Author: hillinspections

At Hill Property Inspections LLC, we proudly provide all of our home inspection clients with a free, zero deductible 90-day home warranty through a separate company called Residential Warranty Services (RWS). The warranty is good for 90 days from the date of inspection, or 22 days after closing on the property – whichever comes later. We automatically enroll all of our home inspection clients in the warranty, so they do not have to do any tedious paperwork at all. Home inspectors nationwide have started offering similar warranties as a bonus to valued clients in order to provide exceptional customer service and much needed protection.

Recently, I was surprised when a real estate agent told me, “All the other home inspectors I deal with guarantee their work just like you, so your warranty is no different and is not a big selling point.” Upon hearing this, I realized that the agent didn’t understand what a home warranty actually is (since other home inspectors nearby aren’t offering warranties and home inspection companies are legally prohibited from offering them); and if a realtor doesn’t understand the value of this benefit, ordinary home buyers definitely can’t be expected to understand! So, I’d like to take a brief moment to describe home warranties and the importance of hiring a home inspection company that provides them through a partner company so you know you are getting the protection you deserve!

First, a “guarantee” is not at all the same thing as a warranty. Of course, all of us who provide inspection services stand by, and therefore “guarantee,” the findings in our inspection reports. After all, we are legally liable for what we do or do not report at the time of inspection, so our expert opinion is, by nature, “guaranteed.” Standing by our findings, though, does not at all guarantee repair or replacement of any defective components of the inspected property. It simply means that we are confident in our ability to find and recognize defects in a home. There are many safeguards in place to protect inspectors from having to pay to repair defects since any component of a home can unexpectedly fail at any time. No home buyer would expect a home inspector to pay for the repair or replacement of a defective component that was functioning properly at the time of their inspection but developed a problem later.

So what, exactly, is a home warranty? A home warranty is a paid contract that provides additional protection to YOU, the home buyer. Like other warranties, it covers the repair or replacement of components of the home that become defective within a specified timeframe. We’ve all purchased warranties for different items, so most people understand this basic concept. Since warranties must be paid for, someone has to foot the bill; and at HPI we pay for the warranty on behalf of our clients as a courtesy and a gesture of appreciation for their business.

Not everything is protected, or “covered,” by the home warranty, though. The warranty we provide at HPI through RWS does not cover anything listed as a defect in our inspection report since the client knows about the issue(s) before purchasing the property. You could think of these things in insurance terms as “pre-existing conditions.” It also doesn’t cover certain appliances not listed in the warranty or any appliance over ten years old, since they have outlived their normal life expectancy by that point. Nearly everything else – structural, mechanical, electrical, plumbing, roofing, HVAC, and so forth – is covered and will be corrected by a qualified contractor, completely free of charge, within 72 hours of filing a claim.

Many people opt to purchase an even more comprehensive and longer lasting home warranty. These warranties cover more items and are typically in effect for at least a year, if not longer. If you are selling a home and dealing with a reputable real estate agency, there is a chance you may be covered by the agency during the listing period with a seller’s warranty to protect you in case anything goes wrong while you’re attempting to sell your home. This point raises the importance of doing your research when deciding what agency to use and the value they offer when you’re planning to sell your home. In any case (whether buying or selling), it is wise to be sure that you have a warranty in place to protect your investment.

Home warranties with longer terms often come with a fairly high price tag, as you might imagine. They are typically several hundred dollars, at minimum. If you hire a home inspector who offers a free short-term home warranty through a partner company like we do, you at least have added protection for some length of time and will likely get the warranty without having to pay a dime or do a bit of paperwork. The fact that home warranties are quite costly also tells you how likely it is that something may go wrong and that you may need the protection. Often times, homeowners encounter problems shortly after moving into a new home, so a 90-day home warranty can certainly be a major blessing.

As you can see, all services are NOT created equal. A guarantee of the findings on a home inspection report won’t help you one bit if and when you need an item in your new home repaired or replaced. A free home warranty, on the other hand, provides you with just that, giving you added peace of mind at a stressful time when you’re making a huge, long-term investment. The old phrase “put your money where your mouth is” is something that we inspectors who provide home warranties to our clients actually DO!

Before hiring a home inspector, ask if he or she provides a free home warranty through another company. If you choose to not spend a good amount of money on a longer term home warranty, this is especially important to give you the protection you need upon first taking possession of your new home. Understand that no home inspection company offers an actual warranty and that their “guaranteed” statements are simply findings that the expert inspector had reported at the exact time of inspection and is willing to stand by despite the fact that anything could go wrong with the home at any time.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com

We all admire stately trees that add character and a sense of grandeur to properties. Large trees are typically very old and have a story all their own that likely dates back before the house even existed on the land.

