Sump Pump Selection: What Size, Type & Backup System Do You Need?

Here in Pennsylvania, the terrain is very hilly. It’s common for houses to sit on a hill and for the basement at the front or back of the house to be underground while the other side is a “walk-out” basement to open land. This creates some challenges for the side of the house that the hill runs into because it is in the direct path of rain water.

If your house sits on a hill, there is fortunately a relatively easy fix to prevent water intrusion at the foundation. It’s called a swale, and it will do a great job of protecting your home for a fairly minimal investment in time and cost.

A swale is a shallow ditch or trench that is carved out of the hill near the house, which provides an area for water to drain into. The swale is carved out in a “V” shape, and the water enters along the downward sloping side of the ditch but cannot move upwards along the other side. Of course, if rain levels are substantial the water could fill the swale and pour over, but this is not typical with normal amounts of rain and when the swale is deep enough. Water may temporarily collect in the swale creating a long and possibly unsightly puddle, but this is a better option than allowing the water to run right against your foundation and potentially into your basement where it can cause substantial structural damage over time.

While you could certainly dig a swale on your own, the effort to do so is counter-productive for most homeowners, and the better option to guarantee a job well done is to hire a qualified excavation contractor who is capable of assessing the landscape and determining the best location, length and depth of the swale.

If your house sits on a hill and is the victim of frequent water intrusion on one side, consider adding a swale to the ground on the upward side to prevent further problems. Hire an experienced excavator to assess the lot and dig the swale so you know the job is done right. This solution is simple and will help your foundation immensely.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com

Nearly every home inspection I perform includes a pest inspection. Believe it or not, lenders don’t require home inspections (although everyone buying a home should certainly have it done), but they often do require a pest inspection – especially if you are getting an FHA or VA loan.

The natural question that enters every buyer’s mind is, “What types of ‘pests’ is the inspector looking for?” Is it any and every possible type of pest or only certain types? This is an important question and one you should know the answer to before your pest inspection takes place.

While there are countless potential pests that could be present in any home, it is only wood-destroying pests that we inspectors are looking for and concerned about. This is because these are the pests that can cause substantial damage to a home and a lot of money in repairs. In fact, termites alone cause billions of dollars worth of damage every year!

Some of the most common wood-destroying organisms are termites, powderpost beetles, carpenter ants, and carpenter bees. Depending on what region you live in, you may be at a greater risk for having problems with certain wood-destroying insects, and your inspector should be familiar with the species most prevalent in your area. For example, if you live in the South you have a greater risk of having a termite infestation than if you live in the North, but northern homeowners can certainly still have termite problems.

Many pests exist in nearly every home, but most are not wood-destroying. Spiders, bees, flies, mice and centipedes, for example, can be found in or near most homes, but these pests do not substantially damage structure and are, therefore, not within the scope of a typical pest inspection. Without knowing this, you may feel your inspector didn’t do his or her job when your pest inspection report comes back clean and you move in only to find spider webs and mouse droppings in the house and a bee hive being constructed at the overhang of your roof peak.

We live in a world of abundant and diverse species, and there is unfortunately no way to rid any house of any and all pests. As a homeowner, your main concern in terms of your home’s integrity and your investment should be the wood-destroying organisms that an inspection attempts to discover. If your pest inspection report recommends further evaluation and/or treatment, be sure to take action immediately so your house doesn’t sustain substantial and costly damage, and don’t be upset with your inspector for not reporting every single “pest” that may be present.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com

 

If you live in a rural area, chances are you have a septic system. Septic systems are generally very effective at managing household waste in a safe and environmentally friendly way, but they do need to be properly maintained if you want to avoid very messy and costly repairs. In this article, I’ll go over the basics of how a septic system works as well as some “do”s and “don’t”s if you own one.

A typical septic system consists of a septic tank that the house waste water travels to, a distribution, or “D,” box to distribute the waste water (effluent) after it leaves the tank, and a leachfield where the remaining water leaches out into the soil. In a properly functioning system, waste is broken down naturally and without causing harm to the environment or human health.

The waste that enters into the septic tank from the toilets and drain lines in the house settles into one of three layers. Solids settle at the bottom of the tank and form what’s called the “sludge” layer. Oils, greases and other lighter materials float to the top to form the “scum” layer. Liquid waste remains in the middle “effluent” layer between the sludge and scum. With all the waste that goes into the tank, it’s hard to believe septic tanks don’t need pumped more often, but this is because bacteria naturally eats away at the waste and keeps the level low.

Bacteria is a vital part of the process, and nothing should be done to kill the bacteria that is needed to manage and break down waste in the tank. If your washing machine ultimately drains into your tank, it should be rerouted as the detergent can kill bacteria and render the tank ineffective.

As a general rule, septic tanks should be pumped at least once every three to five years, although this depends on usage, the number of household members, and other factors. If the tank is inspected and either the scum or sludge layer is equal to or greater than one-third the total depth of the tank, pumping should be done. The process for inspecting the tank is relatively simple but poses health risks and should, therefore, only be done by a qualified professional.

