Sump Pump Selection: What Size, Type & Backup System Do You Need?

For most homes I inspect that have a well as the water source, I perform a water analysis. This is often required by lenders, and many home buyers want to know that the home’s water quality is acceptable whether their lender requires a water analysis or not. Public water supplies come from a water treatment plant that adheres to strict safety guidelines, but wells are the sole responsibility of the homeowner. For this reason, all homeowners who rely on a well as their primary water source should have their water tested periodically for safety.

While we test for several contaminants here at HPI (bacteria, total dissolved solids, nitrates/nitrites, lead and pH), the one that most people are concerned with is bacteria. I’m often surprised by how many water analysis results show the presence of bacteria in well water.

Fortunately, there are options for eliminating bacteria in well water, and I’d like to focus on what I consider to be one of the best options in this article – an ultraviolet (UV) treatment system. Some well owners rely on chlorination to kill bacteria, and this method is generally effective. The problem with chlorination, though, is that it needs to be done manually and fairly often to ensure the well water is safe. Many homeowners aren’t aware that well chlorination should be performed after all heavy amounts of rainfall, and in many areas that’s a common occurrence. This process of chlorinating, or “shocking,” the well consists of manually adding the chlorination, running the water through each fixture until a chlorine odor is apparent, shutting off each fixture, allowing the water to sit for preferably at least 24 hours, and finally purging the plumbing system of all chlorine. Needless to say, this is a very tedious and laborious task that can cause a good bit of inconvenience, although it does not cost much. In addition, certain strains of bacteria are not always killed by chlorination (although most are), so your efforts may not always be completely effective.

On the contrary, UV treatment kills 99.99% of bacteria and is essentially maintenance-free. A UV system consists of a lamp and sleeve, and the lamp emits ultraviolet light that disrupts the DNA of bacteria, which effectively destroys it. Unlike chlorination which has to be done more regularly and requires some know-how, a UV system only requires an annual bulb change to perform its job. In fact, it’s not much more difficult than changing any other light bulb… you just have to take care not to touch the bulb as skin oils can cause damage, similar to changing a vehicle headlight. The UV system works at all times, so there’s no need for tiresome manual labor.

A downside to UV systems is that they only kill microorganisms. They do not eliminate other possible contaminants in well water that may also be harmful. For this reason, many homes with wells are equipped with other treatment systems in addition to a UV system for bacteria, such as filters, a water softening system, etc.

Many would-be rural homeowners assume that having a well means no fees for water, period. While this can be true, it often is not true – especially if you drink the water. In most cases, well owners will want (or need) to have a treatment system in place to ensure their water is safe, and these systems do cost money.

Typically, well drilling companies that provide these systems will give the option of either buying the equipment outright or leasing it on a monthly basis. If you purchase the equipment, you own it but are also responsible for any maintenance, repair or replacement work that arises. If you lease the equipment, you typically pay per month but the company is responsible for any work that needs done at any given time. It is important to weigh the pros and cons of each option based on your particular wants and needs. In any case, having water treatment systems (like a UV system) installed is a good idea for most homeowners with a private water supply.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com

 

Like bathrooms, kitchens need to be well ventilated. From time to time, I come across houses during inspections that have no mechanical ventilation, and this is an issue that should be remedied as soon as possible to ensure cleanliness, health and longevity of the kitchen components.

Kitchens and bathrooms both experience high levels of moisture (bathrooms more), but kitchens are also prone to something that bathrooms aren’t – cooking residue. To ensure good indoor air quality, kitchens need a way of filtering food particles in addition to expelling moisture.

There are two methods used in most kitchens to accomplish this important task, and both can be either direct to the exterior or recirculating. The most common forms of kitchen ventilation are above-range microwaves and vent hoods. Typically (but not always) vent hoods expel air to the exterior and above-range microwaves provide recirculating ventilation. In both cases, the venting equipment contains a filter screen intended to trap cooking residue as it is drawn upwards, and the screens – like all filters – need to be cleaned periodically to function well.

Fortunately, microwaves and vent hoods both usually have multiple fan speeds, so you can adjust the power of ventilation to suit your cooking needs (low or medium when boiling water and high when cooking a steak on the stovetop, for example).

While either method of ventilation works, venting directly to the exterior is preferred so the air is removed from the interior of the home. This is much easier when the range (stove) is against an exterior wall, and ventilation often proves difficult when a range is centrally located in a kitchen.

If you don’t know whether your kitchen ventilation is recirculating or direct to the exterior, you can easily find out. If a vent hood is present on the exterior behind where the range is located, your kitchen air is almost certainly vented to the outside. If you have a microwave above your range, you can put your hand above the top front portion of the microwave. If the microwave is providing recirculating ventilation, you will feel air coming out the top.

