Author: hillinspections

If your house is older, there’s a good chance your toilets sit on a cast iron flange. In the past, cast iron was commonly used for toilet flanges and waste piping, and a hemp type rope called oakum was leaded in by plumbers to seal joints and connect the flange and pipe. This was quite a job and, needless to say, it’s not practiced in modern times.

Over time, cast iron flanges tend to corrode, often to the point where entire sections have crumbled apart and are missing. This, of course, greatly diminishes the integrity of the flange, which is a crucial component since it connects the base of the toilet to the waste pipe.

Fortunately, the company Danco came out with a repair flange a while back that makes solving the problem of a deteriorated cast iron flange much easier to deal with. Now, instead of having to remove the old flange (which is quite a laborious task), the Danco repair flange is designed to simply be placed over the old flange and screwed directly to the subfloor. This raises the height of the flange, which requires that the wax ring placed on top of the flange be cut in half to create a proper watertight seal.

From my experience, this is the easiest route to go if you have an old, rotted out cast iron flange. I had to repair one of my own toilets this way a while back, and the job was easy and produced good, long lasting results. If your flange is in good condition, though, and you simply need a new wax ring, another fairly new product is a great option – a flexible waxless seal. These are gasket type seals that are typically green and offer a major advantage over traditional wax rings.

When it comes to wax rings, you generally get one shot at setting the toilet directly over the ring to create a sufficient seal. If you miss the mark, the wax ring can be ruined and unusable. Since the gasket is flexible and doesn’t have wax, it can be used repeatedly with no worries of setting the toilet perfectly the first time. In addition, the foul mess that’s always present when a wax ring needs replaced isn’t an issue with waxless seals. Wax rings are cheaper, but the minor cost difference for the waxless seals are well worth it in my opinion.

If you do have an older home, one or more of your toilets may be 10 inch instead of the now standard 12 inch size; and if you don’t want to bother having your drain piping relocated, you’ll need to purchase the correct size. To determine whether you have a 10 or 12 inch toilet, simply measure from the wall to one of the closet bolts, which are the bolts that are set in the flange on the floor and stick upright through either side of the toilet base to secure the toilet to the floor. The distance measured from the wall to the bolts is your toilet size.

It can be somewhat difficult to find 10 inch toilets now, but most stores stock at least one model and they can otherwise be special ordered. In any case, there have been some innovative products that have come out in recent years to make toilet repairs much easier, and it’s wise to take full advantage of them whenever that next toilet repair becomes necessary.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com

From time to time, I meet clients who are very concerned about mold. This is understandable given everything we’ve all heard and been told about “toxic” black mold and the many “dangerous” health issues mold can cause. While mold is certainly not good for anyone’s health, having mold in your home is generally not quite the cause for concern it’s often made out to be.

Mold spores are everywhere, but we don’t see them. They’re in the outdoor air, they enter our houses through windows, doors and crevices, they cling to clothing, pets, and other materials, and so on. Simply put, it’s not possible to breathe air or live in a home that is completely mold free.

Most people tend to become especially concerned when mold growth is visible. This occurs when mold spores attach to materials that have a high water content, which is often due to leaking, poor ventilation, condensation, flooding, and other similar water problems. Mold cannot grow without water, and most molds grow the easiest when humidity levels in the area are also high (60% or greater). For this reason, solving a mold problem begins at the source by identifying the cause of excess water/moisture and fixing the problem. Often times, simple solutions like running a dehumidifier can be helpful for decreasing moisture levels – especially when a major water problem doesn’t exist. Water damage has the potential to cause much more harm to a home than just mold – structural damage and a haven for pests, for example – and should always be dealt with immediately and properly.

The vast majority of mold spores are actually not very harmful to people. The most common symptoms associated with increased mold exposure mirror typical allergy symptoms, such as sneezing, itchy eyes and caugh. For this reason, people with severe allergies, upper respiratory diseases like asthma or COPD, or compromised immune symptoms are more likely to experience some sort of unfavorable reaction to mold than people who are generally healthy.

But I know what you’re thinking… what about the infamous black mold, Stachybotrys chartarum? Contrary to popular belief, no molds are “toxic” themselves; however, some mold strains can produce what are called myctoxins, and these molds are referred to as “toxigenic.” Stachybotrys is relatively rare and thrives best in environments with high levels of cellulose and low levels of nitrogen. Despite this fact, the Center for Disease Control (CDC) actually recommends treating all molds the same and not taking any extra precautions when removing them. In addition, HUD recommends that all homes being purchased be tested for mold.

