exist at breakers with hot (black) wires or at bus bars with neutral wires. Double tapping is permitted with two grounding wires but not with hot or neutral wires. Neutral wires are frequently double tapped with grounding wires, and this is also prohibited. This is because hot and neutral wires are energized (have continual electrical current) and need a secure connection for the electrons to move along their intended path. The metal screws provide this secure connection, and placing two or more wires under the same lug makes it less likely that a completely secure connection can exist.

Without a secure connection of energized lines, arcing and other shock or fire hazards are more likely to occur. If a panel has run out of room and another circuit is desired, it’s relatively easy and inexpensive for an electrician to simply add another hot wire to a breaker. Likewise, if a bar is full with neutral and ground wires, the most simple and cost effective way to solve the problem is to just double up the wires. Unfortunately, these options, while simple, are prohibited for safety reasons.

If there is not enough space in the panel to avoid double tapping, the best options (which comply with modern safety standards) are to either add a sub panel that feeds off the main panel or to upgrade the existing panel to a greater service amperage. Either option will solve the problem of double tapping and prevent shock and/or fire hazards if done correctly.

Now, I will tell you that most of my electrician friends don’t see much harm in double tapping neutral wires with other neutral or ground wires. You should be aware, though, that these types of double taps are prohibited by the NEC (National Electrical Code), and if there’s one thing I’ve learned as an inspector it’s that codes exist for good reasons. They make sense, ensure safety, and despite popular opinion, are not usually burdensome or unreasonable.

If your panel contains double taps of black hot wires or white neutral wires, you should consider having a qualified electrician make necessary repairs to ensure safety. Yes, it’s possible that you may never have a problem, but it’s always better to be safe than sorry.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com

Let me start this post by making it clear that nothing can replace a pest inspection conducted by a well-trained and experienced professional inspector. Still, there are some things every homeowner can do to periodically check for pests on their own.

When I use the term “pests” as an inspector, I am primarily referring to wood-destroying insects (WDI) that can potentially damage structure. Other pests can certainly be a nuisance, but they will not slowly but surely destroy your home. Wood-destroying insects, such as termites, carpenter ants, carpenter bees, and powderpost beetles, on the other hand, can (and do) cause substantial damage that amounts to a lot of money in repair work each year.

For starters, be sure that no wood is against the exterior of your house. People often place piles of firewood against their houses, but this is an inviting area for wood-destroying insects and should be avoided. Likewise, vegetation should not be right up against the structure because it, too, is an ideal environment for pests. So, step one is making sure that the conditions around your house are not conducive for WDI.

Next, you can check your window and door sills for any insect parts, like wings. Certain wood-destroying insects swarm (fly away to create new colonies) and their wings are often found after swarming has occurred. Tap on the wood trim around windows and doors, baseboards, and so on, and see if you can hear a buzzing sound from a group of insects. If you come across any areas of soft wood, it may be an indication of WDI damage. If you see mud tubes, which look just like they sound, you know you have a current or previous problem.

A can of compressed air is a very useful tool for checking for pests of all kinds. Place the narrow tube into the nozzle on the can and spray any areas where insects are most likely to be (the bottom of siding, trim, electrical and plumbing penetrations, etc. Use a mirror with an extendable neck to see behind hard-to-reach areas. Check areas where dampness may be an issue (under sink cabinets, in the basement and attic, and so forth) to ensure there are no signs of WDI.

If you thoroughly evaluate your home with these steps, you will have completed a pretty thorough pest inspection on your own. If you do come across any wood-destroying insects or suspect you may have, be sure to contact a qualified exterminator for immediate treatment.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com

 

Most people immediately panic when they see cracks of any kind in a home, assuming the house is on the brink of collapse. While this may be the case in rare occasions, most cracks are not a cause for immediate concern.

You would think that houses settle most as they get older, but houses actually tend to settle most in the first several years after they’re built. Think of a new pair of shoes or a baseball glove that need broken in before they have “settled” into that place of perfect comfort. Once the house “breaks in” to the soil, so to speak, the settling typically mellows out and takes much longer to occur over time.

