Sump Pump Selection: What Size, Type & Backup System Do You Need?

In a previous post, I discussed the different types of cracks you may commonly see throughout your home and in foundation walls. In this post, we’ll go over some of the most common options for repairing displaced foundation walls and some of the pros and cons of each option.

It is common for foundation walls to move inward over time as a house settles and experiences pressure. This pressure comes from the freeze/thaw cycle, hydrostatic (water) pressure, expansive clay soils, large tree roots, and other factors. Foundation walls are designed to support load from above, not from the side, and if the pressure from soil is too great for too long, the wall will begin to move inward because it can’t resist the force. As this happens, evidence (such as cracking) will indicate that the wall has moved and may need dealt with to avoid a structural failure. If you notice displacement (bowing, buckling, etc.) of your foundation walls, be sure to deal with it immediately.

At times, a foundation wall is so bad that the only viable solution is to dig around the exterior and replace the wall. Fortunately, though, in many cases the wall can be dealt with from the interior, which saves a lot of work and expense. Some of the most common interior repair options are steel I-beams, helical wall anchors, and carbon fiber strips. Knowing which option to go with requires some basic knowledge of how each option works.

A common steel I-beam option requires that the contractor digs into the concrete floor at the base of the wall, installs I-beams vertically against the wall, and secures them to the floor joist system above. I-beams are in the shape of an “I” – hence their name. Once installed, the dug portions of the floor are refilled with concrete so that the beams become a permanent part of the structure at the foundation and prevent any further inward movement of the wall. A downside to common I-beams is that they are not very visually appealing and take up some space along the wall. If the basement is not finished and the beams are exposed, this isn’t an attractive option to some homeowners. Fortunately, there is an option called “channel steel,” which has a lower profile but still possesses the strength of larger I-beams, and many contractors now use channel steel to ensure a good repair with more visual appeal.

One I-beam system, called the “PowerBrace” system, utilizes large screws at the top of the beams that can be turned periodically over time to exert pressure and eventually force the wall back into proper alignment. The I-beams for this system are installed with an anchor at the base, eliminating the need for digging out portions of the concrete floor.

Helical wall anchors are installed by helicals (large screws) being driven into soil at a depth that is not affected by freezing, temperature changes, moisture, etc. A metal plate and anchor are installed on the interior side of the wall, as well as an earth anchor in the ground. The opposing sides from the soil and wall are connected by a rod and exert pressure in opposing directions. This counteracts hydrostatic pressure and pulls the wall back into alignment and prevents further inward movement; and this system does not take up the space that I-beams do. The installation of helical wall anchors requires some precision planning and load testing. Some exterior excavation may also be required, depending on the method used. In short, it can be a bit complicated, so some contractors do not have the capability of installing them properly.

In more recent years, carbon fiber strips have become very popular as an easier, less obtrusive, and often more cost-effective method for foundation repair. Carbon fiber is one of the strongest materials available (about ten times stronger than steel), and it is extremely good at resisting force. Carbon fiber strips are installed by sanding down the vertical areas where they will be placed, applying a two-part epoxy, and adhering the strips to the wall. If properly installed, they tend to do a good job of preventing the wall from moving any farther inward because as the wall attempts to move inward the carbon fiber resists the pressure and does not stretch. Imagine a rubber band attached flat against your finger versus a piece of metal. As you bend your finger, the rubber band will easily bend with it, but if you attempted to bend your finger with the metal on it, your finger would not move at all. Carbon fiber strips lie flat against the wall and can be painted over after installation, allowing for a non-obtrusive and more visually appealing option. Unfortunately, carbon fiber strips can only be used on walls that have moved inward less than 2 inches and that are generally consistent. Therefore, they are not an option for severely bowed walls or walls with significant and varied cracking. They are also most effective with walls that have moved inward toward the center and are not as effective with walls that have moved inward at the bottom or top. And unlike some of the other options listed here, current carbon fiber options are not capable of forcing a wall back into alignment.

If you have a foundation wall in need of repair, the best option depends on several factors. Is the wall displaced more than 2 inches? Are you concerned with bringing the wall back into alignment, or merely preventing the wall from moving inward any farther? Are you intending to finish over the wall or leave the area exposed and visible? Does the wall’s appearance matter to you if it will remain visible? Is it the top, middle or bottom area of the wall that has moved inward? These questions, and others, will all have an impact on determining the best option for your particular needs, and the qualified contractor you hire to perform the job should be capable of guiding you in your decision.

Fortunately, the options mentioned are less costly than you might assume. They also don’t typically take much time. In addition, most foundation repair contractors and companies guarantee their work for at least ten years, if not for the entire life of the home. Do your homework to determine the best contractor to hire based on their experience, the method they plan to use, cost and warranty. Armed with the knowledge of this article and a reliable, trustworthy contractor, your foundation repair will likely be less troublesome and costly than you might have assumed.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com

At Hill Property Inspections LLC, we proudly provide all of our home inspection clients with a free, zero deductible 90-day home warranty through a separate company called Residential Warranty Services (RWS). The warranty is good for 90 days from the date of inspection, or 22 days after closing on the property – whichever comes later. We automatically enroll all of our home inspection clients in the warranty, so they do not have to do any tedious paperwork at all. Home inspectors nationwide have started offering similar warranties as a bonus to valued clients in order to provide exceptional customer service and much needed protection.