If you do have a more major mold problem, chances are you will see and/or smell it. And despite the fact that most molds are not as threatening as they’ve been made out to be, it is still a good idea to have any visible mold professionally analyzed and remediated (removed). At times, this process can be quite extensive and costly. Visible surface mold on wood, drywall and other building materials can be cleaned fairly simply, but other materials are not as easy to treat. Moldy carpet, for example, generally needs to be replaced, and mold behind walls can only be accessed by tearing down and replacing the wall covering. Depending on the extent of the mold problem, remediation can last anywhere from several hours to several days. Needless to say, it’s a job best left to the pros.

In summary, most types of molds are not life threatening or overly concerning for most people. Spores are everywhere and we would normally never know. If you have a noticeable mold problem, remember that treating the water problem is the first step and that getting rid of the mold is not a DIY job. Don’t panic, but don’t allow mold to take over your home either.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com

In this article, I’ll review how often you should test or change some of the most common pieces of equipment in your home to ensure safety and good maintenance. It’s easy to forget about these items or to become neglectful, so hopefully this post will serve as a helpful reference tool.

Smoke and carbon monoxide detectors should be tested monthly. Most detectors can be tested by simply holding the test button for a few seconds; and while the batteries in battery powered units typically last quite a while, they can go bad before expected. Defective detectors pose a major safety risk, and periodically testing them (as well as ensuring they are located in all necessary areas) should be a “must” for every homeowner.

GFCI receptacles should also be tested monthly, and this is something many homeowners don’t think of doing. A GFCI outlet trips (shuts off) when a difference in current is detected, but they occasionally malfunction and fail to trip. To test your GFCI outlets, simply press the test button and make sure the outlet trips. After testing, simply press the reset button to reset the outlet. If an outlet malfunctions it should be replaced by a qualified electrician.

If you have a whole house water filter, it should generally be changed every three to six months. However, the manufcturer’s recommendation should be referenced, and other signs like darkening of the water or reduced water flow will indicate if the filter needs changed earlier than expected.

HVAC filters come in many types and sizes, and numerous factors – especially whether the home contains pets – will affect how often the filter needs cleaned or changed. However, checking the furnace filter every month is a good idea. If a thin layer of dirt/debris is present on the filter, it is time for maintenance.

Dryer lint traps should be cleaned after every load of laundry. Some homeowners do a great job with this, while others don’t clean the trap nearly as often as necessary. Dirty lint traps can easily cause fires, and getting in the habit of cleaning lint after every use is crucial. Besides the actual lint trap, it’s a good idea to also periodically check the exterior dryer vent cover to make sure no lint is trapped in the louvered opening.

It is a good idea to drain tank water heaters once a year if your water supply is public and twice a year if your water supply is a private well. Doing so removes sediment that settles at the bottom of the tank and will help ensure the water heater’s longevity.

Heating systems should be professionally serviced (cleaned and repaired if needed) every year by a qualified HVAC technician. This is all the more important for older systems. A good time for this servicing is in the fall, right before the heating season begins. Likewise, if you have a wood-burning fireplace it should be serviced each year by a qualified chimney sweep. In either case, be sure you keep a record of work performed that includes the date, the work done, and the professional’s name and contact information.

Last but not least, it is a good idea to have an annual home maintenance inspection performed by a certified home inspector. This inspection is comprehensive and invaluable because it provides you with a thorough overview as well as guidance for maintenance, repairs and possible upcoming issues that you would likely not know about on your own. And these inspections are often offered at a discounted rate as they are with companies like ours.

Be diligent about testing and changing these important components of your home as often as necessary to keep your home in a good state of repair and your family safe. Set reminders as needed, and perform the maintenance at the scheduled time rather than putting it off and risk forgetting.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com

Many homeowners know that preventing water intrusion and insulating well are key ingredients for a comfortable, quality and energy efficient home. What most homeowners aren’t aware of, though, is how important it is to also control vapor and air; and those who are aware often don’t know the order of importance for all four factors.

So here’s the order, and we’ll take a moment to review why the order is what it is: 1) Water 2) Air 3) Vapor 4) Insulation.

