Sump Pump Selection: What Size, Type & Backup System Do You Need?

In my opinion (and the opinion of many others), electricity is hands-down the most difficult aspect of contruction and building science to fully comprehend, excluding HVAC which most often involves electricity in addition to plumbing or ductwork and complex equipment. It’s why most experienced DIYers don’t tackle big electrical jobs on their own and why electricians charge a lot of money for their expertise.

One often overlooked aspect of electrical panels is balancing. For panels to function well they need to be properly balanced, and fortunately this is easier to determine than you may assume.

A balanced panel is one in which both “hot” legs, or lines, handle a similar amount of amperes (amps). If a panel is unbalanced, one leg is essentially doing more work and taking more wear and tear than the other leg. As a result, the overloaded leg will likely fail or cause a hazard before the other and the panel won’t function optimally.

To determine if your panel is balanced, simply add the total number of amps on each side and compare the two. The majority of the circuits in the panel will be 15 or 20 amps. 15-amp circuits supply lights and other low wattage items. 20-amp circuits typically supply items in kitchens and bathrooms that require more power, like toasters and hair dryers. A few circuits will typically be 240-volt, 2-pole 30, 40 or 50-amp circuits to supply very high wattage appliances like electric dryers, ranges and water heaters.

After adding the total number of amps on each line, compare the two to determine how balanced your electrical panel is. Ideally, they would be nearly identical or within about 10% of each other. At the very most, a difference of up to 25% may be okay, although not ideal. If the difference exceeds this, it would be a good idea to have a qualified electrician move any necessary breakers from the overloaded side to the other side to obtain a balanced panel that will be less of a hazard and hold up for a longer period of time.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com

Most home buyers aren’t aware of the fact that the Standards of Practice for home inspectors, which dictate the minimum requirements for what we inspect, do not require the inspection of detached structures, or “outbuildings.” In other words, if the house you are looking to buy has a detached garage, shed, barn, or other outbuilding, chances are your home inspector will not be inspecting it as part of your general home inspection.

Because of this, nearly all home inspectors charge an extra fee for all detached structures. After all, any additional inspecting means additional liability, and the reward should ideally equal or outweigh the potential cost.

Well, just today I had the pleasure of inspecting a property that had two large outbuildings, and I did so completely free of charge. I say I had the “pleasure” because this particular property was previously a saddle shop and the outbuildings were very unique and interesting. In fact, they were downright fun to inspect! I came across an electric boiler in one outbuilding (something I never see), and the other outbuilding contained a furnace that was fueled by a portable gas/oil caddy as opposed to a permanent, in-place tank. The list goes on, but sufficed to say that it was a nice change of pace when I’m used to mostly the “same ol’ same ol’.”

Now, I never charge extra for inspecting detached garages. I figure it isn’t the buyer’s fault that the garage happens to be detached rather than attached; and in reality it is actually easier in many ways to inspect detached garages because there are several rather strict requirements in place for attached garages since they are connected to living space and carry with them several additional requirements. I do, however, normally charge for other detached structures.

My inspection today was so interesting that I didn’t even mind not charging extra for not one, but two, large detached structures. I didn’t realize how substantial each detached structure was prior to inspecting them, but I really didn’t mind the extra work once I arrived and began my process. Yet, after returning home and beginning to write the inspection report, I quickly realized that I was essentially writing three reports in one because each building was essentially a full scale home, equipped with plumbing, electric, heating, attic space, etc.

So there are good reasons for home inspectors charging extra for detached structures. It’s more work and more liability, and those facts essentially demand more compensation. Fortunately for my clients, I do not charge for detached garages, and in cases like today where I wasn’t aware of the size and scope of the detached structures beforehand, the client benefits from an accidental “freebie.” I have to admit, though – despite the fact that I would normally have charged a little extra for outbuildings of this scale, I don’t mind occasionally cutting my losses when the inspection is so unique and interesting. I’m happy to be in a line of work that I greatly enjoy, having the opportunity to see rare features in properties and meet interesting people at every inspection.

If you’re searching for a home inspector, find out if he or she charges for detached structures. But beyond that, dig a little deeper to see if they have a true passion for what they do and if they appreciate the many rewards of our line of work in addition to compensation alone.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com

I’ve seen many improper attempts at plumbing repairs while inspecting houses. In fact, many of the houses I inspect have at least one piping joint that has been “repaired” with what I would refer to as only a temporary bandaid fix.

Putty, Teflon tape, caulk, and spray foam are all popular options for people who attempt to stop a leak – especially in drain piping. This seems logical since these products are all either designed to aid in water sealing or are water resistant. Needless to say, though, while they may slow or stop a leak for a while, they are not likely to hold up long-term and are not a proper repair.

Instead of temporary half measures, you are far better off repairing the leak properly and more permanently. Of course, this does mean a little more work, time and expense, but you will be very glad you fixed the leak the right way since you won’t have to worry about the leak creeping up again at some point (and likely a while before you realize it’s resurfaced).

