Sump Pump Selection: What Size, Type & Backup System Do You Need?

A defect most commonly found in older homes is too short of a height at stairways. Occasionally, the distance between the stair treads and ceiling above is less than the minimum standard of 6 feet, 8 inches. Most often, this occurs at the base or top of the stairway.

The 6’8” requirement exists for obvious reasons – to provide plenty of clearance so people don’t hit their heads on the ceiling. If you’re curious how high a height of 6 feet, 8 inches is, just picture a standard interior door. It, too, is a standard 6’8” high (and for the same reason of ensuring safety).

If you live in or are buying a home that happens to have ceilings too low above stairs, you are obviously not going to tear apart the house and do extensive and very costly remodeling to meet the modern height standard. What you can do though, is take measures to ensure safety as much as possible. If the staircase is in an unfinished basement and you don’t care much about how the space looks, you may want to consider hanging a caution sign as a reminder or warning to others.

There are several things you can do to promote safety in spite of the otherwise unsafe condition, and you should prioritize safety if your staircase height is less than the modern standard. At the very least, you should be sure that staircases with low ceilings have lighting, solid treads with no trip hazards, and graspable handrails. A height less than 6’8” should not be a deal breaker, but you should take measures to ensure safety any time conditions exist that have been proven over time to not be safe.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com

The electrical panel is a vital component of a home inspection, but I have come across several panels that I could not inspect due to obstructions blocking access to the panel. It goes without saying that nothing should be obstructing an electrical panel to the point where it can’t even be accessed, but I’d like to take a moment to go over the minimum required clearances for panels so you know how much space you should have, at a minimum, in case you need to access yours.

The height between the floor and ceiling where the panel is located should be at least 6-1/2 feet. This height is perfectly comfortable for most people and requires even very tall people to crouch just a bit. There should be at least 3 feet of open space directly in front of the panel so that even a larger than average person has enough room to stand. Lastly, the horizontal width at the panel should be a minimum of 30 inches to accommodate space for observing or working at the panel.

Keep in mind that these clearances are minimum requirements and not a goal. Ideally, the height, depth and width would be more than these minimums to ensure a comfortable amount of working space. You should measure the clearances around your electrical panel to be sure they are compliant and avoid placing any obstructions near the panel that would violate these minimum requirements. Doing so may prove very valuable if there’s ever an emergency and you need quick access to your panel.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com

In addition to chimneys, ventilation is needed for kitchens and bathrooms to remove and/or filter exhaust from within your home. Ideally, ventilation would always be to the exterior so that exhaust gases and moisture could be removed from the house entirely. However, this is often not the case. In this post, we’ll look at a common but prohibited method for ventilation that should be corrected if it exists in your home.

Kitchen ranges are often vented with recirculating ventilation from an above-range microwave or vent hood. These systems are very common and do a decent job, but as mentioned previously, venting to the exterior is always preferred when possible. Bathroom ventilation is where the defect typically comes into play, and that’s the focus of this article.

Unlike kitchen ventilation, which exists to remove and filter cooking gases, moisture and residue, bathroom ventilation serves the primary purpose of removing moisture. The exhaust piping for bathroom vent fans (mechanical ventilation) is routed into the attic space. Unfortunately, many contractors become lazy and stop there. The vent piping should extend through the roof and to the exterior so that the moisture is removed from the home entirely.

Of course, continuing the vent piping through the roof adds a whole new set of unwanted challenges for the contractor. It requires him or her to cut a hole through the roof decking, run the extra piping, and then seal and reshingle around the penetration. Not only that, but the duct should also be insulated to prevent condensation from forming and causing moisture problems. As you can imagine, this extra work is not exactly a dream job for contractors, and many simply leave the vent piping open in the attic if the attic isn’t finished. They assume that homeowners are too ignorant to know that this is improper and that it will really be fine (and go unnoticed).

