Sump Pump Selection: What Size, Type & Backup System Do You Need?

Doors and windows are notoriously difficult to install properly. Many contractors sub them out to other experts to avoid having to deal with the exactness that’s required for proper installation. Even prehung doors, which you would assume would be simple to install, can prove quite difficult when getting the door perfect is a must.

Fortunately, a very simple solution has been developed that makes hanging doors not only easier, but a piece of cake. I normally don’t promote any certain name-brand products, but I have used this particular product several times and am confident it would be a very valuable product for homeowners and DIYers to know about.

The product is called “EZ-Hang” door brackets and is available at Home Depot, online, and likely in several other stores. The EZ-Hang system really does make a door “easy to hang,” as its name suggests. A packet comes with several triangle shaped brackets to use on one door and the small packet is very inexpensive. The brackets get mounted (screwed) to the prehung door frame directly behind the hinges (where the most support is needed), and each bracket has several grooves. After mounting the brackets, you simply draw a plumb line (vertically level) along the wood stud that the brackets will mount to and screw on each bracket, ensuring that the plumb line you drew goes through the same groove on each bracket. This ensures that the hinged side of the door is plumb. From there, you simply adjust the other side of the door as needed for a good fit, mount brackets on the other side, and screw the rest of the framing in place making sure that the door shuts properly with an even “reveal” around the perimeter.

The EZ-Hang system is extremely quick, inexpensive, reliable, and – best of all – requires no shims or other tedious adjustments. Virtually anyone can install a prehung door with the simple brackets, making what was once a difficult task best left to the pros a surprisingly easy job.

To learn more about the EZ-Hang system, search the product on YouTube or visit the main website at http://www.ezhangdoor.com.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com

When you’re a homeowner, it definitely pays to be handy. When I use that term, I don’t mean that you should know all the ins and outs of construction, repair work and building science, but rather that it helps a great deal to at least know some basics.

Years ago, I came up with an idea that I’m sure many others have had, and it paid off in dividends. Recognizing that there was a good bit I didn’t know about building and making repairs, I struck a deal with two friends of mine who jointly owned a reputable contracting business. I offered to provide them with free help on jobs I wanted to learn more about in exchange for their education and expertise along the way. It was a win-win: they got a free helping hand, while I got a free education on jobs I wasn’t yet completely confident doing on my own. Needless to say, they gladly accepted my offer.

I didn’t accompany them on every job since I was already pretty “handy,” but I did tag along any time they were tackling a project that I had little or no experience with. Fortunately, they were excellent teachers and took the time to explain things as we worked and ensured I had a solid understanding.

While some people seem to have a natural talent for building and repair work, no one becomes handy without a good deal of training, trial and error and dedication along the way. If you’ve grown up learning the ropes you are certainly at an advantage; but if you’re like most people and enter homeownership with a low skill level and need to call in expensive professionals for every little job, you would certainly benefit from learning some basic home repair and maintenance skills. Not only will you develop a strong sense of pride; you’ll also save a lot of money!

You may know a good contractor who would be happy to strike a deal with you similar to the one I struck with my friends. If not, even videos on websites like YouTube can be very helpful in today’s technology driven age. There are how-to videos for virtually everything you could imagine. Still, nothing can replace the value of actual hands-on experience under the supervision of an experienced professional.

If you’re a homeowner, consider taking action to improve your skill level with maintaining your home. Reach out to others for guidance, watch videos, read articles, and do whatever else you can to become as handy as possible. You’ll find that it’s easier than you think, and the sense of pride and financial savings you’ll experience will be well worth the time you invest.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com

If you have purchased a home in my neck of the woods (Pennsylvania), you’ve most likely either had a radon test conducted or were advised about the importance of having a radon test done. In fact, radon is so prevalent here in PA that it was added some time back to the real estate purchase agreement.

Nationwide, about 6% of homes – on average – have a potentially dangerous, elevated radon level; but here in PA, a shocking 40% of homes have elevated levels. Needless to say, radon testing in Pennsylvania is very common and strictly regulated, and homeowners everywhere should be familiar with the potential dangers of radon in their homes and have their home tested for radon.

Radon is an odorless, colorless, tasteless gas and, according to the Environmental Protection Agency, is the second leading cause of lung cancer next to smoking. If you are a current or former smoker and are exposed to elevated radon levels, your risk of contracting lung cancer increases exponentially.

Often times, home buyers and even real estate agents assume that homes with an existing radon mitigation system or that have been built with newer radon prevention techniques are safe and guaranteed to have little or no radon. Unfortunately, this is not always true, and I can attest to this fact from my experience as a state certified radon tester.

Not too long ago, I conducted a radon test for a real estate transaction in a house that had an existing mitigation system. The listing agent for the home (seller’s realtor) questioned the need for conducting the test since a mitigation system was already present and operational. This seems logical, but it is recommended that radon testing be done for all real estate transactions in our state, and this particular home proved why.

To the surprise of all of us involved, the radon test results showed elevated levels in the home, even though the mitigation system was running during the test. As a result, the sellers and buyers were thankful and relieved that the test had been done, and the contractor who had installed the system years before came to the house to install a new, larger fan to achieve lower levels.

Likewise, I inspected a home that had been built in a very energy efficient manner with closed cell spray foam insulation, a great deal of air sealing, etc. One would assume that this type of construction would prevent radon gas from entering the inside of the structure, but yet again, the test results showed an elevated level and a mitigation system was subsequently installed.

The EPA recommends that all homeowners test their homes for radon and even recommends that homes with existing mitigation systems be tested at least every two years to ensure the system is working as intended. This undoubtedly seems like overkill to some, but my experience proves that this advice is, in fact, sensible and worth following.