Regardless of the age of your home, you’re likely to see at least some minor cracks in places, and you should know the basics of how to determine whether they are normal or something to be concerned about. As a general rule, horizontal cracks – especially in foundation walls – are of greater concern than vertical cracks. This is because horizontal cracks often indicate lateral movement where the foundation wall is being pressed inward from soil pressure. As the soil surrounding the foundation swells with water, pressure is exerted on the foundation walls and horizontal cracking toward the center of the wall often occurs. This is one of the reasons why preventing water intrusion at the foundation is so vitally important. If the soil beneath the corner or center of a concrete block wall experiences heaving (upward force), you may notice step cracking, which, as its name suggests, resembles a stair case pattern along the mortar joints of the cinder blocks. If a large, jagged crack is present and wider at the top than the bottom, it indicates upheaval of the soil near the center of the wall. If the crack is wider at the bottom, it indicates upheaval at the corners.

It is common to see some small cracks on interior walls above the foundation. You may see them, in particular, near corners of doorways or windows, and often running more diagonally than straight up and down. This is usually not an immediate cause for concern, but you can follow the crack down and examine the underlying structure to see if any foundation issues exist that may require further evaluation or repair. If your roof is composed of trusses, you may see some cracks near the center of the ceiling/walls from a phenomenon known as “truss lift” where the top chords of trusses expand and bow out, pulling the center of the bottom chords up and away from the center of the house.

When cracking seems severe, checking your windows and doors can also provide some additional clues. If settling is significant, your doors and windows may be out of balance and especially difficult to open and close due to movement and shifting of their frames. You can usually see and not just feel this because uneven gaps may be visible – particularly around doors.

If you see cracks, or if some arise over time, don’t panic and assume your house is bound to cave in. In most cases, that’s not the most likely scenario. However, you should be diligent about periodically examining your home for any concerning cracks and should consult a qualified foundation contractor or structural engineer if any major or concerning cracks arise. When it comes to structural issues, it’s always better to be safe than sorry, but you should also understand that every house will settle over time and not every indication of settling is a sign of impending disaster.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com

In a previous post, I discussed the importance of air sealing in addition to insulating for improved energy efficiency. In this post, we’ll look into that in more detail with receptacles and switches.

Believe it or not, receptacles (outlets) and switches are one of the main culprits for leaking air in most homes. This makes sense really, considering that there are usually many receptacles and switches in a house and that the wall areas surrounding them are usually insulated while these areas usually aren’t. Air can easily enter and exit the house through these many small areas, and the toll this takes on efficiency is much greater than you might assume.

A common remedy to this problem is installing foam gaskets made for the receptacle or switch plates, but unfortunately these easy fixes don’t always do the best job. A better option (and one you can do in addition to the foam) is spray foaming around the boxes that contain the receptacles or switches. This is very effective at air sealing these small spaces and helps more than you might think in stopping air leakage and improving the energy efficiency of your home.

When you can spare about half a day, take the time to complete this simple but very helpful project. It’s cheap and easy and the rewards will really pay off.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com

In a prior post, I discussed some common defects found with chimneys. In this post, I’ll give you one important tip to keep your chimney in good working order.

If you have a chimney, it should be serviced at least annually by a qualified chimney sweep. I have to admit that even I still think of Dick Van Dyke’s character, Bert, in Mary Poppins when I hear the term “chimney sweep,” but these professionals are all but old and obsolete! They are a very valuable resource for a very important component of your home.

Hiring a chimney sweep for annual maintenance is especially important if you own and use a wood-burning fireplace, but it is still important if you own a chimney at all. Chimneys serve a simple but extremely important purpose of removing exhaust gases from the house. Often times they have the added bonus of being a decorative focal point as well, but their pretty exterior can cause us to easily forget how they may look on the inside.

Don’t make the mistake of neglecting your chimney. Schedule annual cleanings in advance by a qualified chimney expert so you can rest at ease knowing your chimney is in good condition and performing well.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com