As you can imagine, though, this simpler method is anything but “fine.” Rather than moisture exhausting outdoors as it should, it exhausts directly into the attic space where it contributes to high humidity, moisture buildup, and eventually mold or even rotten wood framing members. In addition, the indoor air quality inside the home will often be diminished without the homeowner even realizing it. It can also saturate insulation making it less effective at performing its job of preventing air movement to reduce the transfer of heat. Granted, it may take a while for these problems to become significant and noticeable, but they will eventually become worse and worse over time if the ventilation is not fixed.

If you have an unfinished attic and a vent fan in your bathroom(s), you should check your attic to make sure the vent ducts are all exiting through the roof. If you notice any that are terminating directly into the attic space, you should contact a qualified contractor to correct the problem by properly extending the vent piping through the roof, insulating it, and sealing the penetration(s) well. This will improve your indoor air quality, the performance of your insulation and energy efficiency, and prevent unwanted mold and other moisture related problems.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com

Here in Pennsylvania, the terrain is very hilly. It’s common for houses to sit on a hill and for the basement at the front or back of the house to be underground while the other side is a “walk-out” basement to open land. This creates some challenges for the side of the house that the hill runs into because it is in the direct path of rain water.

If your house sits on a hill, there is fortunately a relatively easy fix to prevent water intrusion at the foundation. It’s called a swale, and it will do a great job of protecting your home for a fairly minimal investment in time and cost.

A swale is a shallow ditch or trench that is carved out of the hill near the house, which provides an area for water to drain into. The swale is carved out in a “V” shape, and the water enters along the downward sloping side of the ditch but cannot move upwards along the other side. Of course, if rain levels are substantial the water could fill the swale and pour over, but this is not typical with normal amounts of rain and when the swale is deep enough. Water may temporarily collect in the swale creating a long and possibly unsightly puddle, but this is a better option than allowing the water to run right against your foundation and potentially into your basement where it can cause substantial structural damage over time.

While you could certainly dig a swale on your own, the effort to do so is counter-productive for most homeowners, and the better option to guarantee a job well done is to hire a qualified excavation contractor who is capable of assessing the landscape and determining the best location, length and depth of the swale.

If your house sits on a hill and is the victim of frequent water intrusion on one side, consider adding a swale to the ground on the upward side to prevent further problems. Hire an experienced excavator to assess the lot and dig the swale so you know the job is done right. This solution is simple and will help your foundation immensely.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com

Nearly every home inspection I perform includes a pest inspection. Believe it or not, lenders don’t require home inspections (although everyone buying a home should certainly have it done), but they often do require a pest inspection – especially if you are getting an FHA or VA loan.

The natural question that enters every buyer’s mind is, “What types of ‘pests’ is the inspector looking for?” Is it any and every possible type of pest or only certain types? This is an important question and one you should know the answer to before your pest inspection takes place.

While there are countless potential pests that could be present in any home, it is only wood-destroying pests that we inspectors are looking for and concerned about. This is because these are the pests that can cause substantial damage to a home and a lot of money in repairs. In fact, termites alone cause billions of dollars worth of damage every year!

Some of the most common wood-destroying organisms are termites, powderpost beetles, carpenter ants, and carpenter bees. Depending on what region you live in, you may be at a greater risk for having problems with certain wood-destroying insects, and your inspector should be familiar with the species most prevalent in your area. For example, if you live in the South you have a greater risk of having a termite infestation than if you live in the North, but northern homeowners can certainly still have termite problems.

Many pests exist in nearly every home, but most are not wood-destroying. Spiders, bees, flies, mice and centipedes, for example, can be found in or near most homes, but these pests do not substantially damage structure and are, therefore, not within the scope of a typical pest inspection. Without knowing this, you may feel your inspector didn’t do his or her job when your pest inspection report comes back clean and you move in only to find spider webs and mouse droppings in the house and a bee hive being constructed at the overhang of your roof peak.

We live in a world of abundant and diverse species, and there is unfortunately no way to rid any house of any and all pests. As a homeowner, your main concern in terms of your home’s integrity and your investment should be the wood-destroying organisms that an inspection attempts to discover. If your pest inspection report recommends further evaluation and/or treatment, be sure to take action immediately so your house doesn’t sustain substantial and costly damage, and don’t be upset with your inspector for not reporting every single “pest” that may be present.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com