Don’t make the mistake of assuming that any house is free of radon or contains low levels – even if a mitigation system is already present or the house has been built with methods to prevent radon entry. The small price you’ll pay for having your home tested is well worth the peace of mind you will get once you know what course of action (if any) you need to take to protect yourself and your family.

For more radon information, including links to EPA literature, visit the “FAQ” section of our website. If you have not had a radon test conducted within the past two years, consider hiring a qualified tester to test your home so you know your radon level and whether mitigation is warranted.

[PA DEP Certified Radon Testing Individual #3311]

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com

Many homeowners own a generator, and both stationary and portable generators have increased in popularity in recent years. Both types have their pros and cons, and I’d like to briefly review those in this article for anyone thinking of purchasing a generator as a back-up power source.

Generators always make me think of four or all-wheel drive vehicles. They are rarely needed; but in those rare moments when they are needed, they seem like life savers we can’t live without.

Generators exist in two primary types: portable and stationary. Stationary generators are often referred to as “whole-house” generators because they are securely mounted, come on automatically during a power outage, and are capable of powering most of the home’s power needs.

As their name suggests, portable generators are easily moved from one location to another. This affords several benefits, but the choice of going with a stationary or portable unit ultimately depends on your particular needs.

So why are generators useful? Well, one main reason is food preservation. Regardless of the season, your food will eventually spoil, resulting in loss of both food and income, if the electricity is out for too long. Likewise, if your heating/cooling system is inoperable for too long, the temperature and humidity levels in your house may become nearly unbearable. Living without electricity for a short time is certainly bearable, but modern lifestyles are typically very dependent on electricity, and an unexpected, long-term power outage can be devastating in some cases.

So, given the benefits of owning a generator, how can you determine which type to purchase? The benefits of portable generators are that they are movable and less expensive. Contrarily, stationary, whole-house generators are pricier and cannot be moved, which most people would consider cons. However, portable generators are not capable of supplying the amount of wattage that a stationary generator can supply, and they require more manpower (cons), whereas stationary generators (if working correctly) require no labor to operate. This point is very important for elderly and/or disabled people who are not capable of easily operating a generator manually. Portable generators do not require permitting, but some municipalities require permits for whole-house units prior to installation. If your home experiences frequent power outages, you are likely better off with a whole-house generator.

In short, your choice in a generator should depend mostly on your needs. If you own a home and a small vacation cabin, you may be better off going with a portable generator so it’s available for use at either property. If cost isn’t a factor and your goal is to power all or most of your home’s electrical needs in a power outage, you are likely better off with a stationary unit.

If you opt for a portable generator, be sure to get a high quality unit from a reputable manufacturer (like an inverter-powered Honda), and always fire up the unit prior to plugging in any extension cords to avoid a power surge. Prioritize providing power to the most important items in the home (refrigerator, deep freezer, heating/cooling system, etc.), and do not waste electricity (and gas) on less important items. Use candles for lighting, deal with somewhat uncomfortable temperatures as long as you can, and – above all – be safe! When powering a furnace with a portable unit, ensure that a qualified electrician has reviewed the unit’s grounding for use with a portable generator, and be sure that your generator provides power in a clean manner so components of the system are not harmed.

In most cases, power outages do not last for very long and you may not even need to use a generator. When the need arises, though, having a quality generator will prove invaluable and you will be very glad you have one.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com

Many homes contain a sub panel, which is a second electrical panel, smaller than the main panel, that is connected to (and fed by) the main panel downstream to provide power to branch circuits in additional areas of the property. Often times, additions, garages and other isolated structures or areas will contain a sub panel.

Sub panels are generally easier to wire than main panels for the simple fact that they are smaller and contain fewer breakers and wires, which means less work. Because they are easier to wire, though, some homeowners with a bit of electrical knowledge and experience attempt to wire sub panels on their own without realizing that they should not be wired in exactly the same way as a main panel.

One of the most common mistakes I come across is bonding of the neutral and ground bars in sub panels. This is necessary and standard practice in the main panel, which is the one and only place it is allowed, but it is dangerous and prohibited in a sub panel. Let’s examine why bonding the neutrals and grounds in a sub panel is dangerous…

Electricity always seeks to return to its source. In the case of a home, the main electrical panel is where the electricity enters and exits the home, and can thus be thought of as both the starting point and the finish line of the electrical current’s “lap.” The goal is to prevent the current from traveling anywhere other than along one intended path. That path is from the breakers in the panel, through the “hot” wires that supply power throughout the house, and back to the main panel along the neutral wires. If a ground-fault occurs, which essentially creates a “detour” for the current, we want the electricity to travel only along that predetermined ground path. So, the goal is to establish one primary path for the current as well as one alternate path in case something goes wrong along the normal route.

With that in mind, what happens when the neutrals and grounds are bonded in a sub panel? Rather than having only one path for the neutral current to return to the main panel on, it now has two – the neutral and ground wires. And unfortunately, electricity does not magically choose to travel along one path and not the other; if both are available to conduct electricity, both will conduct it. This creates additional energized lines between the sub and main panels, which creates more possibilities for someone to be shocked. This can also cause some problems with GFCI receptacles and interference with other systems.

So, by bonding the ground and neutral bars in a sub panel, you create multiple paths for returning neutral current when we only want one. Bonding is fine in the main panel because it is the beginning and end point of the current and is concealed and safe, unlike bonding in a sub panel which creates potentially dangerous points that exist in the middle of the path.

If you’re thinking of adding a sub panel, be sure to hire a qualified electrician to do the job and make sure he or she does it properly by keeping the grounds and neutrals separate. If you already have a sub panel, make sure the ground and neutral bars aren’t bonded (connected) or that the neutral and ground wires aren’t all on the same bar. You’ll be much safer if your sub panel is installed properly by someone who knows and follows this essential rule.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com