Sump Pump Selection: What Size, Type & Backup System Do You Need?

Contrary to older homes that typically contained many walls to separate rooms, the modern preference for most homeowners is an open floor plan. Often times, people purchase a home that is not as open as they’d prefer with the intention of opening up the space, or current homeowners may wish to remodel to achieve a more open feel.

Of course, before you go tearing out walls there’s one very important consideration you have to determine… is the wall load bearing? A load bearing wall is a wall that, as its name suggests, supports load (weight and force) from the structure. Load can be “dead” load, meaning it is always present as part of the structure itself, or “live” load, meaning the load is not permanent and can be moved (furniture, appliances, people, etc.). If a load bearing wall is removed entirely and no longer present to provide support, devastating consequences can result for the structure.

So how do you determine if a wall is load bearing? Well, it’s actually not as difficult as you might think. If you have a basement, begin there. If not, begin with the crawlspace or slab. In other words, start at the lowest point of the house, regardless of the type of foundation. If your home has a basement or crawlspace like most in my area, you will likely see vertical columns with long, thick wood or metal beams running on top of them. Above the beams, you will typically see wooden floor joists running perpendicular (at a right angle) to the beams and bearing on the stronger exterior walls.

The load from the structure is constantly transferred through this entire system – from the roof, through the walls and floor structure, and finally to the more substantial foundation at the base, and ultimately into the ground. All of the individual members of the structure are designed to effectively transfer load continuously and to withstand the dead and live loads that may be exerted on the system at any time. In general, foundation walls and centrally located interior walls are load bearing.

Once you’ve verified the direction of your support beams and floor joists, you can move to the first floor. If the wall in question is running parallel to the beam and perpendicular to the floor joists below, there is a good possibility that it is load bearing. This is because the joists above the wall are probably running in the same direction as those in the basement, and the wall is likely supporting the joists above it. If the wall is running parallel to the joists, there is a good possibility that it is not load bearing. Often (but not always), short and narrow interior walls are not load bearing and are not exerting much weight on the structure below. Longer, wider walls are load bearing more often than not, even if they contain doors or larger openings.

If you have a one-story house with an unfinished attic, you can easily access the joists above the wall to see if they are bearing on it. If you have a two-story house or a finished attic, a little more investigation may be needed.

If you discover that a wall is load bearing, it does not mean that you can’t open up the wall to create more open space. The wall can usually still be altered by placing a “header” (horizontal support member) above the new opening to transfer the load around the opening and downward toward the foundation. Windows and doors have headers above them to achieve the same goal. It is important, though, that the header is properly sized for the load requirement (not too small or too big) and that the wall is adequately supported with temporary bracing while it is being altered.

Because of the vital importance of determining whether a wall is load bearing and ensuring that alterations are properly done, it is always advisable to consult a structural engineer prior to remodeling work that involves wall alterations. Likewise, it is important to hire an experienced contractor who can complete the work properly and safely. “Bear” all this in mind if you’re considering alterations to create a more open floor plan.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com

This post isn’t about showerheads themselves, but the wall covering that surrounds them. Despite the fact that standard drywall is very prone to moisture problems and isn’t at all waterproof, it’s still one of the most common wall covering material used around showerheads. I see it all the time.

Ideally, nothing that isn’t waterproof, or at least water resistant, would be used in a bathroom at all. There’s simply too much water and moisture, and problems are bound to occur over time when bathrooms are constructed with materials that aren’t water-friendly.

The rule of thumb is that waterproof material (such as tile or vinyl) should extend at least three inches above a showerhead. Often times, tub showers have waterproof surrounds but the showerhead is installed right above the surround through standard drywall. Standard tub surrounds are often not high enough to extend three inches above the showerhead because people tend to prefer their showerheads to be located fairly high to allow for plenty of headroom.

If your showerhead is located above the surround and coming through drywall, you’re not likely to have waterproof material installed – especially if you haven’t had any noticeable problems. But if you’re remodeling or having a new bathroom constructed, be sure to use waterproof materials and that the area around the showerhead extends at least three inches above the pipe. In the long run, you’ll be glad you did.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com

Every now and then I have the fortunate experience of running across rare and unique forms of construction at inspections. Recently, I had the pleasant surprise of coming across a concrete beam and block suspended ceiling at a house I inspected. Most people have never heard of (let alone seen) this type of floor system, and I’d like to describe it so – if nothing else – you can share in my fascination.