Despite their grandeur and beauty, though, large trees are unfortunately a potential hazard to many homes. Their roots can grow very large and widespread underground, pressing against the foundation and causing structural damage over time. Their long limbs can extend out over roofs, sometimes touching the roof surface, and causing damage from continual friction or impact if they fall off. It’s hard to believe, but even very large trees can fall over in a bad storm – especially if the tree is dead or has other rot or damage.

As a general rule, tree limbs should be kept 10 feet or farther from a roof’s surface. Ideally, the limbs would not overhang the roof at all. While it is easy to see a tree’s limbs, however, it is not so easy to see or determine how large or far-spread its root system is. If a large tree sits very close to the structure, you can be sure its roots are likely very close to (if not in direct contact with) the foundation.

If your property contains a large tree near your house, you should maintain its limbs, at the very least. Be sure they are no closer than 10 feet from the roof and that no limbs are overhanging the roof surface. While large trees are beautiful and add character, your safety and the integrity of your home are far more important.

You may find yourself in the unfortunate situation of having to consider removing the tree (or several trees) entirely. Like every living thing in life, they must come to an end at some point. If you find yourself in this situation, contact a reputable tree service that can assess the tree’s potential impact on the house and trim or remove it entirely, if necessary.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com

Many people – even some contractors – have a hard time deciding when it’s best to use nails or screws for certain applications. In this short post, I hope to set the record straight so that you (the reader) know the answer.

Nowadays, people tend to gravitate toward screws for most applications; and, indeed, developments in screws have produced some very appealing pieces of the popular hardware that make certain types of screws very appealing. I remember my first time driving a GRK screw into a board and being in shock at how effortlessly the screw went in. Still, nails do have their place, and understanding when to use nails or screws begins with understanding the pros and cons of each.

Nails possess more shear strength than screws. As a nail is twisted or bent it will withstand stress far longer than a screw will under the same force. For this reason, nails are a better option for the framing members of a structure because these members go through twisting and bending as the structure endures force from different directions over time.

Screws, however, possess more tensile strength than nails. Tensile strength refers to a fastener’s ability to remain attached to another component under pressure from tension. Think of two pieces pushed together, side-by-side. Screws used in combination with an adhesive are especially effective at holding components together.

Decks are a good example of where each type of fastener should be used. Nails should be used for the framing members, such as support posts, girders and joists, that will endure load from multiple angles, especially from downward force. Screws are a better option, though, for securing the decking boards to the underlying framing members as they will do a better job of keeping the boards attached to the support system beneath.

So, as a general rule, framing components should be secured with nails, and materials attached to framing members should be secured with screws. The bottom and top plates and studs of a wall are best secured with nails, but the plywood or OSB sheathing attached to the walls are best secured with screws. The trusses or rafters and ridge beam of a roof are best secured with nails, whereas the roof decking is best attached to those members with screws.

To determine the appropriate type and size of nails or screws, consult your local building codes. This information is easy to find and readily accessible.

Hopefully this post has helped you decipher the nails versus screws debate. Both have their place, and it’s important to know when to use each to have a well-built home that will withstand the many pressures exerted on it over time.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com

Floor joists often contain notches or bored holes to accommodate wiring, plumbing pipes and duct work. Unfortunately, notches and holes are not always done properly – especially in older homes – and in such cases the joists’ structural integrity may be compromised. In this article we will review the modern requirements for notches and holes in joists so you can evaluate your own for stability.

First of all, all joists have a maximum span based on the size, species of wood, and other factors. Span tables are easy to come by, and the architect who designed your home and the general contractor who built it should have ensured the proper joists were planned and used.

Assuming your joists are the appropriate size and wood species for their spans, we will focus on the general rules for holes and notches. In general, notching should not be done in the middle one-third of the joist. This is because the middle section is the most prone to bending under pressure and notching in this area reduces the joist’s strength in a crucial section. Holes are allowed in the middle, but they too should be avoided in the middle third whenever possible. If notching is done in the outer thirds, the notch should not be greater than one-sixth the depth of the joist. For example, if a joist is 2×10 (in which case its depth is actually closer to nine inches than ten), a notch should not exceed 1-1/2 inches, which is one-sixth of the 9” depth. For all notches, the notch should not be carved out in a square or rectangular shape as the 90-degree corners tend to cause cracking in the wood. Instead, the notch should have angled or rounded edges which perform better under stress from load.

Often times, notching must be done at the ends of joists at the top of foundation walls. This is permitted, but the notch depth at the ends should not exceed one-fourth the depth of the joist and the notch length (horizontally) should not exceed one-third the joist depth.

