Sump Pump Selection: What Size, Type & Backup System Do You Need?

I recently inspected a home in an urban area, and the client asked me if he would be able to burn a fire in the backyard. This question is well beyond the scope of a home inspection, but I figured I’d take a moment to answer the question in this article since many people who live in an urban area may also wonder if burning a fire is permissible.

Of course, burning fires in rural areas (the “country”) is commonplace and no one questions if it’s allowed. When you live within city limits, though, things are a little less obvious.

You may be surprised to learn that in many jurisdictions you are permitted to burn fires, but there are generally certain requirements in place to ensure safety and harmony with your neighbors. Typically, fires within city limits must be contained. In a nutshell, this means that the typical dug pit surrounded by pavers or blocks is not sufficient. Instead, a screen is often required to prevent embers from escaping the contained area of the fire. Likewise, the fire should usually be at least 15 feet from the house, outbuildings, tree limbs, and other flammable items to prevent an accidental fire hazard. In most areas, you are required to have a way of putting the fire out readily available while the fire is burning (water, fire extinguisher, sand, etc.), and the fire cannot be left unattended. Along those lines, evening or nighttime fires must be put out before the homeowner goes to bed.

In some cases, owners of city homes simply do not have sufficient yard space to meet minimum clearance requirements for open fires and, unfortunately, just can’t legally burn them. If you do have enough yard space you may be in luck, depending on your local requirements and your adherence to them.

All of that being said, there is still one factor that can deter your ability to burn a fire if you don’t live in the county… neighbors. Even if you have a properly contained fire that is constantly attended, far enough from flammable exterior materials, and have a means of putting out the fire readily available, you may still be asked to not burn a fire if it bothers your neighbors. Unlike rural homes that are typically spaced far apart, urban homes are usually very close to each other. Smoke can easily be a nuisance to some nearby neighbors – especially if inhaling or smelling smoke causes them to be irritated in some way or to have an adverse reaction.

Don’t assume that if you live in an urban area you are completely forbidden from burning a fire in your own yard. But before you do, be sure to consult your local authorities to find out what rules exist for doing so, and be sure to follow those rules carefully. It may also be a good idea to discuss your plans with your neighbors beforehand so they know your intentions and you know their feelings before you embark on a desire that may quickly be “extinguished.”

To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com

Mobile homes have gained in popularity in recent times, in part because they are cost-effective, and in part because their quality has improved. Not only that, but mobile and manufactured homes offer a nearly unlimited variety of choices for finishing materials to suit almost anyone’s taste.

Contrary to popular belief, the terms “mobile home” and “manufactured home” are not synonymous, despite the fact that many people use the terms interchangeably. Both are prefabricated (AKA “pre-fab”), meaning they are built in a climate controlled factory and are then delivered to a site for permanent location. But while mobile homes are built in accordance with local building codes, manufactured homes are built in accordance with federal codes. While the criteria may be similar, region specific codes are often not identical to federal requirements since each region requires different building methods to withstand the typical temperature extremes, wind loads, frost depths and other natural factors related to that region. A home here in Pennsylvania requires much more insulation than one in Florida, for example. Here in PA full basements are the norm, whereas in Virginia (a milder climate) crawlspaces are more prevalent.

Fortunately, mobile and manufactured homes are built to comply with modern building codes and are thoroughly checked several times in the factory throughout the building process. At a minimum, this helps ensure that they are able to withstand normal weather conditions, loads, etc. However, they are built with lightweight materials and are often not capable of withstanding the more extreme stresses that most stick built homes can handle.

As a general rule, the materials used to construct mobile or manufactured homes are not as durable as those used to build traditional homes. And while some mobile homes get placed on a permanent foundation to add to their structural integrity, many are placed on above-grade piers or other supports which allows frost heave to affect the structure and makes it more prone to wind related movement, shifting, and other forms of environmental damage.

Likewise, the interior components are generally not as durable in a mobile or manufactured home. Thin wall panels are typically used for wall covering instead of thicker drywall. Again, as a general rule the materials are thinner and lighter than those used in traditionally constructed homes.

When considering whether or not to purchase a mobile home, there are certainly many factors to consider. The normal climate conditions in your area are a big factor; but cost, customization, durability, and many other considerations play a big role. The risk in purchasing a mobile or manufactured home by current standards is not as high as that of purchasing an older pre-fab home – especially if it is secured to a permanent foundation – but it is certainly still riskier than purchasing a traditional stick built home. That being said, a well constructed pre-fab home may, in fact, hold up and suit the needs of certain homeowners depending on individual needs, desires and circumstances.