Recently, I was surprised when a real estate agent told me, “All the other home inspectors I deal with guarantee their work just like you, so your warranty is no different and is not a big selling point.” Upon hearing this, I realized that the agent didn’t understand what a home warranty actually is (since other home inspectors nearby aren’t offering warranties and home inspection companies are legally prohibited from offering them); and if a realtor doesn’t understand the value of this benefit, ordinary home buyers definitely can’t be expected to understand! So, I’d like to take a brief moment to describe home warranties and the importance of hiring a home inspection company that provides them through a partner company so you know you are getting the protection you deserve!

First, a “guarantee” is not at all the same thing as a warranty. Of course, all of us who provide inspection services stand by, and therefore “guarantee,” the findings in our inspection reports. After all, we are legally liable for what we do or do not report at the time of inspection, so our expert opinion is, by nature, “guaranteed.” Standing by our findings, though, does not at all guarantee repair or replacement of any defective components of the inspected property. It simply means that we are confident in our ability to find and recognize defects in a home. There are many safeguards in place to protect inspectors from having to pay to repair defects since any component of a home can unexpectedly fail at any time. No home buyer would expect a home inspector to pay for the repair or replacement of a defective component that was functioning properly at the time of their inspection but developed a problem later.

So what, exactly, is a home warranty? A home warranty is a paid contract that provides additional protection to YOU, the home buyer. Like other warranties, it covers the repair or replacement of components of the home that become defective within a specified timeframe. We’ve all purchased warranties for different items, so most people understand this basic concept. Since warranties must be paid for, someone has to foot the bill; and at HPI we pay for the warranty on behalf of our clients as a courtesy and a gesture of appreciation for their business.

Not everything is protected, or “covered,” by the home warranty, though. The warranty we provide at HPI through RWS does not cover anything listed as a defect in our inspection report since the client knows about the issue(s) before purchasing the property. You could think of these things in insurance terms as “pre-existing conditions.” It also doesn’t cover certain appliances not listed in the warranty or any appliance over ten years old, since they have outlived their normal life expectancy by that point. Nearly everything else – structural, mechanical, electrical, plumbing, roofing, HVAC, and so forth – is covered and will be corrected by a qualified contractor, completely free of charge, within 72 hours of filing a claim.

Many people opt to purchase an even more comprehensive and longer lasting home warranty. These warranties cover more items and are typically in effect for at least a year, if not longer. If you are selling a home and dealing with a reputable real estate agency, there is a chance you may be covered by the agency during the listing period with a seller’s warranty to protect you in case anything goes wrong while you’re attempting to sell your home. This point raises the importance of doing your research when deciding what agency to use and the value they offer when you’re planning to sell your home. In any case (whether buying or selling), it is wise to be sure that you have a warranty in place to protect your investment.

Home warranties with longer terms often come with a fairly high price tag, as you might imagine. They are typically several hundred dollars, at minimum. If you hire a home inspector who offers a free short-term home warranty through a partner company like we do, you at least have added protection for some length of time and will likely get the warranty without having to pay a dime or do a bit of paperwork. The fact that home warranties are quite costly also tells you how likely it is that something may go wrong and that you may need the protection. Often times, homeowners encounter problems shortly after moving into a new home, so a 90-day home warranty can certainly be a major blessing.

As you can see, all services are NOT created equal. A guarantee of the findings on a home inspection report won’t help you one bit if and when you need an item in your new home repaired or replaced. A free home warranty, on the other hand, provides you with just that, giving you added peace of mind at a stressful time when you’re making a huge, long-term investment. The old phrase “put your money where your mouth is” is something that we inspectors who provide home warranties to our clients actually DO!

Before hiring a home inspector, ask if he or she provides a free home warranty through another company. If you choose to not spend a good amount of money on a longer term home warranty, this is especially important to give you the protection you need upon first taking possession of your new home. Understand that no home inspection company offers an actual warranty and that their “guaranteed” statements are simply findings that the expert inspector had reported at the exact time of inspection and is willing to stand by despite the fact that anything could go wrong with the home at any time.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com

We all admire stately trees that add character and a sense of grandeur to properties. Large trees are typically very old and have a story all their own that likely dates back before the house even existed on the land.

Despite their grandeur and beauty, though, large trees are unfortunately a potential hazard to many homes. Their roots can grow very large and widespread underground, pressing against the foundation and causing structural damage over time. Their long limbs can extend out over roofs, sometimes touching the roof surface, and causing damage from continual friction or impact if they fall off. It’s hard to believe, but even very large trees can fall over in a bad storm – especially if the tree is dead or has other rot or damage.