The rule for holes in joists is a bit more lenient than the rule for notching because removing sections of wood from the edges of joists compromises their strength more than removing wood near the center. Holes should have a diameter that is one-third the depth of the joist or less. In the same 9” deep 2×10 joist, any hole should be 3 inches in diameter, at most, which is one-third of the 9” depth. Of course, if the hole can accommodate what it needs to with a smaller diameter, it should be cut as small as possible to avoid compromising the joist’s strength more than necessary. Holes should generally be located near the middle of the joist’s depth and should be at least 2 inches from the top or bottom edge. Likewise, no notches or holes should be within 2 inches of other notches or holes. If you see several holes or notches in a small area and close to others, you know it’s likely a problem.

If you examine the joists in your home and notice any defects that do not follow the rules listed here, it may be possible to reinforce the compromised areas. It’s a good idea, however, to consult a qualified structural engineer in such cases to ensure your flooring system is structurally sound.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com

Every year many injuries, and even deaths, are reported as the result of failing decks. In most cases, these tragedies occur with higher decks that are elevated quite a ways off the ground and from excessive weight (load) being placed on the deck at one time. Higher decks obviously require more care in the design and building phases than decks that sit close to ground level. In this post, I will review some of the main safety and structural requirements for elevated decks so you can be sure your deck is safe and sound for your next family gathering.

First of all, your deck should be made of either treated lumber of composite decking. If you have hired a professional to construct your deck this point should not be an issue at all, but homeowners attempting to build their own deck as a DIY project may use dimensional lumber without knowing this information. Untreated dimensional lumber is not rated for exposure to the elements and will fail before long if used.

If the deck is 6 feet or higher off the ground, 6×6 posts should be used for support rather than 4x4s, and cross bracing (angled bracing) should be used to increase lateral stability and prevent sway. The posts should rest on or be imbedded in concrete piers that extend below the frost line, and this depth varies depending on your region and climate zone. This will ensure that the deck is not affected by frost heave as the ground freezes and thaws with seasonal weather changes. Ideally, the concrete piers will extend several inches above ground so the wood posts are not in direct contact with soil.

A deck can either be attached to the house as part of the structure, or unattached, in which case it is referred to as a “floating” deck because it stands on its own. In my personal opinion, floating decks are the better option because they prevent several common issues associated with attached decks; but since attached decks are still more common I will focus on them here.

Decks attached to the house are attached by what’s called a ledger board. Unfortunately, ledger boards are hardly ever installed properly, and defects with ledger boards are a main cause of deck failures. First, the ledger board should be at least a 2×8 and should be attached with appropriate weather-rated fasteners (such as 1/2” or larger thru bolts) that extend fully through the board and rim joist. Proper location and spacing of bolts is essential to provide adequate support of the ledger board and prevent it from pulling away from the structure. Z flashing should be installed at the ledger board to direct water away from the structure and prevent rot of the wood. In my experience, it is unfortunately not too common to see all of these requirements in place and done properly.

Deck joists, like traditional floor joists, should be hung on the ends with joist hangers, and they should typically be spaced 16 inches on-center (O.C.) just like regular joists. The actual deck boards should span far distances as solid pieces, and short pieces of board should not be used. Installing deck boards perpendicular to joists is the easiest method, but installing them at a diagonal increases stability and adds visual appeal. In addition, a small gap should exist between the deck boards to allow for expansion and contraction and adequate drainage of water from the deck’s surface.

If the deck is intended to support large groups of people or heavy objects like a hot tub, extra support will likely be needed to support the additional load. Joists may need to be doubled and/or additional posts may be needed under the area where a hot tub will be, for example. A structural engineer should be consulted to ensure the deck design is suitable for supporting the intended load requirements.

Deck stairs often have many problems as well, but two of the most common are open risers and improper handrails. Risers that are greater than 4 inches high (and they almost always are) should not be open. They should have a board in place, just like an interior stairway. Likewise, a 2×6 handrail is not safe as it is too wide to be easily grasped if someone were to fall and needed to grab the railing quickly. The spindles, or balusters, of the railings should be no more than about 4 inches apart, which is yet another safety measure. Railings should be at least 36 inches high as a general rule, and if the deck is especially high, 42 inches (6” higher than the normal minimum) is preferred as a means of extra safety.

As you can see, deck construction comes with many stringent requirements, but they exist for good reason and help ensure safety. Given the many injuries and deaths that result from insecure, poorly built decks each year, it is a good idea to look over your deck (or better yet, have it professionally inspected) so you can rest at ease knowing it is stable and your family and friends will be safe.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com