Likewise, if the air is vented to the exterior there is typically square ducting above the vent hood or in the cabinetry above the microwave or vent hood.

If you aren’t already familiar with your kitchen’s ventilation system or don’t know if it is properly ventilated, take the time to check based on the guidelines of this article. If you don’t have adequate ventilation, make getting it installed a priority. If ventilation exists, ensure you are cleaning the filter screens on your above-range microwave or vent hood as often as needed.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com

I recently inspected a home in an urban area, and the client asked me if he would be able to burn a fire in the backyard. This question is well beyond the scope of a home inspection, but I figured I’d take a moment to answer the question in this article since many people who live in an urban area may also wonder if burning a fire is permissible.

Of course, burning fires in rural areas (the “country”) is commonplace and no one questions if it’s allowed. When you live within city limits, though, things are a little less obvious.

You may be surprised to learn that in many jurisdictions you are permitted to burn fires, but there are generally certain requirements in place to ensure safety and harmony with your neighbors. Typically, fires within city limits must be contained. In a nutshell, this means that the typical dug pit surrounded by pavers or blocks is not sufficient. Instead, a screen is often required to prevent embers from escaping the contained area of the fire. Likewise, the fire should usually be at least 15 feet from the house, outbuildings, tree limbs, and other flammable items to prevent an accidental fire hazard. In most areas, you are required to have a way of putting the fire out readily available while the fire is burning (water, fire extinguisher, sand, etc.), and the fire cannot be left unattended. Along those lines, evening or nighttime fires must be put out before the homeowner goes to bed.

In some cases, owners of city homes simply do not have sufficient yard space to meet minimum clearance requirements for open fires and, unfortunately, just can’t legally burn them. If you do have enough yard space you may be in luck, depending on your local requirements and your adherence to them.

All of that being said, there is still one factor that can deter your ability to burn a fire if you don’t live in the county… neighbors. Even if you have a properly contained fire that is constantly attended, far enough from flammable exterior materials, and have a means of putting out the fire readily available, you may still be asked to not burn a fire if it bothers your neighbors. Unlike rural homes that are typically spaced far apart, urban homes are usually very close to each other. Smoke can easily be a nuisance to some nearby neighbors – especially if inhaling or smelling smoke causes them to be irritated in some way or to have an adverse reaction.

Don’t assume that if you live in an urban area you are completely forbidden from burning a fire in your own yard. But before you do, be sure to consult your local authorities to find out what rules exist for doing so, and be sure to follow those rules carefully. It may also be a good idea to discuss your plans with your neighbors beforehand so they know your intentions and you know their feelings before you embark on a desire that may quickly be “extinguished.”

To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com

Mobile homes have gained in popularity in recent times, in part because they are cost-effective, and in part because their quality has improved. Not only that, but mobile and manufactured homes offer a nearly unlimited variety of choices for finishing materials to suit almost anyone’s taste.

Contrary to popular belief, the terms “mobile home” and “manufactured home” are not synonymous, despite the fact that many people use the terms interchangeably. Both are prefabricated (AKA “pre-fab”), meaning they are built in a climate controlled factory and are then delivered to a site for permanent location. But while mobile homes are built in accordance with local building codes, manufactured homes are built in accordance with federal codes. While the criteria may be similar, region specific codes are often not identical to federal requirements since each region requires different building methods to withstand the typical temperature extremes, wind loads, frost depths and other natural factors related to that region. A home here in Pennsylvania requires much more insulation than one in Florida, for example. Here in PA full basements are the norm, whereas in Virginia (a milder climate) crawlspaces are more prevalent.

Fortunately, mobile and manufactured homes are built to comply with modern building codes and are thoroughly checked several times in the factory throughout the building process. At a minimum, this helps ensure that they are able to withstand normal weather conditions, loads, etc. However, they are built with lightweight materials and are often not capable of withstanding the more extreme stresses that most stick built homes can handle.

As a general rule, the materials used to construct mobile or manufactured homes are not as durable as those used to build traditional homes. And while some mobile homes get placed on a permanent foundation to add to their structural integrity, many are placed on above-grade piers or other supports which allows frost heave to affect the structure and makes it more prone to wind related movement, shifting, and other forms of environmental damage.

Likewise, the interior components are generally not as durable in a mobile or manufactured home. Thin wall panels are typically used for wall covering instead of thicker drywall. Again, as a general rule the materials are thinner and lighter than those used in traditionally constructed homes.