In any case, if you are considering purchasing a mobile or manufactured home, you should definitely have it inspected by a qualified home inspector prior to making the investment. An inspection is all the more important when the property is more prone to potential defects.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com

Most would-be homeowners aren’t aware of what, exactly, a general home inspection does and doesn’t cover. This is why good home inspectors take time to thoroughly explain the Standards of Practice for home inspections to clients who hire us and to set clear expectations upfront. The Standards of Practice (or “SOP”) define what, at minimum, we are required to inspect and not inspect as part of a home inspection. Virtually all home inspectors go beyond the Standards of Practice to provide a worthwhile inspection, but there are a few things that are specifically excluded… and for good reason.

Asbestos, mold, lead, radon gas and other contaminants are specifically excluded from general home inspections, and clients are occasionally confused as to why. I’d like to provide some clarification as to the reason so you have a thorough understanding and know what to expect.

Each contaminant really deserves its own entire article, but I don’t wish to go that deep so I’ll provide a blanket statement to cover them all. Contaminants that can potentially cause adverse health effects are excluded for several reasons. First, a general home inspection is visual and non-invasive. This means that the inspector is not tearing things apart, opening up walls, snaking or scoping through plumbing lines, etc. If it can’t be seen or accessed with relative ease and safety, it is not required to be inspected – period.

This fact, alone, greatly limits an inspector’s ability to uncover contaminants because they may be hidden behind walls, concealed by layers of paint or finishing materials, and so forth. Second, disclosing a possible contaminant in one location opens up the inspector to additional liability. A client could argue that since the inspector was able to identify old tape around a furnace flue as asbestos, he or she should have also been able to identify the asbestos floor and ceiling tiles in the house. If an inspector reports on a contaminant in one area, it could be argued that he/she should have been able to identify it in other areas as well. So by disclosing a contaminant in one area, the inspector opens him or herself up to additional scrutiny.

In reality, while many contaminants are relatively easy to identify by experienced inspectors, not all are – especially when they are not readily accessible. Furthermore, just because something appears to be a contaminant doesn’t mean it definitely is. Often times, testing is the only way to conclusively determine whether something is, in fact, a contaminant.

Additional liability necessitates additional risk and, therefore, additional expense to make the risk worthwhile. It’s for this reason that home inspectors inspect for contaminants separately and require an additional signed contract and fee for the separate inspection. Some inspectors don’t inspect for contaminants outside the Standards of Practice at all, but those who do should be trained and certified to do so and will generally require that the contaminants be inspected separately.

Having to sign a separate agreement and pay an additional fee may seem excessive, but in reality it is beneficial for both the client and the inspector. It benefits the inspector by providing protection against additional risk (both legally and monetarily), but it also benefits the client because a separate agreement and fee means a thorough and detailed analysis of the contaminant(s) being tested. Rather than being lumped in with the many other systems and components of the home, contaminants are given special and detailed attention.

That being said, inspectors often report on obvious contaminants; but the language used to disclose them in the home inspection report will generally be rather vague for the liability reasons I already discussed. Instead of stating that mold was present, an inspector may write that an area appeared to be covered with “microbial growth.” This is a more safe and all-encompassing term that disclosed the presence of apparent organic matter but doesn’t specifically identify it as mold, mildew, etc. Likewise, the inspector may state that a material “appears” to “possibly” be asbestos in an effort to make the client aware without conclusively stating that the material is, in fact, asbestos. By not stating something as a fact, the inspector can rightfully say they were not presenting it as a fact.

Another issue that makes contaminants especially tricky is that each one poses health risks in different ways, and some are rather time sensitive while others are not. For example, houses built after 1978 are not as likely to have lead based paint as houses built prior to that year, but elevated levels of radon gas can exist in any home whether it’s a hundred years old or brand new. With so many variables, each type of contaminant deserves (and really requires) its own dedicated testing to determine its presence or absence, severity, and the best course of action for possible mitigation/abatement.

In short, a general home inspection does not cover the several types of contaminants that may exist in a home, and this is partially due to increased liability but also the unique nature of each contaminant. Don’t expect your home inspection report to contain information on contaminants, but if you are concerned about any contaminants you can pay to have them tested for separately. Just be sure that whoever completes the inspection(s) is trained and qualified to do so.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com

It’s not uncommon for me to come across electrical panels that have some corrosion. This is especially common in older panels or panels located in basements or garages (which encompasses most panels in my area) because these panels are typically more exposed to moisture that can lead to oxidation, and time always takes its toll. Oxidation is the loss of electrons due to a chemical reaction with oxygen; and since electricity is composed of electrons, this translates to higher resistance. Simply put, oxidation leads to corrosion (“rust”) which leads to less electrons and higher resistance. The higher the resistance to the electrical current, the greater the risk for an electrical hazard.