It goes without saying, but nothing other than normal human waste should be put into any toilets or drains that will end up in the tank. Most septic system owners are aware of this simple rule, yet many break the rule often. Some diligent homeowners (especially ones who have had issues with their septic systems) put written notices above their toilets to remind family members and guests to not flush foreign objects or other inappropriate items that can obstruct the septic system.

Knowing how your septic system works will enable you to manage and care for it effectively and avoid unnecessary and expensive repairs. Follow the basic rules outlined in this article and schedule periodic inspections of your system and pumping, and you can rest at ease knowing your household waste is effectively and safely managed.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com

Most homeowners know that it’s important to clean the lint trap in their dryer every time they do a load of laundry, but many people don’t know much about the other components that make up their dryer ventilation system.

Beyond the dryer’s lint trap, there is vent piping that leads from the back of the dryer to the exterior of the house and a vent cover mounted on the outside of the house. These components exist so that the exhaust from the dryer has a way of traveling outside while (hopefully) preventing vermin and other items from entering. However, these items are often not installed in a way that promotes maximum safety and energy efficiency.

Dryer vent piping is often flexible. Flexible piping is permitted and is often used because it is easy to work with, but rigid vent piping is preferred. This is because rigid piping is more solid so it is less prone to damage. In addition, rigid piping helps the dryer run more efficiently. The only downside is that rigid piping is a bit more complicated to install, which is why most homeowners opt for the flexible option, especially if they are installing it on their own. The use of flexible vent piping is not a defect, but it is not as good an option as rigid pipe.

A common defect, however, is found with exterior vent covers. Covers designed for bathroom vents are often used for dryers, and these vents contain screens. Screens may help in preventing things from entering from the exterior, but they also tend to trap lint which clogs the cover and can eventually cause obstruction that prevents the dryer exhaust from exiting to the exterior. A proper vent cover for a dryer should not have a screen but should, instead, have a flap (or multiple flaps) that opens when exhaust is forced through and otherwise remains closed. The appropriate term for this type of vent cover is a “louvered” vent cover. This allows for proper and complete exhaust while preventing the entrance of unwanted items from the outdoors.

Check your dryer vent cover to be sure it isn’t screened, and replace it if it is. In addition, consider replacing flexible dryer vent piping with rigid pipe to increase the efficiency of your dryer and lessen the risk of damage to the pipe. These simple tasks, along with continual cleaning of the lint trap, will ensure that your dryer is working as intended and that your family is safer.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com

Many of my clients ask for my advice regarding if and how to negotiate with sellers in repairing any defects uncovered during their home inspection. In reality, this is a question best directed to the real estate agents involved, but I will address some basic thoughts regarding this question for anyone who either isn’t working with a realtor or is also wondering how to negotiate after receiving their home inspection report.

First, I would encourage anyone selling or purchasing a home to find and work with an experienced and knowledgeable real estate agent. Yes, it will cost some money, but realtors exist to provide professional help with a process that is rather complicated and overwhelming for most people who cannot easily navigate through the hurdles of real estate transactions on their own. While I am confident that my brief advice in this article would be echoed by any real estate agent, I encourage you to consult an agent regarding any issues related to this topic and to heed their advice as a priority.

That being said, I will give my “two cents” as a home inspector who witnesses various facets of real estate transacting often. In my experience, it is generally not advisable to demand that sellers make repairs that they have already disclosed in the seller’s disclosure. These are defects that the seller is aware of and has been upfront and honest in disclosing to potential buyers, and their asking price for the home presumably takes these existing defects into account. To demand that sellers repair defects they have fully disclosed is generally inappropriate.

Upon receiving your home inspection report as a buyer, you will likely see several defects not listed in the seller’s disclosure, and these defects are typically things that the seller was simply not aware of because most homeowners are not trained to thoroughly evaluate a home the way we inspectors are. Most of the defects on your report will probably be minor, while a couple may be more major. Major defects are concerns that pose more serious concerns, such as safety issues, major structural damage, active leaking, or your ability to insure or legally occupy the home.

Major defects that are uncovered by the inspection but not disclosed by the seller are issues you may wish to address in negotiating with the seller. In general, the several less significant defects are issues you will likely want to plan on taking care of yourself as part of your total investment as the new owner of the home.

Last but not least, you should understand that the main purpose of a home inspection is to provide you with a general and objective overview of the property’s condition so you are better prepared in making your purchasing decision prior to closing. That may, of course, lead to some negotiating, but a home inspection is not meant primarily to be a tool for making demands.

Focus on the “big” issues that arise from your home inspection if and when you attempt to negotiate with sellers, and heed the advice of a trusted real estate agent who is trained to represent and guide you in your home buying journey. Questions pertaining to financial decisions are best directed to realtors or real estate attorneys, whereas questions about defects on your inspection report are best directed to your home inspector.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com