When considering whether or not to purchase a mobile home, there are certainly many factors to consider. The normal climate conditions in your area are a big factor; but cost, customization, durability, and many other considerations play a big role. The risk in purchasing a mobile or manufactured home by current standards is not as high as that of purchasing an older pre-fab home – especially if it is secured to a permanent foundation – but it is certainly still riskier than purchasing a traditional stick built home. That being said, a well constructed pre-fab home may, in fact, hold up and suit the needs of certain homeowners depending on individual needs, desires and circumstances.

In any case, if you are considering purchasing a mobile or manufactured home, you should definitely have it inspected by a qualified home inspector prior to making the investment. An inspection is all the more important when the property is more prone to potential defects.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com

Most would-be homeowners aren’t aware of what, exactly, a general home inspection does and doesn’t cover. This is why good home inspectors take time to thoroughly explain the Standards of Practice for home inspections to clients who hire us and to set clear expectations upfront. The Standards of Practice (or “SOP”) define what, at minimum, we are required to inspect and not inspect as part of a home inspection. Virtually all home inspectors go beyond the Standards of Practice to provide a worthwhile inspection, but there are a few things that are specifically excluded… and for good reason.

Asbestos, mold, lead, radon gas and other contaminants are specifically excluded from general home inspections, and clients are occasionally confused as to why. I’d like to provide some clarification as to the reason so you have a thorough understanding and know what to expect.

Each contaminant really deserves its own entire article, but I don’t wish to go that deep so I’ll provide a blanket statement to cover them all. Contaminants that can potentially cause adverse health effects are excluded for several reasons. First, a general home inspection is visual and non-invasive. This means that the inspector is not tearing things apart, opening up walls, snaking or scoping through plumbing lines, etc. If it can’t be seen or accessed with relative ease and safety, it is not required to be inspected – period.

This fact, alone, greatly limits an inspector’s ability to uncover contaminants because they may be hidden behind walls, concealed by layers of paint or finishing materials, and so forth. Second, disclosing a possible contaminant in one location opens up the inspector to additional liability. A client could argue that since the inspector was able to identify old tape around a furnace flue as asbestos, he or she should have also been able to identify the asbestos floor and ceiling tiles in the house. If an inspector reports on a contaminant in one area, it could be argued that he/she should have been able to identify it in other areas as well. So by disclosing a contaminant in one area, the inspector opens him or herself up to additional scrutiny.

In reality, while many contaminants are relatively easy to identify by experienced inspectors, not all are – especially when they are not readily accessible. Furthermore, just because something appears to be a contaminant doesn’t mean it definitely is. Often times, testing is the only way to conclusively determine whether something is, in fact, a contaminant.

Additional liability necessitates additional risk and, therefore, additional expense to make the risk worthwhile. It’s for this reason that home inspectors inspect for contaminants separately and require an additional signed contract and fee for the separate inspection. Some inspectors don’t inspect for contaminants outside the Standards of Practice at all, but those who do should be trained and certified to do so and will generally require that the contaminants be inspected separately.

Having to sign a separate agreement and pay an additional fee may seem excessive, but in reality it is beneficial for both the client and the inspector. It benefits the inspector by providing protection against additional risk (both legally and monetarily), but it also benefits the client because a separate agreement and fee means a thorough and detailed analysis of the contaminant(s) being tested. Rather than being lumped in with the many other systems and components of the home, contaminants are given special and detailed attention.

That being said, inspectors often report on obvious contaminants; but the language used to disclose them in the home inspection report will generally be rather vague for the liability reasons I already discussed. Instead of stating that mold was present, an inspector may write that an area appeared to be covered with “microbial growth.” This is a more safe and all-encompassing term that disclosed the presence of apparent organic matter but doesn’t specifically identify it as mold, mildew, etc. Likewise, the inspector may state that a material “appears” to “possibly” be asbestos in an effort to make the client aware without conclusively stating that the material is, in fact, asbestos. By not stating something as a fact, the inspector can rightfully say they were not presenting it as a fact.

Another issue that makes contaminants especially tricky is that each one poses health risks in different ways, and some are rather time sensitive while others are not. For example, houses built after 1978 are not as likely to have lead based paint as houses built prior to that year, but elevated levels of radon gas can exist in any home whether it’s a hundred years old or brand new. With so many variables, each type of contaminant deserves (and really requires) its own dedicated testing to determine its presence or absence, severity, and the best course of action for possible mitigation/abatement.

In short, a general home inspection does not cover the several types of contaminants that may exist in a home, and this is partially due to increased liability but also the unique nature of each contaminant. Don’t expect your home inspection report to contain information on contaminants, but if you are concerned about any contaminants you can pay to have them tested for separately. Just be sure that whoever completes the inspection(s) is trained and qualified to do so.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com