I often see corrosion on the surface of panel covers or breakers, but a greater concern is corrosion on the lugs (screws) or the conductors themselves. If these metal parts become corroded – and, therefore, cause greater resistance – the wires have decreased capacity for carrying electrons (current), which can lead to arcing, sparks and other fire or shock hazards.

Corrosion on any electrical panel is never a good sign, but it is particularly concerning when the actual lugs or conductors are corroded. You can’t see these parts without removing the panel cover, and this is something you shouldn’t do if you aren’t experienced and competent.

Before removing a cover, we inspectors quickly tap the cover with the back of our hand and/or test the cover with a voltage pen to ensure it is safe to remove. After unscrewing the cover, we carefully pull the cover straight off to avoid accidentally touching the main disconnect or any breakers since we don’t want to accidentally shut off power to the entire house or any circuits. If you’re doing this on your own, though, it’s a good idea to ensure safety by shutting off the main before even removing the panel.

If you see corrosion on any metal components or fairly substantial corrosion on other parts of the panel, you should call a qualified electrician to have your panel professionally evaluated. A good electrician should be able to tell you with relative ease how great of a risk your panel is in its condition and what steps (if any) should be taken to remedy any corrosion problems.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com

Before I begin writing about the main topic of this post, I’d like to recognize a good friend of mine who has greatly contributed to my learning and experience over the years. In fact, he is the one who first made me aware of the importance of electrical panels being properly balanced, which I wrote about in the previous post; and from time to time I still give him a call to pick his brain about things I come across that are out of the ordinary but I know he has likely had experience with. His name is Greg Farlee, and he is a contractor from my hometown of Marion, Ohio. He works solo under his own name (Farlee Contracting) and is one of those “seen it all, done it all” contractors who isn’t afraid of anything he comes across in a home… and it is a shame that we no longer live close to each other. If we did, I’d be recommending him often. If you are reading this and happen to live in the central Ohio area, Greg is the guy you should call!

I wrote in an earlier post some time back about how I learned a good bit early on by shadowing a nephew/uncle contracting duo, and Greg was the nephew in that pair (although he now works alone since he and his uncle are both older). If you have the opportunity to learn from others with vast experience, take it and be sure to express your gratitude!

That being said, let’s move on to the matter at hand – well flow testing on your own. Flow tesing isn’t usually necessary when you have a public water supply because a large treatment plant generally supplies safe water at sufficient pressure. When you have a private well things are quite different, and it’s not a bad idea to make sure your water flow/pressure is sufficient for your household and family needs.

Water flow rates are typically measured in gallons per minute (gpm), and different fixtures average different rates depending on their intended function. Typical flow rates for different fixtures and appliances are as follows: Faucets: 2.5 – 3 gpm, Toilets: 2.2 – 5 gpm, Bathtubs: 4 – 8 gpm, Shower Heads: 2.5 – 5 gpm, Dishwashers: 2 – 3 gpm, Washing Machines: 4 – 5 gpm.

While these ranges are typical, many modern units have been designed for greater efficiency and use less water than the averages listed above. Before conducting a simple do-it-yourself well flow test, you should be familiar with the manufacturer’s information regarding each unit’s normal water usage rate. Often times, the rate is listed on the unit.

So how, exactly, can you do this simple test? Well, as always, hiring a certified inspector/tester is the best way to ensure you get accurate results; but there is a simple way to get a rough idea of the well flow on your own. If you have a 5-gallon bucket or jug, pour one gallon of water at a time into the container and mark the container with a marker at the top of each one-gallon water mark so that each gallon is marked and easy to identify for measuring. You can draw marks between each gallon mark as well to represent half gallons and make your measurements more precise. After marking the container, run water from one fixture at a time into the container. Start a stop watch on your wrist watch or smart phone at the exact moment you turn on the water. At one minute exactly, pull the bucket or jug away from the fixture and shut the water off. Check the water level in your container. The level is the amount of water – measured in gallons – that the fixture put out in one minute (the gpm rate).

If you are testing something like a bathtub that may put out more than 5 gallons per minute, you can simply use two 5-gallon containers and immediately swap out the first container with the second when the first fills up.

Your well system is set up so that once the pressurized water in the house has been used (forced through the system by the well pressure tank) the submersible well pump is signaled to pump more water into the house. As a result, the pressure may drop some while you are testing the flow rate since the water takes some time to get from the deep well into your home. The size of your system, distance of piping runs, and horsepower of your pump all effect how long your water can consistently run at one time with the same pressure.

If you conduct a simple flow test on your own and discover that your water pressure is lower than it should be, consult a reputable well drilling company to evaluate your system and make any necessary alterations. Fixing flow problems is often easier and less costly than you might think since well companies are often contracted with homes and have a vested interest in maintaining their systems.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com