Nearly all suspended residential floor systems throughout the U.S. are made of wood, and we have come to view wood floor construction (wood girders, joists, and subfloors) as the norm. In some other countries, though, concrete is a more common building material than wood for many applications. A friend of mine grew up in India and told me he was amazed when he first moved to America and discovered that all the houses were “built of flimsy sticks.” He was used to homes being built with mostly concrete.

Concrete beam and block foundations like the one I recently saw have gained popularity in the United Kingdom and some other Western countries. The system consists of concrete beams in the shape of a T, known simply as T-beams, and the “T” is inverted so that the top side of the T shape is facing down. Concrete blocks are then laid perpendicular to the T-beams, side-by-side between them, on top of the bottom lips of the beams and flush with the tops. The beams bear on the exterior foundation walls and interior support walls, and the concrete blocks are made to be lighter weight than normal so the load isn’t too great for the foundation to support.

There are several benefits to this type of floor structure. As you can imagine, it is very strong. Installation of the system is also relatively simple and is not weather dependent since, unlike wood, the concrete is not very susceptible to water damage. It is also good at resisting damage from water and pests and is suitable for radiant floor systems since the concrete is a good radiator of heat. Unlike wood floors that are prone to bouncing and squeaking, those issues are virtually non-existent with a concrete beam and block floor system.

It’s not likely that the long-standing, traditional construction practices here in America will change any time soon. Still, it’s pretty exciting to occasionally run into oddities that are rare and different. If you’re looking into building a home, you may want to consider the option of a suspended concrete beam and block foundation, provided you can find a contractor who knows enough about the system’s design and installation requirements. In any case, it’s interesting to know about different building practices that are common elsewhere but rarely seen in our own country.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com

All homeowners are aware that they need to maintain their homes and take care of certain “to-do”s each season, but knowing the right time to do each task can be confusing and, at times, overwhelming. I’d like to provide some clarification on the best seasons to check off items on your home maintenance “to-do” list so you can be confident that you’re doing what needs done at the right times of the year.

First, one of the best things you can do is hire a home inspector to perform an annual home maintenance checkup each year. The checkup inspection will provide you with a thorough overview of your home’s major systems and components as well as information on how much longer they are likely to last based on their average life expectancy. Think of this as a general physical exam you would see your family doctor for once a year. Most homeowners are capable of handling a majority of the tasks that need done each season, but thoroughly inspecting the home is a vital job that is beyond the scope of basic homeownership, and nothing can replace a professional inspector for this important maintenance task.

Aside from the annual checkup, there are certain things you should do at least once a year, and which season you do them depends on when it makes the most sense. Some tasks should be done twice a year, and we will review the two seasons that make the most sense for those tasks.

SPRING: Aside from the spring cleaning most people do, spring is an ideal time to clean out your gutters and downspouts, check your roof and its components, have your central air conditioning system serviced by a qualified HVAC technician, check the shut-off valves on your plumbing supply lines, look over your foundation walls for any new cracks, install screens in exterior windows and doors, and clean your kitchen exhaust filter. The winter can be a rough time for your roof, foundation and plumbing system, in particular, due to freezing temperatures that can affect soil and pipes and snow and ice that exert pressure on the roof. Once the cold weather has cleared up, it is a perfect time to make sure there is no new damage to your roof or foundation from the winter and that your plumbing is intact with no leaks and valves that still operate properly. Before the heat of summer comes, having your A/C system serviced is a good idea to ensure it is set to perform optimally before it is frequently used.

SUMMER: When summer rolls around and you will likely be outside more, it is a good idea to check the exterior components of your home. Look over your deck, porches, balconies, and other exterior structures for deterioration. Check your siding to make sure no new holes or deterioration have formed after the heavy rains of spring. If anything needs a facelift, use this time to take care of that maintenance. Since spring brings a lot of rain, it is a good idea to check your foundation and roof once again. If you notice any new damage, contact a qualified contractor immediately for repair. Last but not least, you will want to thoroughly check any children’s play equipment for structural integrity since summer is when the equipment will be used most and the safety of children is of utmost importance.

FALL: The fall requires more maintenance than any other season. As the leaves begin to fall and the winter approaches, there are unfortunately many tasks that need to be done. Fall is the best time to have your gutters and downspouts thoroughly cleaned. I mentioned doing this in the spring as well, but if you opt to only have them cleaned once a year it is ideal to do it in the fall and at the end of the season. To ensure your heating system will function well all winter, it is important to have a qualified HVAC technician service the system and to take measures to prevent frozen pipes; and fall is the perfect time. Along those lines, you will want to have a qualified chimney sweep clean out your chimney and check the damper for proper operation. This is important for any chimney, but especially if you have a wood-burning fireplace. After mowing all summer and using other gas-powered outdoor equipment, you will want to be sure that the fuel for that equipment is used up prior to winter so it doesn’t stay sitting in the equipment all winter long. Any bird nests that have formed in the flue or around the exterior of the house during the warm season should be removed during the fall. Finally, you should take time near the end of the fall season to check your caulking around exterior doors and windows to prevent unwanted heat loss in the winter and replace any door or window screens to aid in energy efficiency.