Now, most people would naturally place water control as number one. Water is, without a doubt, the number one enemy of a home. It can rot out wood (structure), destroy contents, lead to mold growth, invite pests, cause poor indoor air quality, and a whole slew of other problems very quickly. Water is such a threat to structure that the National Flood Insurance Program was created to help aid in flood damage repairs beyond basic homeowners insurance policies.

What isn’t so obvious is the order of the next three items on the list. Most people would place insulation as number two when, in fact, it falls in last place. That’s not to say insulation isn’t important (it’s very important), but it’s not quite as important as controlling air and vapor.

Most good insulation contractors and experts in building science push the importance of air sealing to a greater degree than insulation – especially in modern times after a lot of research has proven its importance. If the home is well insulated but not adequately air sealed, air can freely enter and leave the home through multiple points and much of the insulation becomes almost a waste.

Likewise, if a house controls water and air well but doesn’t control vapor, moisture related problems will develop over time, as well as poor indoor air quality. Vapor control is climate dependent (as is insulation), making it especially difficult to deal with properly. Vapor tends to migrate from the warm side of a wall to the cold side, and some regions are predominantly hot while others are predominantly cold. To complicate things further, the goal of vapor control is to prevent vapor intrusion, but that same prevention measure can also prevent vapor that does get in from escaping or quickly drying. When it comes to vapor control, be sure to discuss options with your contractor and his or her specific reasons for using a certain method in your climate.

Insulation is crucial, but the other three items on the list should be in place and done well in order for the insulation to perform optimally. A house that is fully air sealed but lacks in insulation will typically outperform a home that has plenty of insulation but no air sealing. And a house that controls air, vapor and thermal issues well but doesn’t protect well against water will deteriorate fairly quickly.

If you’re planning to invest in improving the quality, comfort and efficiency of your home, be sure to remember this order. Always control water first (even small leaks), then ensure the house is air sealed well, then make sure vapor is controlled, and finally ensure your insulation levels are sufficient. Do all four and you’ll have a sound, safe and comfortable home that is capable of withstanding natural forces for a very long time.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com

It goes without saying but is worth repeating: home inspections are limited to the state of a property at the time of inspection only. This means a very short couple or few hour timeframe in relation to the much, much longer (decades long) life of the home. Anything can go wrong with any of the many components of a home at any time, so it is important to remember that an inspection is a short snapshot to provide the client with a detailed and general overview at one specific time (usually shortly before the home is bought and sold).

One of many things that could go wrong after an inspection (that is especially alarming) is sewage backup. If you find yourself in the unfortunate situation of having a backup problem after your inspection and feel it’s something your inspector should have caught, I’d like to take a moment to address why backup often goes unnoticed during a general home inspection.

During an inspection, the inspector runs the water from individual fixtures and from multiple fixtures simultaneously to check for consistent water pressure/flow and verify that no backup issues are observed. By only running water through the drain piping, though, a backup issue may not be immediately apparent. Once a family moves into the house and starts using fixtures in a normal way, many additional things are forced down drains. Waste, toilet paper, food from a disposal, and numerous other materials get sent down drain piping – all of which do not (and cannot) be placed in the drains by the inspector.

Needless to say, these many additional items take up a lot more space than water alone, so if a backup issue exists it will often become evident much sooner to the homeowner than it would the inspector. Indeed, the backup may not be evident at all to the inspector without being able to introduce solid materials into the waste piping.

That being said, a good inspector will run water from fixtures long enough to ensure that if a major backup problem does exist it will be more likely to appear. Ask the inspector you are considering hiring how long he or she typically runs the water to ensure it is long enough to possibly observe backup. Consider also asking him or her for guidance regarding best practices for preventing backup problems (like not flushing inappropriate items as many people do).

So, understand the limitations of an inspection – especially regarding issues like sewage backup – and take time to ask questions and ensure your inspector is doing everything possible (within their limits) to identify defects. It is often not the inspector’s fault that backup wasn’t apparent at the time of inspection; but good inspectors will do the best they can to identify problems and educate their clients.

After you’ve moved in and started using the plumbing system in a more normal way, day after day, be sure to avoid common mistakes that can cause backup. Last but not least, always have the contact  information for a good plumber nearby in case you do run into a problem and need your waste piping repaired. Sewage backup is obviously not an issue that can wait to be remedied.

*To visit our main website, go to http://www.hillinspections.com