As a general rule, tree limbs should be kept 10 feet or farther from a roof’s surface. Ideally, the limbs would not overhang the roof at all. While it is easy to see a tree’s limbs, however, it is not so easy to see or determine how large or far-spread its root system is. If a large tree sits very close to the structure, you can be sure its roots are likely very close to (if not in direct contact with) the foundation.

If your property contains a large tree near your house, you should maintain its limbs, at the very least. Be sure they are no closer than 10 feet from the roof and that no limbs are overhanging the roof surface. While large trees are beautiful and add character, your safety and the integrity of your home are far more important.

You may find yourself in the unfortunate situation of having to consider removing the tree (or several trees) entirely. Like every living thing in life, they must come to an end at some point. If you find yourself in this situation, contact a reputable tree service that can assess the tree’s potential impact on the house and trim or remove it entirely, if necessary.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com

Many people – even some contractors – have a hard time deciding when it’s best to use nails or screws for certain applications. In this short post, I hope to set the record straight so that you (the reader) know the answer.

Nowadays, people tend to gravitate toward screws for most applications; and, indeed, developments in screws have produced some very appealing pieces of the popular hardware that make certain types of screws very appealing. I remember my first time driving a GRK screw into a board and being in shock at how effortlessly the screw went in. Still, nails do have their place, and understanding when to use nails or screws begins with understanding the pros and cons of each.

Nails possess more shear strength than screws. As a nail is twisted or bent it will withstand stress far longer than a screw will under the same force. For this reason, nails are a better option for the framing members of a structure because these members go through twisting and bending as the structure endures force from different directions over time.

Screws, however, possess more tensile strength than nails. Tensile strength refers to a fastener’s ability to remain attached to another component under pressure from tension. Think of two pieces pushed together, side-by-side. Screws used in combination with an adhesive are especially effective at holding components together.

Decks are a good example of where each type of fastener should be used. Nails should be used for the framing members, such as support posts, girders and joists, that will endure load from multiple angles, especially from downward force. Screws are a better option, though, for securing the decking boards to the underlying framing members as they will do a better job of keeping the boards attached to the support system beneath.

So, as a general rule, framing components should be secured with nails, and materials attached to framing members should be secured with screws. The bottom and top plates and studs of a wall are best secured with nails, but the plywood or OSB sheathing attached to the walls are best secured with screws. The trusses or rafters and ridge beam of a roof are best secured with nails, whereas the roof decking is best attached to those members with screws.

To determine the appropriate type and size of nails or screws, consult your local building codes. This information is easy to find and readily accessible.

Hopefully this post has helped you decipher the nails versus screws debate. Both have their place, and it’s important to know when to use each to have a well-built home that will withstand the many pressures exerted on it over time.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com

 

Floor joists often contain notches or bored holes to accommodate wiring, plumbing pipes and duct work. Unfortunately, notches and holes are not always done properly – especially in older homes – and in such cases the joists’ structural integrity may be compromised. In this article we will review the modern requirements for notches and holes in joists so you can evaluate your own for stability.

First of all, all joists have a maximum span based on the size, species of wood, and other factors. Span tables are easy to come by, and the architect who designed your home and the general contractor who built it should have ensured the proper joists were planned and used.

Assuming your joists are the appropriate size and wood species for their spans, we will focus on the general rules for holes and notches. In general, notching should not be done in the middle one-third of the joist. This is because the middle section is the most prone to bending under pressure and notching in this area reduces the joist’s strength in a crucial section. Holes are allowed in the middle, but they too should be avoided in the middle third whenever possible. If notching is done in the outer thirds, the notch should not be greater than one-sixth the depth of the joist. For example, if a joist is 2×10 (in which case its depth is actually closer to nine inches than ten), a notch should not exceed 1-1/2 inches, which is one-sixth of the 9” depth. For all notches, the notch should not be carved out in a square or rectangular shape as the 90-degree corners tend to cause cracking in the wood. Instead, the notch should have angled or rounded edges which perform better under stress from load.

Often times, notching must be done at the ends of joists at the top of foundation walls. This is permitted, but the notch depth at the ends should not exceed one-fourth the depth of the joist and the notch length (horizontally) should not exceed one-third the joist depth.

The rule for holes in joists is a bit more lenient than the rule for notching because removing sections of wood from the edges of joists compromises their strength more than removing wood near the center. Holes should have a diameter that is one-third the depth of the joist or less. In the same 9” deep 2×10 joist, any hole should be 3 inches in diameter, at most, which is one-third of the 9” depth. Of course, if the hole can accommodate what it needs to with a smaller diameter, it should be cut as small as possible to avoid compromising the joist’s strength more than necessary. Holes should generally be located near the middle of the joist’s depth and should be at least 2 inches from the top or bottom edge. Likewise, no notches or holes should be within 2 inches of other notches or holes. If you see several holes or notches in a small area and close to others, you know it’s likely a problem.

If you examine the joists in your home and notice any defects that do not follow the rules listed here, it may be possible to reinforce the compromised areas. It’s a good idea, however, to consult a qualified structural engineer in such cases to ensure your flooring system is structurally sound.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com