Sump Pump Selection: What Size, Type & Backup System Do You Need?

We all admire stately trees that add character and a sense of grandeur to properties. Large trees are typically very old and have a story all their own that likely dates back before the house even existed on the land.

Despite their grandeur and beauty, though, large trees are unfortunately a potential hazard to many homes. Their roots can grow very large and widespread underground, pressing against the foundation and causing structural damage over time. Their long limbs can extend out over roofs, sometimes touching the roof surface, and causing damage from continual friction or impact if they fall off. It’s hard to believe, but even very large trees can fall over in a bad storm – especially if the tree is dead or has other rot or damage.

As a general rule, tree limbs should be kept 10 feet or farther from a roof’s surface. Ideally, the limbs would not overhang the roof at all. While it is easy to see a tree’s limbs, however, it is not so easy to see or determine how large or far-spread its root system is. If a large tree sits very close to the structure, you can be sure its roots are likely very close to (if not in direct contact with) the foundation.

If your property contains a large tree near your house, you should maintain its limbs, at the very least. Be sure they are no closer than 10 feet from the roof and that no limbs are overhanging the roof surface. While large trees are beautiful and add character, your safety and the integrity of your home are far more important.

You may find yourself in the unfortunate situation of having to consider removing the tree (or several trees) entirely. Like every living thing in life, they must come to an end at some point. If you find yourself in this situation, contact a reputable tree service that can assess the tree’s potential impact on the house and trim or remove it entirely, if necessary.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com

Many people – even some contractors – have a hard time deciding when it’s best to use nails or screws for certain applications. In this short post, I hope to set the record straight so that you (the reader) know the answer.

Nowadays, people tend to gravitate toward screws for most applications; and, indeed, developments in screws have produced some very appealing pieces of the popular hardware that make certain types of screws very appealing. I remember my first time driving a GRK screw into a board and being in shock at how effortlessly the screw went in. Still, nails do have their place, and understanding when to use nails or screws begins with understanding the pros and cons of each.

Nails possess more shear strength than screws. As a nail is twisted or bent it will withstand stress far longer than a screw will under the same force. For this reason, nails are a better option for the framing members of a structure because these members go through twisting and bending as the structure endures force from different directions over time.

Screws, however, possess more tensile strength than nails. Tensile strength refers to a fastener’s ability to remain attached to another component under pressure from tension. Think of two pieces pushed together, side-by-side. Screws used in combination with an adhesive are especially effective at holding components together.

Decks are a good example of where each type of fastener should be used. Nails should be used for the framing members, such as support posts, girders and joists, that will endure load from multiple angles, especially from downward force. Screws are a better option, though, for securing the decking boards to the underlying framing members as they will do a better job of keeping the boards attached to the support system beneath.

So, as a general rule, framing components should be secured with nails, and materials attached to framing members should be secured with screws. The bottom and top plates and studs of a wall are best secured with nails, but the plywood or OSB sheathing attached to the walls are best secured with screws. The trusses or rafters and ridge beam of a roof are best secured with nails, whereas the roof decking is best attached to those members with screws.

To determine the appropriate type and size of nails or screws, consult your local building codes. This information is easy to find and readily accessible.

Hopefully this post has helped you decipher the nails versus screws debate. Both have their place, and it’s important to know when to use each to have a well-built home that will withstand the many pressures exerted on it over time.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com

 

Floor joists often contain notches or bored holes to accommodate wiring, plumbing pipes and duct work. Unfortunately, notches and holes are not always done properly – especially in older homes – and in such cases the joists’ structural integrity may be compromised. In this article we will review the modern requirements for notches and holes in joists so you can evaluate your own for stability.

First of all, all joists have a maximum span based on the size, species of wood, and other factors. Span tables are easy to come by, and the architect who designed your home and the general contractor who built it should have ensured the proper joists were planned and used.

Assuming your joists are the appropriate size and wood species for their spans, we will focus on the general rules for holes and notches. In general, notching should not be done in the middle one-third of the joist. This is because the middle section is the most prone to bending under pressure and notching in this area reduces the joist’s strength in a crucial section. Holes are allowed in the middle, but they too should be avoided in the middle third whenever possible. If notching is done in the outer thirds, the notch should not be greater than one-sixth the depth of the joist. For example, if a joist is 2×10 (in which case its depth is actually closer to nine inches than ten), a notch should not exceed 1-1/2 inches, which is one-sixth of the 9” depth. For all notches, the notch should not be carved out in a square or rectangular shape as the 90-degree corners tend to cause cracking in the wood. Instead, the notch should have angled or rounded edges which perform better under stress from load.

Often times, notching must be done at the ends of joists at the top of foundation walls. This is permitted, but the notch depth at the ends should not exceed one-fourth the depth of the joist and the notch length (horizontally) should not exceed one-third the joist depth.

The rule for holes in joists is a bit more lenient than the rule for notching because removing sections of wood from the edges of joists compromises their strength more than removing wood near the center. Holes should have a diameter that is one-third the depth of the joist or less. In the same 9” deep 2×10 joist, any hole should be 3 inches in diameter, at most, which is one-third of the 9” depth. Of course, if the hole can accommodate what it needs to with a smaller diameter, it should be cut as small as possible to avoid compromising the joist’s strength more than necessary. Holes should generally be located near the middle of the joist’s depth and should be at least 2 inches from the top or bottom edge. Likewise, no notches or holes should be within 2 inches of other notches or holes. If you see several holes or notches in a small area and close to others, you know it’s likely a problem.