In most cases, the proper and best way to repair a leak is to replace the leaking section of piping. Often times, a joint simply needs tightened, in which case replacement is unnecessary and the repair is simple; but if that’s not the case, replacement is usually the best method. Fortunately, a wide array of pipe fittings and connections are available (and at an affordable price) to make replacement less difficult and costly than it sounds. Even joining different types of piping together is usually a simple process thanks to products like Fernco “no-hub” fittings that boast a very simple yet effective design.

While waste pipe fixes are normally pretty simple, it is still best to call in a qualified and reputable plumber if you aren’t experienced enough or completely comfortable performing the repair on your own. Just be sure that you repair leaks the right way no matter how tempting a simple but less effective solution may be.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com

If you’ve done any building, repair work or have worked on vehicles, you know the phrase “the right tool for the job” is very true. We inspectors carry and use several tools for our job that many people don’t even know exist. One of those tools is a moisture meter, and I’d like to take a moment to discuss these handy tools and what makes them one of the several “right tools for the job” of home inspecting.

Moisture meters come in two main varieties: pinned and pinless. As their names suggest, pinned moisture meters have pins and pinless models do not. In either case, these meters measure electrical resistance and convert the reading into a moisture content percentage (%MC) of the area of the material being tested. The wetter the material, the less the electrical resistance and the higher the moisture percentage; the dryer the material, the greater the electrical resistance and the lower the moisture percentage.

As you may have guessed, there are two types of moisture meters for a reason. Pinned meters are excellent when a material can be probed with the pins. When leaving small holes in the material is either undesireable or unacceptable, a pinless meter is the best option. If moisture is suspected on wood framing, inserting a pinned meter is a great option; but if moisture is apparent on drywall and the pins would leave unsightly holes, a non-invasive pinless meter is a better bet.

Pinned meters are very good at measuring the moisture content of small, specific areas since the pins probe only those spots. Pinned meters can also detect moisture content in a material to a depth since the pins can be pushed deeper into the material. Pinless meters are capable of measuring the moisture content of larger areas at a time (although the area measured is still small) and they cannot penetrate materials to test internal moisture levels like a pinned meter can.

Many moisture meters can even be set to test on different materials, such as wood or drywall. If the meter is of high quality, it can typically adjust its MC reading fairly accurately taking different materials into account. This, of course, allows for a more true and accurate reading.

Despite their value, most homeowners are not likely to purchase moisture meters, but they are very innovative and helpful tools for those of us in the inspection industry and for anyone in need of a way to measure the moisture content of different materials.

If you have frequent moisture issues or areas that appear to be damp but you aren’t sure, you may want to consider purchasing a decent quality moisture meter for yourself to be able to perform periodic testing. Of course, your best bet is to hire a professional inspector who uses these tools often and knows them well to thoroughly inspect for moisture intrusion problems. In any case, moisture meters are important tools of the inspection trade (and other trades) that can reveal some very important information that property owners benefit from knowing.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com

A while back, I had to tackle the tough and messy job (along with the help of a professional plumber friend) of replacing our old cast iron waste stack. A leak had formed and, needless to say, the cast iron needed replaced immediately since we didn’t welcome the thought of sewage behind our wall and in our basement, and the leak would only continue to get worse.

I see cast iron waste stacks in older homes often while performing inspections. Cast iron used to be a popular choice for waste piping prior to plastic, and some people even still choose to have it installed. One main benefit to cast iron is that, unlike plastic, it is very quiet. You likely wouldn’t even know when water is flowing through it. In addition, cast iron waste stacks have great longevity. The one I replaced in my own home lasted 120 years before it needed replaced.

Unfortunately, though, cast iron also has some major downsides. The metal rots from the inside, so there is generally no way to tell when the piping is corroded until a hole has formed through the exterior and it is too late to make a repair. And if a hole has formed, it is likely that the rest of the pipe’s interior is also heavily corroded. In addition – as you might imagine – cast iron is quite expensive, so it is cost-prohibitive for many people.

If you are building a house with an ample budget and are considering cast iron for its benefits, rest assured that the piping will last well beyond when you would need it to. But if, like many people, you have an old cast iron stack in an older home, be sure to keep a close eye on it since problems can creep up unexpectedly. If you do find yourself in the unfortunate situation of having to replace your cast iron stack, I would definitely recommend leaving the job to a qualified plumber and opting for plastic piping (PVC or ABS) since it is much cheaper and will also last a long time.

All in all, plastic piping is really the preferred choice for most newer homes and repairs nowadays… and for good reason. If you have a cast iron waste stack that isn’t too old and is still functioning fine, there is no immediate need to replace it; but if problems start to arise (as they inevitably will at some point) be sure to get on it quickly and to have the job done professionally.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com