WINTER: Most home maintenance occurs in the warmer months between spring and autumn, but winter still requires some attention. Since combustion is much more likely to occur during the winter from fireplaces, furnaces, and other heat sources, the beginning of the winter is the perfect time to check your smoke and carbon monoxide detectors so you know they are working properly and will help keep your family safe during the cold season. Along those lines, you should ensure that all family members are aware of where gas shut-off valves are located and how to shut them off in case of emergency. Water hoses for appliances like dishwashers, refrigerator icemakers and washing machines should be checked for cracks and deterioration at the beginning of winter, and any damaged hoses should be replaced. If you burn wood during the winter, you will want to make sure that all wood is a good distance away from the house, despite how tempting it is to keep it nearby. Twenty feet or farther from the house is ideal. If you have a generator, you will likely want to test it at the beginning of winter to make sure it will work well if and when you need it most, and unless you have a new house with PEX plumbing and more than adequate insulation you will want to frequently check for plumbing leaks throughout the winter season.

This list is certainly not exhaustive, but doing the tasks listed at the recommended times will help a great deal in maintaining your home, prolonging the useful life of your home’s systems and components, and keeping your family safe. Remember, while you can likely do a lot of the work listed here on your own, nothing can take the place of qualified contractors for servicing and/or repairing certain components of your home, and nothing can act as a substitute for a professional inspector who can thoroughly evaluate your home year after year.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com

Most people don’t think of child-proofing their homes unless they have an infant or toddler of their own. This may seem to make sense, but in reality many homeowners – including those who don’t have small children of their own – are wise to take measures to protect young children from potential hazards in their house.  Grandparents, aunts and uncles, and friends of people with young children may all find themselves in a situation where child-proofing is absolutely necessary. Here are a few quick pointers on how to go about making your home child-friendly.

Most people are familiar with the obvious procedures… receptacle and door knob covers, safety gates, etc. But many people aren’t familiar with what else can be done to make their home safer for children.

Beyond the already mentioned safety guards, you can take many additional, helpful measures. You can install cushioned corner guards on your coffee table, fireplace hearth extension, and other areas with sharp corners in case a child falls or runs into the corners. Securing bookcases into wall studs with appropriate hardware, such as simple L brackets, will prevent the bookcases from falling if a toddler crawls into them and could otherwise tip them over. As a general rule, anything that could be hazardous and is low and within reach of a child should be moved to a higher location that the child can’t access.

If you currently store cleaning products under your kitchen or bathroom sink like most people, you can move them to higher cabinetry or shelving so they are out of reach as they are toxic. I, myself, got ahold of a bottle of lamp oil when I was three years old, drank it and developed pneumonia! Don’t let the same thing happen to a child in your home. Instead, store pots, pans and hand towels in these areas, which are not nearly as likely to cause physical harm. In addition, you can install plastic latches on your cabinet doors that are easily pressed down for adults to open but not so easy for children to access.

To properly child-proof your home, you really need to think like a toddler. Assume that anything at a low level and anything graspable is something that small children WILL be curious about and touch. Keep floors and anything in the lower half of rooms generally clean, free of clutter, and covered when necessary.

One handy safety device that you may not know exists is a child safety toilet lock. A lever attaches to the top of the toilet seat and locks into a mechanism mounted to the toilet tank. Yes, it’s pretty unsightly, but it’s better than having a toddler fall into the toilet or hit their head with the seat.

Be sure, as well, to always close exterior doors so a child can’t crawl outside and fall or get injured in another way. Ensure that all attached exterior areas (porches, decks, balconies, and so forth) have sturdy and properly installed railings and properly spaced spindles to prevent children from falling or getting their head stuck IF, by some chance, they do happen to find their way outside.

Last but not least, be cautious in protecting your children if you have pets. Many pets are great, and even protective, with children and seem to instinctively know that small children are fragile and easily hurt. Still, a simple scratch can hurt a small child quite a bit, and proper precautions and constant supervision are a must when toddlers and animals are together.

I hope this article has provided you with some extra food for thought that you may have not previously known about or considered for child-proofing your home. Feel free to leave any additional insights and helpful tips you may have discovered on your own!

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com