If you examine the joists in your home and notice any defects that do not follow the rules listed here, it may be possible to reinforce the compromised areas. It’s a good idea, however, to consult a qualified structural engineer in such cases to ensure your flooring system is structurally sound.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com

Every year many injuries, and even deaths, are reported as the result of failing decks. In most cases, these tragedies occur with higher decks that are elevated quite a ways off the ground and from excessive weight (load) being placed on the deck at one time. Higher decks obviously require more care in the design and building phases than decks that sit close to ground level. In this post, I will review some of the main safety and structural requirements for elevated decks so you can be sure your deck is safe and sound for your next family gathering.

First of all, your deck should be made of either treated lumber of composite decking. If you have hired a professional to construct your deck this point should not be an issue at all, but homeowners attempting to build their own deck as a DIY project may use dimensional lumber without knowing this information. Untreated dimensional lumber is not rated for exposure to the elements and will fail before long if used.

If the deck is 6 feet or higher off the ground, 6×6 posts should be used for support rather than 4x4s, and cross bracing (angled bracing) should be used to increase lateral stability and prevent sway. The posts should rest on or be imbedded in concrete piers that extend below the frost line, and this depth varies depending on your region and climate zone. This will ensure that the deck is not affected by frost heave as the ground freezes and thaws with seasonal weather changes. Ideally, the concrete piers will extend several inches above ground so the wood posts are not in direct contact with soil.

A deck can either be attached to the house as part of the structure, or unattached, in which case it is referred to as a “floating” deck because it stands on its own. In my personal opinion, floating decks are the better option because they prevent several common issues associated with attached decks; but since attached decks are still more common I will focus on them here.

Decks attached to the house are attached by what’s called a ledger board. Unfortunately, ledger boards are hardly ever installed properly, and defects with ledger boards are a main cause of deck failures. First, the ledger board should be at least a 2×8 and should be attached with appropriate weather-rated fasteners (such as 1/2” or larger thru bolts) that extend fully through the board and rim joist. Proper location and spacing of bolts is essential to provide adequate support of the ledger board and prevent it from pulling away from the structure. Z flashing should be installed at the ledger board to direct water away from the structure and prevent rot of the wood. In my experience, it is unfortunately not too common to see all of these requirements in place and done properly.

Deck joists, like traditional floor joists, should be hung on the ends with joist hangers, and they should typically be spaced 16 inches on-center (O.C.) just like regular joists. The actual deck boards should span far distances as solid pieces, and short pieces of board should not be used. Installing deck boards perpendicular to joists is the easiest method, but installing them at a diagonal increases stability and adds visual appeal. In addition, a small gap should exist between the deck boards to allow for expansion and contraction and adequate drainage of water from the deck’s surface.

If the deck is intended to support large groups of people or heavy objects like a hot tub, extra support will likely be needed to support the additional load. Joists may need to be doubled and/or additional posts may be needed under the area where a hot tub will be, for example. A structural engineer should be consulted to ensure the deck design is suitable for supporting the intended load requirements.

Deck stairs often have many problems as well, but two of the most common are open risers and improper handrails. Risers that are greater than 4 inches high (and they almost always are) should not be open. They should have a board in place, just like an interior stairway. Likewise, a 2×6 handrail is not safe as it is too wide to be easily grasped if someone were to fall and needed to grab the railing quickly. The spindles, or balusters, of the railings should be no more than about 4 inches apart, which is yet another safety measure. Railings should be at least 36 inches high as a general rule, and if the deck is especially high, 42 inches (6” higher than the normal minimum) is preferred as a means of extra safety.

As you can see, deck construction comes with many stringent requirements, but they exist for good reason and help ensure safety. Given the many injuries and deaths that result from insecure, poorly built decks each year, it is a good idea to look over your deck (or better yet, have it professionally inspected) so you can rest at ease knowing it is stable and your family and friends will be safe.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com

Believe it or not, the standards of practice for home inspectors only require that we inspect roofs from the ground with binoculars. Several realtors have expressed to me their frustration when they discuss the importance of a roof being inspected to a client only to receive an inspection report that states the roof was either too high and steep to be inspected or inspected from a distance at ground level, which (of course) means defects may easily be missed.

It goes without saying, but inspecting a roof from the ground with binoculars is practically worthless. Ideally, every roof would be physically walked on and inspected up close and personal, as it is such a vital component of a home and the first line of defense against water intrusion that can cause so much damage. Still, some roofs are simply too high and/or steep to safely be walked on for a thorough inspection.

Fortunately, these hindrances have become a thing of the past for we inspectors who use drones for inspecting roofs. Drones allow us to get “up close and personal” with any roof, no matter how high, steep or complex, and they allow us to take high-definition photos, and even videos, of the roof from angles we wouldn’t otherwise be able to achieve. I love seeing many of my clients’ reactions when I show them drone photos of the roof near the end of the inspection and they comment on “cool” the aerial shots taken by the drone are. The pictures are so neat that they seem to momentarily care more about the pictures than the actual condition of the roof!

Here at HPI we still walk every roof we can, but by using drone technology we are able to thoroughly inspect any roof, in detail, and never have to do our clients the disservice of providing a report that doesn’t include a thorough inspection of one of the most crucial components of the home they are hoping to buy.

Before hiring a home inspector, be sure to ask about their procedures for inspecting roofs and if they use a drone for inspecting roofs that are unsafe to walk on. Many inspectors (especially older ones who have been around a while) are very experienced and knowledgeable, but they often do not use newer technology for assisting with inspections. From an inspection standpoint, technology is definitely “the future” and a great asset for inspectors who wisely choose to use it.

Nothing can replace the experience of a skilled inspector, but even the most knowledgeable inspector is limited at times and can benefit and provide far better service by mastering the new technologies that are now available. Drones are only one of many new and valuable technologies, but they are one of the most valuable for home inspections.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com